Hello, dear readers and DIY!
Many of You have a cottage, farmland or You simply love to relax in nature. One of the most common devices for cooking outdoors is the barbecue grill.
Of course, stationary grills are convenient for use only in your own backyard, but they also need protection from rain, or they will quickly rust and become unsightly.
While folding barbecue you can take with you on nature, or to remove from land in the room after use.
In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “Samodelki Vitmana” will tell You how he made foldable grill from a leaky 20-litre metal cans.
This project is fairly simple to manufacture, and do not require the use of the welding machine.
— An old 20-litre steel Jerry can
— Screws, nuts, washers M3, M12
— Rivet nut M12
— Door hinges
— Sheet steel, rebar, rod
— High-temperature spray enamel.
The tools used by the author.
— An angle grinder, cutting blade and grinding wheels
— Screwdriver, drilling machine
— Cobalt drill bits, lerka
— Sand blasting gun 90 psi
— Air compressor
— Vise, caliper, core, hammer, pliers.
The process of making.
The first thing the wizard clears the old canister from the paint using an air compressor with a sandblasting gun. Of course, not everyone in the garage has such a device and such a service can contact the service center.
You can also get rid of the paint and chemically, using special liquid-the wash.
On the side, closer to where the neck of the grinder cut a rectangular section.
The cut part should be retained, it will be useful in the future.
Burrs from the edges of removed flap sanding disc or a special knife.
The inner surface of the canister also painted this layer, the author decided to remove by calcination.
The body of the canister is usually made of cold-rolled mild steel grade 08KP thickness of 0,8-0,9 mm. Master considered it expedient to reinforce the wall by installing additional steel sheets with thickness 2 mm.
The first sheet, it cuts the same size as the cut section. The broad side is slightly bent.
On the corners of the sheet are marked, and holes are drilled with a diameter of 16 mm.
Author grind nuts M12 to that shape, set them in the holes, and tack welding.
Don’t worry, this is the only place where the master had to use it.
Not to bother with grinding the nuts and welding machine, it is possible to apply the rivet nuts. They will perfectly cope with its task.
The author then cut three more of the sheet to protect the side walls. All sheets are laid out the locations for the mounting holes.
Places drilling cernada and the workpiece apertures 3 mm in diameter.
In the end the master made 16 holes in the Board to the bottom, and eight in the side.
The shield is fixed to the inside of the cans with a magnet, then drill the screw in the canister holes for the legs. These holes should match with all four nuts on the shield.
Then the magnet is removed, the shield is temporarily fixed with four bolts M12.
The wizard then drills out the small return hole in the canister through the prepared holes in the shield.
Now the shield is connected to the housing cans of screws and nuts M3.
In a similar way set three side of the sheet.
The next step you need to make hinges for the lid. Two identical parts the author had to do it yourself. For this purpose he cuts out the steel strip, two l-shaped workpiece and bends one section at an angle of 90 degrees.
The resulting blanks are laid out and holes are drilled for mounting screws, and finger.
T-shaped door ring loop master cut into two parts. It drilled another hole for mounting.
The author increased the thumb hole in the improvised parts, and also drilled a hole on the end of a finger. All items are collected on the finger to put on two washers, and is inserted into the hole the cotter pin.
Now both hinges are fastened to the former bottom of the canister.
The master had to do in case two of the slots for the hinges so that they were under a 90 degree angle in the open position.
To the top of the casing are screwed with two such plates, they will not let the lid “fall” when it is closed.
Further, in the lid are drilled holes, and bolted the second halves of the loops.
To lock the cover in the closed position, the author has prepared and tightened two of the retainer. In combination with the limiters they will rigidly lock the cover.
To use the cover as a table (in open position), you will need the U-shaped prop made of wire and two loops from the latches.
Backup mounted in the Central portion of the cover by tabs.
At the bottom of the cap is screwed simple lock for backup.
Now, open the lid, the prop rests on the edge of the seam on the bottom of the canister.
This table may be able to withstand a bowl of ready barbecue.
The legs of the grill were made of conventional reinforcement, one end of which the master tapped M12.
The whole structure is ready and only have to apply it a couple of layers of heat-resistant spray enamel. Some types of such paints can withstand temperatures up to 1000 degrees.
Here is the cover in an open position, and installed the strut.
The author has made from a steel wire and a crowbar that fits inside the grill.
At the bottom of the sides of the grill master also drilled some air holes.
Unfortunately he didn’t tell, can this grill be used in the form of the smokehouse (for example, closing the lid and opening the mouth).
Folded grill is easy, just close and lock the cover, snap a backup, and Unscrew the legs.
Very roomy interior space of the barbecue can be used for skewers, pokers, leg, pack of charcoal and lighter fluid.
This kit can be stored in it, and the grill is always stocked.
I thank the author for a master class on making fancy grill of iron cans!
All good mood, sound health, and interesting ideas!
The author’s video can be found here.
Hello, dear readers and DIY!