Greetings, Self-made skins !
In this article, we will analyze in detail the process of creating such a conductor:
Further instructions are taken from the YouTube channel “DobryjMaster”.
Those who are familiar with the work of the author of the above-mentioned channel and watched his past video know that he decided to gradually master the carpentry business. For this reason, it was decided to start stocking up on the appropriate tool. This article will focus on one universal fixture – a template, which will certainly come in handy in the carpentry practice in the future.
First, you need a sheet of metal 8mm thick.
For this project, this is certainly not the best choice, but the master, unfortunately, did not have an aluminum sheet. But the tool is needed now, so we will do it from what we have.
The first step is to mark a rectangle with sides 140mm by 180mm.
The wizard works without any blueprints, so he cuts with a large margin. As the saying goes, “a lot is not a little.” In the course of manufacturing, all dimensions will already be adjusted more precisely.
We go outside to cut the workpiece, so there will be no excess dust and burning smell in the workshop.
The next step is to cut off all unnecessary from the workpiece, thereby making it a little easier.
Next, mark the shank in which the stop will be attached.
Then, using a bimetallic bit, it was decided to make a rounding at the base of the shank. This does not make any practical sense, just like that, according to the author, it will be more beautiful.
Now, with a small machining allowance, we cut off the unnecessary metal. This is done in 2 stages, first with the help of a grinder, and then with the help of this homemade attachment for a screwdriver:
When processing such surfaces, you simply cannot do without such adaptations.
Then we clean the metal with a coral disc, so it will be much more pleasant to work in this way.
At this stage, you can start drilling the necessary holes.
In them we will cut a thread M12 with a pitch of 1.25mm. In the future, nozzles will be screwed into these holes. We need three of these with a step of 60mm.
Then, with a drill with a diameter of 2 mm, we will make a template for inserting loops. One hole for Forstner's drill and the other four for self-tapping screws.
On the edge, opposite each nozzle, it is necessary to make semicircular grooves. What they are for you will see a little later. The master does this with a milling cutter, but the same operation can be easily done with an angle grinder and a file. It's just that the cutter will be more accurate and also faster.
After that, it is also necessary to make a semicircular groove in the shank. It is needed to adjust the stop.
At this stage, such a detail has already turned out.
We pass to the stop. We will make it from a corner with sides 50mm.
Mark its corner according to the width of the base and cut it. Also, do not forget to get rid of the old paint.
As you can see, this corner is far from the first freshness and has an uneven corner. But this is not a problem, now we will fix it. The milling cutter is used again. Slowly, little by little, literally one tenth of a millimeter, we align the plane.
As a result, the corner is smooth and shiny.
The stop will be located at the bottom and to adjust it, you need to make just such a detail.
It fits tightly into the groove and does not play.
We will fix it to the stop on the screws, this will be more than enough.
This is how this assembled part looks like:
Now some turning. The first step is to make the nozzles. We make a groove for the M12 thread with a pitch of 1.25mm and grind it into the required diameter.
As you already understood, the nozzles will be replaceable, and to make them more convenient to unscrew, we will perform knurling.
Now you can cut the thread itself.
It remains to drill a hole (in this case, 7.8 mm in diameter) and you can cut it off.
We also need a screw that will fix the stop in the desired position. We will also make it on a lathe. The screw thread will be m6 and we will also knurl it.
We are in no hurry to leave the lathe, we will make such a finger:
Now let's work a little with the base and expand the nozzles to 8mm.
It is also necessary to ease the emphasis a little. To do this, set it to the top point, mark and cut off everything unnecessary.
After some time, here's an emphasis turned out:
Finishing parts must be done in pairs, so it will be more accurate.
Further, it was decided to bury the device. To do this, first of all, all the details must be thoroughly degreased.
Bluing will be chemical, Ballistol rusty varnish. It is simply applied to a degreased surface, blackening occurs literally before our eyes.
Well, after a certain amount of time, this beauty turned out:
The author also prepared such a drill for metal with a stopper.
Of course, it is better to use a drill for wood, but since the master has not yet had time to acquire one, let's move on to testing with what is available at the moment.
Let's start the test with the fact that for a start we will make holes in the end of the chipboard for dowels. Align the edges of the fixture and plate, and then drill.
To prevent the template from shifting during the next drilling, place a finger in the hole. We repeat exactly the same procedure on the other hand.
Using the template, you can mark holes not only for the outer walls, but also for the inner partitions. To do this, just fix the future partition with dowels and attach a template.
And the last, where we will test today's self-made adaptation, is the marking of furniture hinges. Actually, the procedure is the same here. We set the template and use a small drill with a diameter of 2 mm to mark.
Next, with a Forstner drill we make a recess under the loop according to the markings and fasten it.
Connect the two parts of the loop and you're done.
As you can see, it turned out very well. Here is such a useful device as a result. That's all. Thank you for attention. Until next time!
Greetings, Self-made skins !