Greetings to all do-it-yourselfers and joiners!
After repairing the handle of this vacuum cleaner, I finally took up enlarged tank.
At that moment a large cleaning tank was required for the garage , but now a large tank is required to collect shavings and sawdust after working with wood. After laying the floorboard, a lot of wood debris remains, sweeping it out, the process is too time-consuming and very dusty, you have to wear a respirator in which it is not so easy to breathe, and it is not logical to collect all the sawdust with shavings in the “native” tank from the vacuum cleaner, after all more suitable for fine dust when chipping walls, i.e. smaller volume. Despite its volume, it is not that big inside. the filter takes up almost half of the usable space (an exaggeration, but still the volume is less than it seems), it has a dust-collecting bag inside it, and shaking it out every time is a time-consuming task, but decided to bother with making fuel briquettes for a friend, in the review on ” “just for him, he sawed a log for firewood, there were a lot of shavings and everything remained on the street. Last winter, when laying the floorboard, he cleaned it from mold and then sawed it to the required size, sawdust accumulated in 15-20 bags, such as large ones from under sugar, threw out a lot of good.
Tools and materials:
- angle grinder (angle grinder)
- crowns for metal and wood
- drills for metal
- blind rivets and rivets
- screws and nuts m3
- Fibreboard ( for hoop)
- plastic barrel
- screwdriver or drill
- cap for heating radiator
- vacuum cleaner hose
- transparent plastic (for the viewing window)
- sanitary check valve
- 10mm plywood
- press washers
- a piece of rubber
- punches or cutters
- steel plate 1-1.5mm thick
- masking tape < br>
- pencil and white marker
- spray paint
- belt sander
- cordbrush for a grinder (angle grinder)
In the summer I impregnated the rest of the floorboards with the composition “OgeBioShield” and there were 4 barrels of impregnation, 65 liters each.
I “laid eyes” on one of the empty barrels in order to make a tank for a vacuum cleaner out of it, if something goes wrong, then there are three more 🙂
Unfastened the vacuum cleaner “from its own tank” and put it on the barrel, I was pleasantly surprised when I discovered that the diameter of the vacuum cleaner and the top of the barrel are the same size .. .
Here, to celebrate, I thought that now for a couple of hours I will do everything and I will work quietly, but not here that was. The “car and small cart” was to be completed.
There were problems with the installation of the vacuum cleaner from the calculation of tightness. The native tank has a small rim on which it is installed, and it is installed on the barrel, but the rim is for the lid, not for the vacuum cleaner …
I had to puzzle over how to make tightness so that the vacuum cleaner would be installed on a new tank as if it were a “native” one. I decided to make a hoop, but the question again became an edge of what …
There is a lot of plastic and plywood, but the process is too time consuming to bend them into a hoop. I decided to try to make it from fiberboard with a thickness of 3 mm, it bends well enough without kink and can be glued from two strips to get a thickness of 7-8 mm. After measuring all important values, namely, at the bottom of the vacuum cleaner there is a groove 10 mm deep and about 8 mm wide, in the depth of this groove a sealant is laid for sealing. As it was already written, the vacuum cleaner is installed on the side of the barrel, and it does not coincide with the groove.
There are a lot of fiberboard sheets (from old cabinets) in the storerooms and I decided to use one for making a hoop. After measurements, I calculated the width of the hoop, it was 4.2 cm. I cut out two strips of this width.
The inner diameter of the barrel neck is 30.2 cm. To bend two glued strips into a hoop, two broken Chipboard (once it was one small sheet of chipboard), the width and length just fit for cutting a circle, a template for the future hoop.
Marked the middle of the circle and, in order not to do one job twice, twisted a self-tapping screw in the middle in order to cut out from one times two template parts.
The main thing is not to forget to subtract from the inner diameter of the barrel neck the width of the future strip from the glued fiberboard.
So far, I don’t have large compasses, I’ve cheated a little, I’ll give someone some advice:
Marked the radius from the center, screwed a half-meter metal ruler through the hole (you need it to hang the ruler on a nail), and put the pencil on the mark and began to push it a ruler adhering to the value that was at the marked risk showing the radius of the circle. In such a cunning way, I drew an almost even circle, the future hoop template.
After sawing out, I found out that the jigsaw blade “dulled” a little bit, and went to the side along the lower sheet. The difference between the cut pancakes was about 5 mm.
