Fregola: The easiest homemade pasta

Chiesa del Santo Sepolcro is a church divided. Wedged into one of Cagliari’s many steep and sweeping hills that tug the Sardinian capital toward the Tyrrhenian Sea, the weathered stone exterior betrays little of the give-and-take that plays out inside. Only a waft of freshly baked bread, a hint of garlic and fresh herbs, suggest something unusual.

Beyond the entry, two-in-one churches blur and break. To the right, pews and an altar for Roman Catholics, the medieval building’s first inhabitants. Directly ahead, bold and gilded with icons, space for Eastern Orthodox congregants. A divided solution to a shared problem — keeping a church alive in an era of dwindling attendance.


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