Feria de Mataderos is a street market cacophony. Women deep-frying empanadas over wood-fired cauldrons. Vendors hawking steak knives. Men bustling to offer treats from trays of skewered candied figs and bowls of budino di pane, a sweet bread pudding. And the soundtrack to it all — from an unremarkable hall in a far-flung corner of the former slaughter yard — the sounds of boldly dressed couples stomping the tango.
It’s a scene repeated at markets across Buenos Aires, a delicious and melodic reminder of Spain’s lingering influence in Argentina. At the upscale Mercado de San Telmo, another reminder: impeccably good tapas served alongside frost-crusted glasses of sweet vermouth decanted from towering bottles layered with orange slices.