I decided not to trim the big pancake, the barrel is made of plastic, the tighter the hoop is inserted into it, the better, and you may not have to spend too much sealant on sealing, the main thing is to fit into the groove vacuum cleaner.
I wrapped electrical tape on a smaller pancake in order to approximately equalize the radii in order to avoid the curvature of the hoop, but later on it turned out to be superfluous. Fiberboard is not paper and not a film to deform and take shape over pancakes. As a result, the strips of fiberboard into the hoop normally became over a larger pancake, and did not even touch the top one.
The strips were about 1.5 meters long, a small margin was required to then more accurately saw off around the circumference.
The first strip was sawed and fixed with self-tapping screws so that you could also cut the second strip, if you remove two strips and measure the length, the length will differ , not much, but even so …
As the strips are cut, you can start gluing them into a hoop.
Fiberboard can bend well, but not without fractures. On the hoop template I had to improvise the stops for the clamp to fix the ends of the top strip.
I smeared one strip on the “wrong side” with wood glue and smeared it for an even layer.
В the place of the fractures had to be screwed into the workpiece.
Before gluing, the most important thing is either to lubricate with something, or, as I did, glued ordinary tape in places where glue could squeeze out and then the hoop would firmly stick to the template.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1606860634_dsc03121.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> I pressed the free ends with a quick-release clamp. It is also quick-release, but with a slight transformation (provided by the engineers) it turns into a quick-release, something like a jack.
After drying for a day, he unscrewed the screws and removed the hoop. It turned out to be quite strong and, most importantly, ideally fit both the neck of the barrel and the groove of the vacuum cleaner itself.
So that the holes from the self-tapping screws do not have to be covered with sealant, I covered them with putty on the wood, and after daily drying I sanded them belt sander.
After sawed off one edge with a jigsaw so that the edge became even from the side of the vacuum cleaner.
On the free side from the outside, I chamfered the same grinder. If you leave the edge as it is, then there will be problems with the installation of the vacuum cleaner. The “sharp” edge of the hoop will cling to the edge of the vacuum cleaner.
For such materials as spray paint and putty for wood, I always withstand a day before final drying (as they say, for sure), there have already been cases in my practice, the declared properties of the manufacturer were not true, although the temperature during drying was higher than the recommended one, but the paint was not completely dried up.
While the glue and putty were drying, so as not to waste time, I was making other parts for the tank.
I have been dealing with scrap metal for a long time and disassembled many vacuum cleaners, at first I threw out the hoses, but then I started to leave them, someday they will definitely come in handy …
I picked the most suitable one. The tube of the plastic part on the hose, which is inserted into the steel tube, was long and narrower than the adapters on the tools (hand-held circular saw, router, wood saw) that will be connected to the vacuum cleaner. Having measured the diameters along the entire length of this part with a caliper, I decided to cut off the edge that is the narrowest and the part that is suitable in diameter for the required size remained. Chamfered for easy installation into a tool (as in the case of a hoop).
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Large tank for Makita 440 vacuum cleaner, NOT CYCLONE" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1606860608_dsc03126.jpg"/> The reverse part, which at one time was installed in the vacuum cleaner itself, has the simplest form and has not undergone alteration.
A rusty metal strip has long been lying around in the storerooms, I cut out blanks from it when repairing the handle of the same vacuum cleaner.
For sealing, I will use a car sealant and at the same time it will be under the washer to close all small holes, because parts will be installed on rivets.
First, I decided on the place on the tank where the hose will be connected. On the sides of the future hole, two centimeters retreated, so that there was where to lubricate with sealant.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1606860586_dsc03144.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> I cut out two squares with a side of 8 cm. I marked out for a hole for the hose and drilled with a metal crown. To prevent each part from being drilled separately, I drilled in two blanks at once.
In a free space, outside the future washer, I drilled two holes and fixed them with a self-tapping screw to the table, so they would not move and all the holes would be the same, but so that in the future do not get confused before installing and do not twist in your hands so that the holes coincide, I made a mark with a small drill, I will start from it during installation.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1606860622_dsc03156-1.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> < a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1606860664_dsc03150.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> Two such details turned out …
I rounded off the edges of the part that will be outside, and the one that will be inside I simply cut off the excess metal with scissors for metal.
I used an old torn car tube to seal the hose in the hole.
