Photo 1. Appearance of the machine. When reconstruction of the home brick heating and cooking oven and the hot water for household household needs – in brickwork a small heat exchanger is built in , the water tank was retrofitted and moved to the oven roof , under the ceiling. The new placement is very convenient, however, the construction of the filler (water) had to be tinkered with. In a new version, it is automated, with a small electric pump from a common household tank – a barrel.
What was used for the work.
A set of medium-sized locksmith tools, a set of tools for electrical installation.
The new version of the hot water tank is equipped with a float sensor for the maximum water level (Photo 2).
Photo 2. Float sensor for maximum water level.
Photo 3. First of all, I led to the installed communication tank – a thin metal-plastic (MP) pipe for water and a two-core wire – the sensor output.
He molded the pipe with his hands in place, led it along the ceiling to the storage barrel with water in the same room. The pipe was fixed to the wooden ceiling with self-made tin clamps with short self-tapping screws (Photo 3, 4).
Photo 4. Home storage capacity. Stands on a strong wooden shelf above the washing machine. At the bottom of the barrel there is a glued fitting with a tap and a hose for parsing cold water. Email is being filled. pump from the spring.
The pump for pumping water used an aquarium submersible for a voltage of ~ 220 V, a power of 25 W (Photo 5). The flow of water created by it at a column height of about 2 m, allows you to collect a full furnace tank in a few minutes. The pump is submerged almost to the bottom of the barrel and hangs on a piece of silicone hose. The e-mail is also attached to it with nylon ties-straps. wire (Photo 6). The length of the standard pump wire is enough to pull the mains plug out of the barrel – no need to fiddle with sealing.
A short soft silicone hose is attached to the MP tube inside the barrel, at the top of it. A light plastic pump sometimes strives to float as far as the hose allows it – in the future, ballast was suspended from its standard handle – several large galvanized nuts on an aluminum wire.
Photo 5. Local submersible pump for filling the furnace tank.
Photo 6. Position of the pump in the storage tank. The furnace tank filling sensor is a contact, reed switch with a magnet floating in the float. In the case of “down” (Photo 2), the normally closed reed switch contacts open when the float rises. I soldered the shortened standard sensor leads to the prepared ends of a soft two-core “network” wire in double insulation, insulated the soldering and cutting points with thermal tubes. The wire led to the barrel along the pipe already fixed on the ceiling of the MP – fastened them with nylon ties (Photo 3, 4).
The mains plug of the pump was cut off and the wire extended.
Near the storage barrel I found a convenient place for the circuit breaker – at chest level, near the barrel and sockets.
Automatic pump control.
In principle, the passport power of the reed switch contacts in the sensor made it possible to include them directly in the pump power circuit, however, bearing in mind the tendency of Chinese manufacturers to exaggerate the advantages of their technology, I used an additional relay unloading sensor contacts. Among other things, it became possible to start the process with a button and, in general, increased the reliability of the device. Important – in the circuit, the sensor is galvanically isolated from the network. The principle of operation is semi-automatic – with manual start. Moreover, the process is better and easier to control. For example, self-automatic addition of a bucket of cold water to the tank will greatly reduce its overall temperature, up to the next furnace. With the described scheme, more or less hot water is always ready.
Fig. 7 Automatic pump switch. Electrical schematic diagram. The schematic diagram of the circuit breaker (Fig. 7) was born, largely based on the found elements – a relay, a power supply unit, an on indicator.
Scheme Operation – when the SB1 “Start” button is pressed, the mains voltage is supplied to the M1 pump and to the power supply unit. The reduced and rectified voltage (about 19 V under load) turns on the K1 relay and then with its normally open contacts K1.1 blocks the SB1 start button, the machine works when it is released. The low voltage indicator lamp HL1 indicates the pump is on. If the calculated water level in the tank is exceeded, the float of the filling sensor floats up (Photo 2), its K2 reed switch opens (Fig. 7), the power supply circuit of the K1 relay breaks, its contacts K1.1 open, the M1 pump and the power supply unit are de-energized.
Machine parts – SB1 button – old limit switch, with powerful contacts, soft and precise actuation. Relay K1 – RP 21 with a 24 V coil. Everyone is fine, but it has leads for installation in a socket-socket – they should be soldered quickly and with a powerful, well-heated soldering iron. Both groups of contacts are connected in parallel. Any low-power power supply unit for the required voltage, a repaired unregulated transformer network adapter is used here. The indicator lamp was found in a good comfortable fittings, hence the type of indicator and the place of installation, although it is more appropriate to have a mains voltage indicator connected in parallel to the M1 pump, for example, a neon lamp with a current-limiting resistor.
The construction of the machine of the wall switch. Large elements – the power supply and the relay are fixed on a small plate with tin clamps, the start button and indicator lamp are installed on the front wall of the protective casing of the device.
Self-made clamps, cut with metal scissors from galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.45 mm. Two-piece heavy PSU mount (Photo 8-10). I removed the standard power supply plug and soldered a pair of soft mounting wires to the mains winding of the transformer and brought out the plastic case. The resulting opening was filled with hot melt glue (Photo 8, 9).
Photo 8. Clamp for fixing the power supply.
Photo 10. PSU fixed on the wooden base of the machine. < img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Simple semiautomatic device - pouring water into the oven tank" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1608876061_11.jpg"/>
Photo 11. Pump circuit breaker without casing cover. The protective casing of the machine was bent from a reamer cut out with metal scissors. The material is the same galvanized steel. The walls of the casing are fastened with blind rivets. I drank the holes for installing the button and indicator lamp with a jewelry jigsaw.
The start button does not have a special fastening for the front panel (limit switch), I had to make it myself from several long screws and an additional piece-plate (Photo 12). Soldering with tin-lead solder with “soldering acid” (zinc chloride). Wash the place of soldering from flux residues.
Photo 12. Button fastening device. The base of the machine is screwed to the log wall with a pair of self-tapping screws, the wires from the pump and the level sensor are routed along the wall and connected to the circuit elements (Photo 13). After checking the functionality, the circuit is covered with a casing. Practice has shown the efficiency and convenience of the solution and execution.
Photo 13. View of the mounted circuit breaker.
Photo 14. View on a triggered level sensor in a hot water tank.
Photo 15. Babay Mazay, December b, 2020