The minute peaches are elbowed out of the way by apples at the farmers’ market, my summer reverie is interrupted by thoughts of Thanksgiving. As a professional pie baker who discreetly waves goodbye to each pie as it leaves the bakery, I take my job seriously. Most years, more than 600 pies cross the baker’s bench on the day before Thanksgiving. This year, the approaching holiday season feels as upended as a tarte tatin. My guess is that pie sales will be brisk despite the uncertainty of gathering. One thing remains constant: Pie makes us feel better.
Except for July 4 (which this baker dubs Thanksgiving Junior) pie distinguishes Thanksgiving from all other holidays.