Greetings, DIY !
From this article you will learn how to do it yourself to make an unusual bar stand.
Further instructions are taken from the YouTube channel “Likhoy Topor”. To bring the idea to life, the author needed: an oak slab, a box of alcohol and a bucket of epoxy.
Such an oak slab, or, more simply, a wide non-edged board will serve as the basis of the future bar counter.
Place the slab on the CNC machine, which will be used to perform the initial calibration. In order to accurately align the board around the entire perimeter, you must use the correct cutter. Then pass by pass, layer by layer, and so we do until we get a perfectly flat workpiece.
After you have received a perfectly flat workpiece at the first stage, you can start decorating the bar counter. To do this, we take a box (in this case, a package, or rather a box that fits in a package) of elite and not very alcoholic, and then we lay out the bottles in a chaotic manner.
The master tried to arrange the bottles so that they overlap knots and other wood flaws.
When everything is laid out in its place, we take a photo from above.
The next step is to outline each bottle in order to make a selection in the tree later.
Now you need to make niches for bottles. We will do this with the help of a spiral cutter and CNC, starting from the photo that we took earlier.
As you can see, each niche is individual, and made for a specific bottle (beaker, fufirk, check, as they are not called).
At this stage, it remains to remove the pile and slightly process the edges with a dremel.
In order to evenly grind difficult places, there is a special machine.
The principle of its operation is quite simple and clear (the processing process, as well as the result, is shown in the images below):
The base is now ready for pouring. It remains to prepare the filler. Analyzing his past projects, the master came to the conclusion that glass disappears in epoxy resin, or rather becomes invisible, and most of the labels are saturated with resin and become unpresentable. Therefore, to avoid this kind of trouble, it was decided to protect the labels pasted on the bottles before filling. To do this is quite simple, you need to cover them with a matte varnish. No, well, not necessarily matte, glossy will do, just the author had just matte varnish at hand.
The bottles, of course, must be fixed in some way (you can glue them) so as not to blow them out with air during the application of a protective layer of varnish … Only after that they can be safely blown out with varnish.
By the way, matte varnish becomes matte as it dries. That is, immediately after application, the matte composition is ideally glossy, and after drying it acquires its dullness.
In the meantime, the glossy varnish becomes matte, let's start with the formwork. We will make it out of plastic.
The author uses this plastic quite often. It is very convenient to make this kind of structure from this material for such projects. Specifically, it is 1mm thick PET plastic. As mentioned earlier, this is a very handy thing. There is no need to fiddle with scotch tape and kill a lot of time.
Spread the plastic on the working surface – this will be the base of the formwork.
Next, put a wooden tabletop on the base of the laid plastic.
Remember that epoxy is very fluid, so do not forget to thoroughly coat the entire perimeter with silicone sealant, you cannot do without it.
Now all that remains is to turn the wooden blank, and the formwork is ready.
As a result, it was decided to fill upside down, which means that the bottom side will be the top, that is, the front. In order for the bottles not to stick out above the level of the tree, first of all we spill the initial layer, which will give us a margin of thickness and the opportunity to calibrate the front side again. Fill this layer and leave the workpiece alone, wait for the composition to set.
When the first layer of resin has cured, place the bottles in their places.
So that the bottles (along with the contents) do not float during pouring and do not rise above the wooden part of the tabletop, but are strictly in their places, we fix them in this way, using hot melt glue.
The filling process will take place in several stages. For this, it will be necessary to prepare various formulations. For these purposes, the author recommends using a resin called Crystal Epoxy from Artline. Since the fill layer will be small, and this resin takes 24 hours to fully cure, this is great for this project.
It was decided to slightly tint one of the layers with blue dye. The image below clearly shows the streaks. This is the difference between the two components. So, the resin must be mixed until such stains are completely gone.
Then the composition must be poured into a new clean container and thoroughly mixed again. Only after this will the resin meet all the characteristics stated on the packaging.
It was decided to fill this sky-blue layer in such a way as to fill the niches with bottles exactly to the middle. This is necessary in order to ultimately get the intended effect (you will see it when the last layer of resin is cured).
At this stage, it will not be superfluous to remove air bubbles for prevention purposes. This can be done with a hair dryer.
That's it, the first layer has been poured, we leave it for a day until complete polymerization.
The next day you can remove the sticks, now the bottles are perfectly fixed in place and will not go anywhere. Getting ready for the next – final layer.
To fill the final layer, use the same composition, but this time tint the resin harder and bluer. The result is a richer blue color. Now we need to fill the niches to the brim.
After 2 hours, when the resin has become thicker, add a few drops of white dye directly to the filled niches and make stains with a toothpick.
As a result, after the bar is upside down, these stains should look so good and accentuate the contour of the bottles, which, as mentioned earlier, disappear in the transparent resin. As conceived by the author, these streaks should again give the bottles volume, but all this is in theory, and what will turn out in the end, we will see soon.
The next day we disassemble the formwork.
In general, we can say that the artist managed to get the intended effect. Now all that remains is to calibrate the front side. To do this, go back to the CNC.
After the cutter, all that remains is to sand the surface, and the final stage is to cover the tabletop with transparent varnish.
Thank you for your attention. Until next time!
Greetings, DIY !