Greetings, DIY !
In this article, we'll take a closer look at the process of making a huge bar counter. To create it, you will need several epoxy buckets, hundreds of hours of work, and several artifacts of a bygone era.
Further instructions are taken from the YouTube channel” Likhoy Ax “.
The base of the bar will be made of ash bars.
The task is as follows: it is necessary to obtain from these scraps more than 300 bars of the same section, but of different length. Let's start with this.
At the next stage, it is necessary to unfold an approximate composition from the previously sawn blanks.
After several unsuccessful experiments, the ideal solution was found.
This bar is made by the author to order specifically for a particular bar, which has its own name and logo. Therefore, it was decided to make such a logo, which will be laid out from bars. The master tried to get as close to the original as possible, taking into account the format and proportions.
As a result, a sketch was made and a drawing was drawn, starting from the real proportions and sizes. This solution made it possible to more accurately calculate all the details, which in the future will make up one composition. Glue the elements together.
After a couple of days, the glue dried up, and these are the details:
These will be the elements of the designer, since the bar itself will be quite large, more than 3 meters, in the future we will also glue the parts together. The final gluing was decided to be carried out directly in the place where the tabletop will be filled with epoxy resin.
Preliminarily and prudently at the connection points, bars were left a little more authentic. This is necessary in order to tighten the elements with clamps, like this:
A day has passed, the glue has set, you can remove the clamps and now you can cut off the bars protruding from the outside.
Next step – preparation of the formwork. We put a thin transparent plastic in the base; after drying, epoxy resin perfectly leaves. Actually, for this reason, it lies at the bottom.
Further on this plastic you can collect the entire composition.
In order to evenly press all the shields, we load them with everything that comes to hand.
As you can see, this time the master got the cans with epoxy. Now we construct a simple formwork, coat the perimeter with silicone sealant, and then finger in a circle, or in a rectangle, as in this case.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "A huge epoxy bar counter" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1608387648_potplayermini64-2020-12-19-17-04-29-256. jpg "/> The formwork is ready, the resin can be mixed. The proportions are indicated on the packaging, there shouldn't be any difficulties here.
The first coat is a primer and test coat. This fill layer will be small. For these purposes, the master uses a composition called Crystal Epoxy from Artline. This resin is completely polymerized in a day, which is excellent for this purpose.
All end parts of the bars must be thoroughly coated with resin. This is done in order to minimize the formation of air bubbles in the filling. We arm ourselves with a brush and cover all ends with the composition.
The next day, when the resin has set, pour in another bucket of the same composition.
Next, we proceed to fill the empty space in the center of the countertop. It was decided to use elements of a bygone era as a filler and main theme. That is why there will be eight-bit consoles, floppy disks, audio tapes, joysticks, cartridges and other thematic attributes here.
When all the filler is decomposed, and the second layer of resin has already set, knead the third portion. There will already be a pretty decent volume here. Looking ahead, it should be noted that as a result, the whole project took more than 40 liters of resin.
For such volumetric fillings, the author recommends using a special composition, for example, Monolith 10. From such a composition, even if such a large volume is poured, all air bubbles come out perfectly, and this happens without any additional manipulations, since the composition polymerizes for a rather long period of time – 7 days.
The first batch must be done until all the streaks disappear, you can clearly see it in the image below.
Actually, this is one of the components, which has not yet mixed with the second. And when such stains are completely gone, the resin can be poured into a second bucket and mixed again. This is how it is necessary to mix the resin correctly, and the correctly mixed resin can be safely poured directly into the formwork, which is what we will actually do.
All the resin is poured, now you need to wait a week, during which time the resin is completely polymerized.
After 7 days we return to pouring and remove the formwork.
At this stage, the surface needs to be leveled and sized exactly. Such a mill will perfectly cope with this task:
We will use a manual router.
This is a fairly powerful router, which is very important since not every router will pull such a router. Often, simpler milling cutters cannot even hold such a cutter in the collet, which is not at all safe.
Since the size of the processed surface is non-standard, a carriage and guides were made specifically for these purposes.
Only in this way, aisle by aisle and hour by hour. Yes, difficult, yes, long, but it's worth it. Just look at the result:
At this stage, it is necessary to butt the workpiece to size. And since the guide and carriage were made specifically for this project, then it's a sin not to use them to the fullest.
The first step is to set the tabletop clear dimensions using a spiral cutter. First, we make a small groove and, already starting from it, we work further.
Then, with a jigsaw, roughly cut off the extra array.
And the next step is to remove the rest with a copy cutter.
As you can see, chips are flying from the cutter, not dust and debris. This is an indicator of the correct cutter, and it must be borne in mind that we are processing the end part.
Then, after milling, we process the ends with such a clever machine:
Now it remains to sand the surface and varnish it. Grind the upper part with an eccentric machine. This is a rather lengthy process that you will definitely spend many hours on. You should start with coarse sandpaper, and finish with fine sandpaper until we reach the 400th issue.
Then we remove dust from the surface and degrease it.
Then we apply a transparent glossy varnish in a couple of layers. In this example, the author uses a car varnish.
When the varnish has dried, it remains to mount the lighting, which is done as follows:
In order not to spoil the appearance of the countertop, the lower part must be covered with a thin layer of white paint. She will be the diffuser.
After that, we put on a backlit shield and you can evaluate the result of the work done.
Thank you for your attention. Until next time!
Greetings, DIY !