Hello, dear readers and homemade products !
After drying the boards, various changes in their geometry can occur, for example, twisting into a “propeller” or “bowl”. You can level the board for further use with the help of special machines – a planer and a jointer.
First, you need to level one base surface on the jointer, and already starting from it, a second plane is displayed on the planer, strictly parallel to the first. All this is quite easy to implement when the workpieces are short and the surface curvature is small.
If the long board is twisted into a “propeller”, then the capabilities of the jointer and planer will not be enough.
In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “DIY Tools” will tell you how he made a special carriage for processing long boards on a thicknesser.
Such a carriage will allow you to display the base surface on the thicknessing tool without using a jointer.
The workpiece is fixed on the carriage not only with clamps on the sides, but also with many adjustable supports from the bottom. This solution ensures the stability of the part along its entire length, even with strong curvatures.
The proposed carriage is not very difficult to manufacture, and can be repeated in a small carpentry workshop.
Materials necessary for homemade work.
– Boards, sheet plywood, pins
– Wood screws
– Furniture driven nuts , screws
– Joiner's glue, sandpaper.
So, the master begins to manufacture the base of the carriage. Its length depends on the size of the workpieces to be processed, and its width depends on the capabilities of the thicker.
First of all, the author prepared a rectangular plywood part, which will serve as one of the working surfaces of the carriage. An additional frame made of a smooth pine board is needed not only to stiffen the carriage, but also to install a system of supports and clamps.
A pine board is pressed along one long edge and screwed on. For self-tapping screws, pilot holes must be prepared using a wood drill with countersink.
Given the width base and the second long board, the master cuts out rectangular lintels. These details are laid out along the first board with a strictly defined step (you can set it for your tasks).
In the same way, the second board and two extreme jumpers are screwed to the plywood. The center jumpers will be fixed in a different way.
Each of the inner lintels is nailed to the plywood with studs. Nails are driven only along the perimeter, they should not be along the middle line of the jumpers!
After fixing the frame, the second plywood part is screwed to it (again along the perimeter). It is necessary to note the location of the internal elements of the framework.
Using a Forstner drill, the foreman drills three rows of holes along the entire length of the carriage. The depth of the holes is about a third of the thickness of the carriage.
As you might have guessed, each three of the holes is located strictly along the centerline of the jumpers.
All these recesses (on the upper surface of the carriage) are designed for small cylinders that will serve as supports.
With reverse , the bottom side of the carriage must be drilled coaxial holes of the same depth, but with a smaller drill.
In the center of the recesses, the author drills a through 10-mm hole for the M8 nut.
Of course , it would be worth drilling the recesses after preparing the through holes, so it is easier to achieve alignment, and not be guided by the marking.
The eccentric clamps will be fixed along the edge of the carriage base with steel pins. Blind holes are prepared for them. The author has provided two places for installing the eccentric, one of them is located closer to the center of the carriage.
For the convenience of installing the locking nuts, the author winds them on a bolt and slightly hammers them into the mounting hole. In order not to break the thread, the bolt is unscrewed, and the nut is hammered in with steel round timber.
The degree of lifting of the supports will be adjusted with screws. The sum of the lengths of the screw and the cylindrical support should be 1-2 mm less than the thickness of the carriage. As a result, the screw heads should not protrude above the bottom surface.
As you can see, not all holes of the recesses turned out to be coaxial, from which the heads of some screws touch their edges.
Cylindrical supports are cut from a dowel of the same diameter as the indentations.
Blanks for the eccentrics are cut from hardwood. Holes for pins are marked and drilled, with a small depression for the head.
An eccentric with a lever is formed from a rectangular part.
Along the first several stop blocks are screwed on the long top edge of the carriage.
Eccentrics are installed opposite the blocks. The master drove the pins through the eccentrics into the outer holes, this position is for the widest boards.
So, the carriage is ready. A board with a curvature in the form of a propeller is laid out on it.
Between the board , blocks, and eccentrics, small compensating blocks are inserted. After that, the eccentrics are clamped.
The carriage with the board turns to one side, and the master carefully tightens the screws. Thus it extends the props until they touch the board.
No effort is needed when screwing in the adjusting screws.
As a result, the board will lie securely on support.
Finally, the carriage together with the workpiece is driven through the thickness gauge.
In a couple of passes, the master gets an ideal base plane.
Second layer boards are aligned on a thickness gauge without a carriage.
So, both faces are parallel, but the edges remain curved. You can go back to the circular saw, or make another carriage to align the edges.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1607017721_rka-327.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> For a new carriages will require a rectangular plywood base, and a calibrated beam. It is the timber that will play the role of a guide.
The timber is screwed along the edge of the base.
Edge plane the timber should be flat and perpendicular to the base along its entire length.
The quality of the second board or the timber is not so important, it is just a stop for the wedges.
After screwing in the screws, the master reinforces the base with another layer of plywood.
The board is pressed against the supporting surface of the timber and is fixed in the carriage with several wedges.
Now you can also align the base flange surface.
What to do with a second edge? You can turn the board over and repeat the operation on the thickness gauge, or switch to a circular saw with a parallel stop.
Tools used by the author.
– Forstner drills with adjustable depth
– Wood drills with countersink – – Electric Neyler
– Band saw, thickness gauge
– Circular saw, drum grinder
– Swenson's square, pencil. < br> Thanks to the author for the master class on making special carriages for the planer!
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Author's video can be found here.
Hello, dear readers and homemade products !