Hello, dear readers and DIY !
In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “Fix This Build That” will tell you about the technology of making three types of profiles for frames for paintings and photographs. < br> Such frames can be made even in a small carpentry workshop.
Materials necessary for home-made.
– Boards of pine, oak and mahogany – Sheet plywood, self-tapping screws for wood
– Acrylic varnish, wood glue, masking tape, sanding discs with Velcro.
Manufacturing process .
Three varieties of wood will participate in the project: pine, oak and mahogany.
The first thing that the author does when making the first frame is assembling an additional stop for the miter saw. This is a necessary step if we want the frame to be smooth and neat.
The material for the stop is half-inch plywood sheets, which are screwed at an angle of 90 degrees. The fundamental point is that the heads of the screws should be on the outer side in relation to the path of the saw.
The master prepares the pilot holes with a wood drill with a countersink, and twists the strips with self-tapping screws.
Most miter saw models have holes on the stop for an additional stop. The author will use them when installing the second stop.
Then the saw blade rotates at 45 degrees to the left, after which the initial cut is made at the very stop.
Before starting work, it is advisable to carry out a series of trial cuts to make sure everything is checked correctly.
Now, several marks are drawn on the plywood emphasis itself with a pencil. Brad saw this carpentry trick in a video from his colleague John Peters.
For the first frame there is a pine plank 25 × 50 mm long 244 see it is cut in half. Thus, from one such bar you can get 2 frames 8X10.
Then a hand milling cutter with a folding cutter, previously set at half its maximum reach, on the workpiece filmed “quarter” under a picture under glass.
Then the cutter is set to the full distance (10 mm), and the second pass is made to obtain a full fold under the glazed picture.
After that, the board is cut into two halves again.
As you know, when making frame parts, three parameters should be taken into account: the outer length of the frame, the inner length of the frame and the length of the fold itself.
The last dimension must be observed very carefully so that as a result a glazed picture can fit in the prepared cutout.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1608984478_pfr-095.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> And here, instead of making a whole series of calculations, you can simply align the outer edge of the fold with a previously made mark on the stop, moreover, of the size that you require. This will give us a notch with just the right parameters. This is the beauty of such reference marking lines.
The author places two cuts of the board one on top of the other and in one motion cuts them at an angle of 45 degrees. The ten-inch sides of the frame are ready.
Then the same actions are repeated for the other two eight-inch sides.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1608984547_pfr-122.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> Gluing of all ready-made frame elements is carried out using cuts of masking tape, which are placed under the outer corner sides of each part, just in those places where the connection will take place.
The frame is glued, folded and the last corner is fixed with adhesive tape. Titebond wood glue is used for gluing.
Additionally, each corner is pasted over with tight adhesive tape for better fixation.
However, this is not enough. To strengthen the connection at the corners, the master uses such corrugated braces. They are driven across two elements.
True, they are not always easy to deal with. There are such disappointments! The key point here is their position relative to the material: it must be strictly perpendicular. And the hammer must be lowered strictly vertically, without any displacement to the side.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Three ways of making frames for pictures and photos" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1608984474_pfr-171.jpg"/> < a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2020-12/1608984553_pfr-174.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> To give the pine wood a rich deep hue, the craftsman covers it with MinWax stain. Previously, he tries different shades of paints on scraps of wood and opts for the shade “espresso”.
The paint is applied in three layers to achieve the desired degree of saturation.
After the paint has dried, the frame is additionally sprayed with a quick-drying aerosol satin varnish.
The next frame will be made of hardwood – oak. In addition to a milling cutter and a miter saw, a third tool will also be involved in its production – a circular saw.
On the end part of the timber, the author marks the contours of the profile. In the future, such markings will help him to correctly align the saw blade.
The first step will be sawing the chamfer on the inside. To do this, the saw blade is tilted to an angle of 15 degrees. The stop is placed at a distance of 0.5 inches from the saw blade.
For the convenience and safety of work, the author installed a side petal clamp.
Now it’s the turn for the fold where the art canvas or glass will be placed. To do this, the saw blade is raised ¼ inch. Measurement is performed with such an angular ruler.
In this case, the stop is pushed close so that the saw blade clings to the outer edge of the line marked for the seam.
For the second cut, the workpiece is placed on its side, and the emphasis moves to the saw blade exactly as much so the blade aligns with the first scribe line.
The front part of the profile is cleaned with cycles.
And only after that you can go to the trimming saw. And here, do not forget to carefully align the outer edge of the fold with the marking lines before making the final cut.
An error crept into the calculations, and one of the frame parts turned out to be a little shorter. But nothing, and this small frame will go into action.
To fix the finished parts into a whole frame, the author uses this time a tape clamp, which allows you to distribute pressure evenly around the entire perimeter of the frame.
After the glue has dried, it is advisable to additionally strengthen the corners of the structure with dowels, since the corrugated braces will not enter the oak wood.
With the help of this carets fitted to the stop of the circular saw, the master puts the frame in a vertical position with a corner downwards, and makes a slot in each corner.
Then he cuts a stripe of suitable thickness from oak wood, which would clearly fit into the sawn slot. On this segment he marks 4 small triangles and cuts them out on a band saw.
The bases of the triangles are aligned on the sanding block for a snug fit.
The dowels are glued and inserted into slots to the maximum depth so that there is not the slightest gap left .
After the glue dries, the protruding parts of the dowels are cut with a Japanese saw. Here it is important to cut along the fibers, and not against them, otherwise there is a high probability that you will chip off a corner.
The finished frame is processed with an orbital sander.
Then two layers of white paint are applied. And after they dry, the surfaces are additionally treated with acrylic varnish.
In the process of manufacturing the third frame, a milling machine will be involved. The material will be mahogany wood. First, a rounded cutter is used.
In two approaches, with a gradual increase in the cutter overhang, a smoothed bend is made on the inner side of the future frame.
This is such a 3D safe pusher the wizard uses.
Then a straight cutter is installed, and along the previous cut, another one is made at 1/8 inch. Together, both folds create an elegant smooth relief with a small threshold in the middle, thus they seem to set off each other.
The cutout for glass and the picture itself can be made with the same straight cutter.
Now all surfaces are processed with 220th sandpaper. For convenience, you can even wrap a wooden dowel with it, and thus carefully go through all the rounds and bends.
Then, according to the scheme already described, the angles are cut at 45 degrees on the miter saw.
It remains to glue the joints, and fix the frame in the tape clamp.
Finally, the master covers the product with a transparent satin varnish, which gives the already spectacular texture of mahogany light gloss.
Tools used by the author.
– Manual router
– Insert plate with rings for milling table
– Router bits for wood
– Bit set MC02033
– Screwdriver, wood drills with countersink
– Orbital sander
– Circular saw
– Circular Saw Blade, 3D Safety Pusher
– Miter Saw
– Band Clamp
– Spring Clamps, F-Clamps
– Japanese Saw, Scraper
– Pliers, Hammer
– Combined Angle Ruler
– Square, tape measure, pencil.
Thanks to the author for the master class on making frames for paintings and photographs.
All New Year mood, good health, and interesting ideas!
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