In this article I will tell you how to make a gasoline lighter from a bottle of medicines and sheet brass … It is worth noting that for the manufacture of this lighter, complex tools and equipment, such as a lathe, etc., are not needed, which means that anyone can repeat this design.
Materials and tools:
– sheet brass 0 , 7-1.2 mm;
– glass vial from under medicines;
– nipple and metal cap from a car or bicycle camera;
– brass or copper tube with an outer diameter of about 4.5 mm;
– brass tube with a diameter of 6 mm;
– copper wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm;
– copper wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm;
– cotton wool or cotton cord;
– flux for soldering;
– electric soldering iron for 40W or more;
– gas torch ;
– scissors for metal;
– drill and drill 3mm;
– half-liter jar with a solution of sodium chloride and LBP;
– files, rectangular and triangular sections;
– fine-grained sandpaper;
First, you need to make a stencil out of cardboard or thick paper, according to which the outer casing of the lighter will be made. For the stencil, you need to take a strip of paper equal to the height of the bubble wall to the point of narrowing. Next, the strip should be wrapped around the bubble and cut off the excess in the place of the overlap. Then, the strip must be expanded and, having outlined, symmetrically cut out two windows.
After that, the stencil is attached to the brass sheet with glue or double-sided tape.
A workpiece is cut along its outer contour. Next, you need to cut out the previously marked windows in the workpiece for this, I used a drill to drill a number of holes and removed the excess part.
Then I grinded off the remaining sharp projections with a file and sanded the edges of the holes with sandpaper.
Now you can proceed to the next operations, but I wanted to decorate the surface of the casing with a simple floral ornament. This can be done by electrochemical etching. To do this, you need a half-liter jar with a solution of sodium chloride (about half a tablespoon of salt), and a laboratory power supply unit with the ability to regulate current and voltage. A wire is soldered to the casing blank, with the help of which it is subsequently connected to the power source.
Then the surface of the casing is covered with a protective insulating layer in my case this is zaponlak (but this is not the best option). Then the pattern is scratched with a needle. I additionally pasted over the back wall with plasticine, it also covers the ends of the workpiece, on which unwanted etching is possible.
After that, I placed the workpiece in a jar of salt solution, and connected it to the positive terminal of the power supply. A piece of the same brass sheet was connected to the negative contact. The optimal values of current and voltage can be determined empirically by first etching a test pattern on some unnecessary brass trimming (approximate values 5V 350mA). After etching, the part must be cleaned of the insulating coating and rinsed with water.
At this stage, the casing can be considered ready, then it must be bent in the shape of a bubble, for which it is worth using a bar or blank about the diameter of the bubble. To perform this operation, it is necessary to fix the bar in a vise and, after going around the casing, tap the surface of the latter with a hammer.
To do this, you should use a special tool with a soft sole to avoid the appearance of dents on the casing. If you do not have a suitable tool, you can use a regular metalwork hammer, but first glue its sole with several layers of electrical tape.
Now it is necessary to make a spark-cutting mechanism for this you will need a bronze stand, such as used for fixing boards in electrical appliances. A brass tube with a diameter of about 6 mm and a lighter wheel, in my case this is a part from the Chinese “Zippo” but you can also use an element from a cheap gas lighter.
In the tube a cut is made under the wheel and the window for installing the flint, after which a bronze stand is installed inside the tube, so that its lower edge coincides with the upper edge of the flint window.
the rack already has a thread, then after installing the flint and spring, you just need to tighten them with a screw. The wheel in the cut is fixed with a rivet, the hole for which should be about 2 mm, it must be drilled out before making the cut under the wheel, otherwise the wall may be strongly deformed.
Next, make a clamp, with which the bubble is fixed in the casing, and a part that connects the casing and the clamp to each other. For this, metal scissors and pliers are used. Holes with a diameter of 3 mm are drilled in the details of the clamp for the clamping screws.
After that, the clamp and the mechanism for sparks are soldered to the casing.
Next, you need to make a lid for the bubble with a tube into which the wick will be placed. To do this, cut a plate of a suitable size from a sheet of brass, drill a hole in its center corresponding to the outer diameter of the tube (in my case, 4.5 mm), make slots for the clamping screws at the edges of the plate using a file. On the bottom side, a brass sheet ring is soldered to the plate, made by a method similar to that used for bending the casing, but in this case the diameter of the bar must correspond to the diameter of the neck of the bubble. The tube through which the wick will pass should be slightly bent so that it would be closer to the flint in the finished product.
All three parts must be soldered together, for this you can use a gas burner.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Homemade gasoline lighter made of glass bubble and brass" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1608645985_img_20200729_150713.jpg"/> Now to the top the tube must be soldered to a threaded neck made from the nipple of a car or bicycle camera.
To do this, you need to remove the rubber from the nipple and cut off the excess part with a hacksaw, which should be saved, it will come in handy further.
After that it is necessary to make a wick, for this I used cotton wool and a thin copper wire, the wire is necessary to strengthen the wick and to allow it to rise as it burns out.
The wick is inserted into the tube and all the elements are put together. The bubble is inserted into the casing, secured with a clamp, and a cover with a tube is put on top, fixed with clamping screws. The seal between the lid and the neck is a rubber stopper from this bubble with a hole made in its center for the tube.
Then an oil and petrol resistant rubber ring is put on the neck.
Now a cover is made from a cap for a car tire and a nipple cut, which remained after the manufacture of a threaded neck. A copper wire chain is attached to the lid. The lid is then attached to the lighter.
Remains to refuel gasoline and put the flint and the lighter is ready.
Here are some photos of the finished product.
In addition to performing the main function, such a lighter can be a decoration of a desk or memory a great gift.