I put the “front” part on the camera and circled around the edges and set the drilling points under the rivets with a white marker.
To drill a hole for the hose, screw it to the table through the rivet holes with self-tapping screws. rubber is problematic to drill. I drilled with a bit of a slightly smaller diameter than the part of the hose that will be inserted into the tank. It was hard to drill the rubber, during the drilling process the rubber “ran away” and as a result it turned out crooked.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1606860673_dsc03168.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> I tried how the hose will be inserted and how it will hold, in the end everything is fine, it will not pop out.
Under I pierced the rivets with a punch of a slightly larger diameter than the rivet itself, so I did it because the sealant probably closed all the small holes.
At the end I made a mark as with a small hole on metal parts, only I did not drill, but punched bottom outline.
All three parts are folded in the order of installation, from left to right:
1. front side (outside the tank)
2. rubber gasket (fits under part number 1)
3. inner side (inside the tank).
Now peephole turn! I decided to do it to control the filling of the tank with sawdust and shavings.
Plastic is either acrylic or plexiglass, I don't know what exactly, the main thing is that in the end I came to this homemade product .
But first you need to mark on the barrel where this window will be located.
Placed in the middle where there are no roundings on the bottom and top of the barrel, between the icons warning about the fragility of the cargo and transportation in an upright position.
Marked the middle with a white marker and retreated on the sides along 4 cm. The viewing window will be wide enough to check the fill. As in the case with the first part, I retreated 2 cm on each side to apply sealant under the front part.
Drilled with a crown on wood with a diameter of 40 mm. the gap between the holes was cut out with a grinder.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1606860697_dsc03182.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> When a grinder cut transparent plastic to the required size, the stench from the plastic indicated that it was most likely plexiglass. ..
After receiving the finished part for the window, I marked out by its dimensions on a steel plate and cut out two rectangles with a grinder.
How and with the first details, he also drilled all the necessary holes at once, namely with a crown only. Then I cut out the middle between the holes with a grinder.
Holes for rivets, I drilled through three parts, also not forgetting about a small hole as a guide, and on the plastic I made a notch with a drill without drilling through.
Due to the fact that the parts are large, I first drilled from above and below and screwed in on the screw in order to avoid displacement when drilling the remaining holes.
I rounded the part and the plastic with a grinder without unscrewing the screws and nuts, cut off the inner part with metal scissors.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1606860700_dsc03193.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> All parts are ready for painting, but first they need to be cleaned of rust.
I cleaned them with a cord brush on a grinder, I used the brush with fine wire, because with a thick wire, the brush can tear metal as thick as workpieces, approx. 1.5 mm.
Parts after cleaning.
Before by painting he degreased them with 646th solvent and painted them in two colors, the front parts with the color “Moss green”, and the inside with “Signal white”. There is no principle in the choice, because paint cans have already been started and need to be used up.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1606860729_dsc03197.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> While the parts are on daily drying, I decided to start preparing the hoop for installation in the tank.
In order not to miss the depth of the edge of the hoop when installing the vacuum cleaner, I turned the vacuum cleaner over and put the hoop in its groove … Became like a native 🙂
I made a mark along the edge of the vacuum cleaner, stepped back a couple of millimeters for a stock, and then drew the entire outline on the table, supporting the pencil with another object.
This outline will indicate the depth to which the hoop should be lowered into the barrel.
How everything is ready, you can start installing the hoop in the tank.
I will install rivets in each “dent” or, if I call it something else, a deepening …
Fixed with powerful spring clamps.
Drilled for rivets 3.2 mm in diameter, i.e. to. I will also paint this hoop, then for a start I will screw M3 screws with nuts into the drilled holes so that the hoop does not move during further drilling.
In the future, I immediately screwed a screw into each drilled hole and tightened it with a nut.
I tried on a vacuum cleaner and it sits like a native.
The gap turned out to be more than enough, but this is not a problem.
Includes a filter bag that protects the filter from dust and debris. A bag “native” from a vacuum cleaner.
The most important thing is to make a mark on the hoop so that later you do not suffer from fitting holes. They all the same may not be interchangeable (they may not coincide during the final installation).
On the hoop I made a cutout with a tick opposite the hole for the hose.
I painted the hoop almost in the color of the tank, also degreased before painting.
Now everything is possible install the parts in their “rightful” places.
