Together we will” make beautifully “.
Initially, there was an idea to paint the airplane using stencils, which we have done many times before. Film But there is a nuance as they say.
In previous projects we drew lines, that is, rather simple drawings. The technology for their application is quite simple. We beat off the drawing with a special tape for painting cars, we glue it along the edge of the drawing, cover all the space that cannot be painted with paper or wide masking tape. We cheerfully paint the necessary places in color from spray cans.
By the way, this was my first experience with aerosols. But he did it.
In this version, it was not necessary to cover the black plastic with fluorescent paint. The airplane turned out to be beautifully white with black accents.
The cockpit light pumped up a little. The print is not quite even.
Therefore, I had to sand for a long time with sandpaper of different grain sizes. There is also a way to iron the printed surface with a special iron. Melting bumps and smoothing the surface of the plastic. But we didn't have such a device at hand, we don't know the technology of melting and ironing. Therefore, the surface was brought out with handles and a skin.
For better adhesion to plastic, it was degreased with anti-silicone. They blew out a primer on the plastic. After drying the first layers of black spray.
The preliminary stage seems to be over.
Some questions remain.
Twenty minutes have been allotted for reflection.
Tea time is shorter.
At one time he worked quite a lot with this film.
Depending on the working conditions, there are two methods of gluing the film.
Dry and wet.
With the dry method, the film is glued to the surface of the plastic previously cleaned from dirt and dust, which is what we are considering in this case.
There are some rules.
Firstly, the room temperature should be clearly above 20 degrees. A clean environment is desirable. When applied dry, the plastic and the film are highly electrified and it is very possible for dust to get under the drawing. It is very difficult to remove grains from under the film. But it is good to paste over curved surfaces, sticks to the surface immediately and firmly, it is possible to slightly warm up the film with a hairdryer, tighten, paste over a curved surface. It is necessary to be extremely careful and careful, since it is almost impossible to correct a crookedly pasted drawing. We'll have to completely redo it. This method is mainly used to paste over cars .
The second method is “wet”.
A weak aqueous solution of soap or Feri is applied to the previously cleaned surface.
It is desirable to use with a puller tuned for the finest possible atomization. In short, do not pour like a bucket.
Then the film is placed in the right place and leveled. The main thing is not to press strongly against the surface. The water film will prevent it from sticking right away and you can move the picture, remove it, adjust the position again.
Then, with a plastic squeegee, the image is smoothed to the surface from the edge. Smooth with a wave squeezing out the air and the remaining water. Even at this stage, the film can still be removed neatly and re-glued. In case of wet gluing, it is finally glued in a few hours. It is necessary to carefully squeeze out water and rub the edges, they can rise during the drying process.
If there is an air bubble under the film, pierce it with a needle and try to squeeze it out through the hole.
So there is a picture printed on paper, I glue it on the film with an adhesive pencil and start the process.
Can be cut out pattern or pasted completely with paper. It's up to you to decide what is more convenient.
I will cut with my knives for design work.
It is also possible with a scalpel with replaceable blades. They are very sharp. But the handle is not very comfortable. flat. When cutting small patterns, it is more convenient to round. Sometimes you have to roll the knife a little in your hand.
If you manage to insert the blade into the round knife clamp …. I succeeded :).
Link to scalpels .
The blade is better to take number 11
Reference to the round handle of the knife .
It would also be nice cutting mat .
But I didn't have a rug in my model. Therefore, I cut it on linoleum. This is also possible, it is soft, it has no cutting accuracy, especially in thin areas of the image.
I start cutting in parts and immediately remove the unnecessary film.
Then I cut out the inner parts and also delete them immediately. So it is better to see where it has already been cut.
A few tips for beginners.
– It's better to start cutting from the inner parts. the outside of the film will hold the drawing. –
– Then we cut along the contour. Be very careful, otherwise thin lines may come off.
– When cutting it is important to feel when the blade is against the backing of the film and you are cutting only the top layer. That is, one film, and not all together with the substrate. You can practice on unnecessary pieces. Since the blade is very sharp and it is quite difficult to feel this edge.
– We cut all the inner corners from the corner, otherwise there will be gaps at the intersection.
I don't care how to cut, I have experience :).
After the cut out picture, I separate the drawing … The glue from the pencil does not remain on the film and you can stick a piece of paper again.
Then I separate it with an adhesive film drawing from the backing. To do this, I rub the overlay film strongly against the image. Sometimes the tips of the design will not stick or separate from the backing. You can gently help with a knife blade. But it is better to start the separation from the bandwagon with thick lines.
After a successful separation, you need to transfer the picture on the wing.
For the sticker I use the “semi-dry method”.
A damp cloth.
I wipe the place on the wing where the drawing is supposed to be pasted, remove dust particles and so on. Then, carefully without pressing down, I position the emblem. I press the edge of the film and glue it, keeping the other edge of the canopy. Then I rub from one edge to the other, trying to prevent air bubbles from getting under the film. I glued it in place, rub it hard with a damp cloth through a transfer film. It glides well in this state.
I remove the sticky film by gently bending it back at an angle. If the elements of the picture are not glued enough and rise with the film. I put everything back and rub it heavily on top. No result, I help to separate the picture from the sticky film with a knife blade.
The picture is transferred to the wing, once again I gently rub it on top with a damp cloth. I make sure that there are no bubbles under the film. If I find it, I carefully puncture it and squeeze air out through the hole.
Then the second bird to another wing. < br>
Bam! Cut out two identical pictures. On the wings, the birds should look in different directions. redoing. I cut out the third bird in obverse mode.
On the lower wing surface of a bird made of blue film.
Bird ultramarine colors.
And small decorative elements on the surface.
I cut the triangles along the ruler with a simple clerical knife. True, a new sharp blade. I cut along with the substrate, the element is not very complicated. I wipe the surface with a damp cloth, then I simply separate the triangle from the substrate and, without any sticky film, I just put it in place with my hands. I press the top with a damp cloth.
The wings are ready at the bottom.
Red triangles at the top.
And the tail has plumage on both sides, red and blue.
It is necessary to embellish the side of the fuselage a little more.
I cut out a wavy red triangle.
Board number. The first layer of numbers from the blue oracle. Then I transfer it to shiny tape and cut it along the contour. I stick it on the sides.
“Russian rocket number 17” Remember?
And also … on the wheel fairings in red …
What happened as a result.
The last … cockpit canopy cover.