Good day to all DIYers!
As I wrote in the articles:
Chainsaw review on Angle grinder (Bulgarian)
3 options for revision of the attachment “Chain saw for angle grinder “
Collecting firewood for an old friend.
While I was sawing a piece of wood in the video review, on the grinder attachment, there were a lot of shavings left on the street, then I came up with and implemented a large tank for a vacuum cleaner (you can familiarize yourself with the manufacture at the following link below)
Large tank for the Makita 440 vacuum cleaner, NOT CYCLONE
Just for collecting chips and sawdust when working with machines with a circular saw for wood, so that you do not have to sweep it all with a broom every time when collecting garbage.
One fine day, lumberjacks gave me a bunch of unnecessary stumps and rather thick branches, at that moment they cut down old diseased trees. In his auto he rammed all this stuff so that they got sick of the fact that a considerable pile of firewood got into the Zhiguli … I transported everything from one trip, and then brought some rather big hemp.
For free and sweet vinegar 🙂
Don't worry about building a car garage so I will immediately undertake a complete restoration, this pyaterochka has earned its continued existence with its trouble-free service and endurance. A month before this firewood I took out 890 kg of scrap metal on it + I drove a car, my weight is almost 100 kg = 990 kg and no breakdowns have been found so far!The unloaded firewood and what I brought back in the summer. There are no photos, but I brought a lot of firewood for a friend.
A circular saw will not be able to cut through such pieces of wood completely, in the future firewood.
I will cut them with a nozzle ” Chainsaw for angle grinders “, but there is a problem, it has no chip removal for the vacuum cleaner!
Tools and materials:
- sewer pipe 40×250
- blind rivets 6,4×10 and 4×8
- rivets
- hair dryer with digital temperature control
- utility knife
- soldering iron
- screwdriver or drill
- drills for metal
- pencil or marker
- screw М6х10
- washers М6, regular and spring-loaded
- threading tool
Before sawing wood, I decided to start making such a chip collector.
The only thing that came to my mind from what to do is, as always, a universal material for most home-made people, a plastic sewer pipe.
Considering that there is already a hose for the vacuum cleaner, with a diameter of about 38 mm, I bought a sewer pipe with a diameter of 40 mm, the sealing gum in the pipe does not so easily allow the hose to jump out, but it is inserted easily, if it starts to pop out over time, then the problem is solved by winding electrical tape on the hose itself .
The shortest that was, 250 mm long.
But you have to redo it, there is no desire to attach it “tightly”, I will make it removable.
First, I decided on the place of cutting off the excess, tk. it is longer than necessary. I decided on the place, attached it to the casing where it will be in the future and marked the place of cutting with a pencil.
Marked so that the expansion on the bell was right behind the casing of the nozzle itself. The shorter the tube the better.
After studying all possible dimensions of the space where the chips will come out, I decided on the method of fixing the chip collector and how this the pipe is further cut and bent with the help of a construction hair dryer.
There is more than enough space for fasteners both from above (under the plastic casing) and from below (on a metal base, which is attached to the grinder itself).
Until I started fantasizing about fasteners (quite a few options were invented), i.e. what and how to implement it.
First, you need to cut and bend the tube itself, let's say to give it a look with all the mounting “ears” for which it will be attached to the nozzle.
I cut the pipe so that it started from the D-shaped handle of the nozzle.
After further study in the place, I began to mark on it with a pencil the risks of possible cuts and cuts, I tried to make sure that I had to solder the plastic again, because released harmful substances, even in small quantities, can cause harm.
(below is a view of how it should be located)
Since it will be removable, the mounting “ears” must be on both sides.
I attached a pipe from the back of the casing and drew parallel lines, made it so that the bottom of the future chip collector was at the bottom of the D-shaped handle.
In these places, the plastic will be warmed up with a construction hairdryer and bend outward, after the last manipulations the curved part will also warm up will flatten out.
Due to the design, you will have to cut out the plastic from the side of the metal base, on this side the screw that fixes the entire nozzle on the grinder interferes.
(in the photo below the risk on the pipe does not mean anything, a demonstration of what is in the way)
Marked with a pencil the limits on both sides of the mounting screw.
I drew along the tube obliquely, in order to give a more or less appearance and also make further as possible gaps between the tube and nozzle casing.
After I cut it with a regular clerical knife between parallel lines.
And also cut through the ellipse with the same knife to get two “ears”.
To warm them up and align them, I found a large piece of scrap in my scrap heap and fixed it in a vice, it turned out a kind of “anvil” for working with plastic.
I put it on a corner with a slit in the tube and warmed it with a construction hairdryer at a temperature of about 250-300 ° C, began to bend the future “ear”.
At first I was going to make the same mounting “ears” on both sides, but at the last moment I decided to make only one side, on the other, the construction did not allow to be made symmetrically.
I bent a piece of the tube inward …
After warming up with the same temperature, he stepped back from the formed corner about a couple of centimeters, bent up. The second “ear” was simply bent up and leveled almost to a flat state (you can see it in the photo above).
But you can't immediately warm up thick plastic so that you can bend it like plasticine, 3 mm thick. Plastic “sprung” trying to bend back.
