When I’ve got a pile of greens in front of me, like spinach, escarole, or arugula, I don’t usually think of low-and-slow cooking. Most often, I quickly wilt my greens over high heat with some oil and garlic, or massage them with vinaigrette for a salad. Even the so-called hearty greens, like collards and kale, I’ll eat raw and crunchy.
But it’s getting chilly, and I’m craving foods that feel warm and rich, and I just can’t get that cozy feeling from a salad. So I’m flipping the script — simmering the greens low and slow, just like you do for Southern-style collards with ham hocks, or the Egyptian long-simmered Jew’s mallow soup, molokhia.