Began with the installation of parts where the hose is inserted.
I attached the front part to the tank and, holding it tightly with my hand, marked the drilling spots. The gasket from the old chamber will be located under the facepiece. I smeared a car sealant on it, as they say “from the heart”, but such a volume turned out to be superfluous, but surely when installing the rivets, the sealant squeezing out fills all the voids. There was a problem in the face of rubber squeezed out from under the metal “washer”, it was cut off with a clerical knife.
The sealant is poorly smeared on HDPE plastic (from which the barrel is made), and the remains were not difficult to remove with a regular piece of rag.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1606860753_dsc03255.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> Next, I installed the details of the viewing window. The principle is the same as described above, only I decided to place the “glass” inside the tank.
So that the “glass” does not have to be scrubbed, I pasted two pieces of masking tape on it, put the front part on top and drew the outline of the window with a pencil, then cut it along the line with a clerical knife and removed the rest. The tape itself will be removed after all the rivets are riveted into their holes and all excess sealant is lubricated.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1606860683_dsc03244.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> < a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1606860706_dsc03246.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> I applied the sealant as in the photo, hoping that when riveting the rivets, it will squeeze out and do not have to apply separately to each rivet. I was not mistaken in my guesses, so everything turned out, squeezed out the sealant so much that I still had to wipe the barrel from excess.
Once all the rivets are installed and the excess sealant is greased, now you can remove the tape.
How I took off the scotch tape I saw the problem in the face of the cracked “glass” …
It was too lazy to redo it, I decided to press the sealant into the crack with my finger so that it came out from the back side and gently lubricate it. pressing) of the sealant I enlightened with a flashlight and did not see any voids in the crack.
The window is installed.
This is how the details look from the inside.
Next the hoop is going according to the plan …
After daily drying, I inserted it into the neck of the tank and put a tick in the form of a tick as planned.
Riveted with rivets in advance by applying sealant to them closer to the rivet head. Applying the sealant in this way, at the time of installing the rivet, the silicone will lubricate the head and fill all possible gaps.
T .to. There were a lot of rivets, 24 pieces, then the parcel arrived on time with an attachment for the “Riveter” screwdriver.
With a video review and the article you can see the following link, the article contains links to this tool and accessories:
“ Riveter – a nozzle for the” screwdriver “enough to quickly turn the hoop nozzle. A sealant was applied to each rivet, and after installation, excess silicone was easily removed with a regular rag.
When installing rivets, from the inside of the tank, the rivets were threaded through the washers of a suitable size, so it is necessary to do so that the steel ball at the end of the pin does not crush the fiberboard hoop.
up to the rivet hat.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1606860683_dsc03237.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> It turned out very neat.
Left behind a small one, seal the connection between the hoop and the neck of the tank.
I glued the masking tape along the neck of the tank and along the hoop, glued it so that there was a strip not thin by one millimeter, but at least 1 cm. , i.e. they are easy to remove from the plastic, and the one centimeter wide strip of sealant should work as expected. I stepped back for the sealant layer as in the photo, after degreasing it with a solvent.
Squeezed out There is a lot of sealant, so that when smearing it was possible to press into the corner of the abutment of two parts, a tank and a hoop.
After removing excess sealant and removing masking tape, it turned out better than any factory version 🙂
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Large tank for Makita 440 vacuum cleaner, NOT CYCLONE" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1606860763_dsc03260.jpg"/> After the first testing, namely turning on the vacuum cleaner and shutting off the “oxygen” … the tank collapsed 🙁
The vacuum cleaner itself with a power of 2 kW, and the same amount of power can be connected to it tools through the “synchronizer”, so he crumpled such a wonderful barrel.
The safety valve did not want to install due to the fact that when sucking a large amount of sawdust and shavings that it will constantly work and the work will be a hassle and the hose will be clogged due to insufficient retraction force …
I am not a specialist and there is practically no experience in this area, that's why I didn't want to bother with the above and below described, but I had to. ..
Experience is the son of difficult mistakes 🙂
Now we will have to make the ribs of the rigidity and the safety valve itself inside the tank, because and the shape is lost after the first start and still IT IS NECESSARY TO DO !!!
I made the ribs of plywood 10 mm thick.
This sheet has been with me for about 7-8 years, since I started to get involved in homemade products ( without publications).
