I make 600 pies each Thanksgiving — here’s what I’ve learned along the way

The minute peaches are elbowed out of the way by apples at the farmers’ market, my summer reverie is interrupted by thoughts of Thanksgiving. As a professional pie baker who discreetly waves goodbye to each pie as it leaves the bakery, I take my job seriously. Most years, more than 600 pies cross the baker’s bench on the day before Thanksgiving. This year, the approaching holiday season feels as upended as a tarte tatin. My guess is that pie sales will be brisk despite the uncertainty of gathering. One thing remains constant: Pie makes us feel better.

Except for July 4 (which this baker dubs Thanksgiving Junior) pie distinguishes Thanksgiving from all other holidays.


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