Warmed up by 350 ° C in two corners and brought it to the desired position.
For fastening on a metal base, I had to cut the flat part.
But there is not enough space for fastening, it will be mounted on one M6x10 screw.
Therefore, you will have to cut it out. ..
A small “tail” will remain, but this is more than enough to install the screw into it.
This is how the chip collector will be attached to the metal base …
Fitting after all the manipulations and adjustments in place.
The chip collector “sat down” like a native. < br> 
Everything as planned, does not touch the tool and does not interfere with holding the grinder.
Still had to cut on the reverse side, the small “eyelet” for the screw turned out to be small.
I decided to cut a couple more or three millimeters to reduce the gap between the tube and the nozzle.
I was not mistaken with the approximate size, it turned out much better.
Putting the tube in its place, at once drilled with a 2.5 mm drill through the pipe into the metal, problems with drilling it was not, because metal – aluminum.
Then I drilled in the metal with a 5 mm drill, just under the M6 ​​screw, and in the plastic with a 6.5 mm.
I cut M6 threads with a tap.
I picked up a screw with a regular washer and also had to add a spring washer, anyway there will be vibrations, and the grower washer will just prevent loosening.
And checked everything as intended …
As I wrote above, the distance from the chain to the attachment and the casing is sufficient, and at the same time the screw will not catch the chain itself during operation.
Now it is the turn to attach the chip collector to the casing …
At first I thought to make a screw connection too, but then changed my mind, there is a better method.
Since the screw is mounted on a point, and at this place an offset is possible … in the future, this offset will allow you to implement your plan.
then I will do something like a “valve”.
To do this, I drilled through a tube into a plastic casing with a 2.5 mm drill for metal …
drilled in the chip collector with a 6.5 mm drill …
drilled in the casing with a 4 mm drill.
To make the casing move like a latch, next to the 6.5 mm drilled holes, retreated 8 mm and drilled the same holes on one straight line.
I cut the “partition” between the holes with a clerical knife …
then cut the plastic 6.5 mm wide from the left holes upwards. (see photo below)
The mount itself will be made of blind rivets, 6.4×10 and 4×8.
Initially I was going to make it out of metal (something like amplifiers for plastic), but I didn't want to waste time marking and cutting out metal, followed by cleaning and painting, so I decided to make fastening immediately in a plastic casing, as practice later showed, working with metal would be superfluous.
The thickness of the plastic is 3 mm, and the 6.4×10 rivets will have to be cut to a length of 4 mm.
I cut them right on the hairpin for which the rivet is pulled out.
Made two of these “washers”. After trimming to the desired size, we had to drill a hole in the rivet to 4 mm, initially it was about 3.7-3.9 mm.
By the way, with a trimmed rivet length of 6.4 to 4 mm, I did not lose it, it just keeps well. < br> 
A 4×8 rivet will be threaded from the inside of the casing, having inserted an M4 washer in advance.
Now you can install the “mushrooms” with rivets.
Threaded a rivet with a 4 mm washer through the casing with “front” side put on a trimmed rivet 6,4 and set it with a rivet, with the second the same procedure.
It turned out better than expected, I thought that after installation I would have to cut the protruding ball from the 4×8 rivet with a grinder.
Now the “valve” type fastening is done.
Easy to install!
First, the chip collector is put on these rivets are shifted to the D-shaped handle until it stops, and then the grinder is turned over and the M6 ​​screw is tightened.
In the process of working on the chip control I forgot about the hole …
No matter how I tried to avoid working with plastic soldering, nevertheless, it is still better to do this than to warm up thick plastic for a very long time and bend it as required, while much more harmful substances can be released than quickly soldering a small piece of plastic.
It needs to be closed, otherwise the pulling force will be weaker …
After cutting off excess plastic where the screw is screwed in, a strip remains.
Attached it to the hole and scratched the outline with an awl. The rounding just fits the shape.
I cut it out with scissors for metal.
And I soldered it with a regular soldering iron. First, I grabbed it with potholders, and then warmed it up more thoroughly around the perimeter and soldered this piece and the pipe.
From the inside, as I could, I also lost more or less.
The chip collector is ready to work, now, thanks to the large tank for the vacuum cleaner, you can collect all the sawdust and shavings in one container and then make fuel briquettes from this material.
Of course, the chip remover did not collect all the chips, but by and large, the vacuum cleaner pulled in everything, but what crumbled after sawing I collected the next piece of wood with a vacuum cleaner. As a result, the porch on which he was sawing wood remained clean after work.
P.S .: Photo of firewood that I sawed with this attachment with a chip removal tool. There are only two photos, but for comparison of sizes they lie near the old interior door of the Soviet era, however, everything is clearly visible in the video.
This is how much the tank collected during the cutting of firewood, a barrel to the eyeballs …
As a result, one full tank is equal to one bag.
I shook it out too easily, the bag was normally put on the tank and poured the shavings by turning the tank upside down.
Thank you for your attention, I think the idea with rivets may be useful to someone! I will sell this homemade product or make it to order. Email me or leave comment for discussing details.