Why will the good be lost? So I put it into action, it's better than throwing it into the trash where the same self-made person like me will pick it up 🙂
I cut two rings out of it along the inner diameter, they are also ribs, as with a template for a hoop. I don’t have large caliper sizes, so I had to apply the method described above.
I decided to make the ring width about 10-15 mm, in the end (running ahead) it turned out to be more than enough.
But put it into the tank through a smaller hole without breaking the neck, especially since the hoop is already mounted, it is not possible, I marked in advance the middle in diameter along which the rings will be cut … (in the second photo above you can see the marking strip)
First, I cut out the pancakes themselves .
Then I drilled 10 mm holes with a drill so that the jigsaw blade could be inserted.
Sawed out the inner circle. There are two rings left, which in the future will play the role of stiffening edges.
( leftovers (in the photo above to the right of the rings) will be used after cutting, but that's another story ….)
In order not to confuse the details during further installation after cutting (in order to put them inside the tank), I marked them with X and V …
For I used a suspension for plasterboard ceilings that was not suitable for direct use, but before installing them inside the tank, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the suspension is made of metal and has sharp edges that can damage the tank. I first sawed along the diameter line, and then folded the sawn parts back (according to the marks), and screwed the cut strips from the suspension so that their edges did not protrude beyond the edges of the plywood rings.
I won't hide, I thought of this after I screwed on the first two cut strips, they had to be cut with metal scissors so that the edges would not touch the tank in the future after installation.
The tank will not shrink when the air is discharged inside.
After all the manipulations, I put the parts inside and tighten them in place with a screwdriver onto the self-tapping screws of the press washer. After retesting, the ribs showed excellent functionality. In places where the tank had shrunk before, the previous damage and deformation appeared, but the tank is functioning perfectly.
Inside, sawdust is visible when testing the tank for its intended purpose, for collecting sawdust and shavings for making fuel briquettes.
I also decided to install a check valve so that the vacuum cleaner does not burn out during operation.
I used a check valve from a submersible pump.
At the moment I use an unfinished private house from time to time as a workshop, but at the same time all important communications have already been carried out and are functioning in full force, but that year the check valve on a submersible has become unusable pump …
At the first inspection, it is fully functional, but for some reason it does not close properly when the water pressure from the house back into the well, I naturally changed it to a new one, and I was going to turn it over to non-usable steel, brass all the same.
And blessing I forgot where it lies when the nonferrous metal was handed over, but with this homemade product I remembered where it lies and decided to use it.
Again there was a question of how to attach it to the tank … accessories for batteries, namely plugs.
And by a lucky coincidence, the threads on the check valve and on the plug coincided, as they say, 1 in 1.
But I don't need a plug in its form, I decided to drill a hole in it. I picked up a crown for metal, marked the center inside the plug …
I marked it with a caliper, inside the plug in the middle I numbered it with a marker, and scratched it with sponges for internal measurement. I set the jaws to half the inner diameter of the plug and, resting against one of the walls, scratched in the center (approx.), Turned the plug by about a quarter and scratched the second mark. I got the center, then I drilled it with a 2.5 mm drill, and then I drilled it with a metal bit.
I didn’t know that it would be so thick-walled, almost 8 mm.
I couldn't find a better place than to install it on the side, even if it sticks out, but this is not critical. Then I will somehow come up with another version of the check valve so that it does not interfere. Later, when working, I touched the tank for this non-return valve.
Drilled closer to the neck of the tank, between the suction port and the inspection window. The set included a wood crown of the same diameter as the thread on the battery cap.
I did not insert the cap, but screwed it into the tank wall. The silicone gasket remained on it and did not have to cut or smear sealant on it from the rubber.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1606860727_dsc03350.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> The check valve screwed on easily, and when tightening it I had to use an adjustable wrench.
Now the tank can be used for its intended purpose, collect sawdust and then make fuel briquettes from them. < br> I put the original filter bag into the tank and installed the vacuum cleaner.
Connects to the miter saw.
Now there will be no “carpet” of sawdust underfoot, as they say, good will not be lost 🙂
After working with sawdust, all the sawdust is in the tank and through the window you can see how much has already accumulated.
Now everything is ready and tested.
Thank you for your attention, do not forget to tell your friends and colleagues about this idea 🙂 I will sell this homemade product or make it to order. Email me or leave comment for discussing details.