Hello dear readers and DIY !
Many of you probably know such a widespread gaming device as air hockey.
This game was invented in the late 1960s, and quickly gained popularity, and even the WTHA (World Table Hockey Association) championships are held.
The table for the game is a large smooth surface (surrounded by sides) with many small holes through which air exits. This creates an air cushion under the washer, causing it to float above the surface, resulting in virtually no friction. Accordingly, the speed of the flying puck can be very high.
Two players participate in the game, the first roll is determined by lot. The goal of the game is to drive the puck into the opponent's goal, serving it with a special bat. The first player to score 7 goals is considered the winner. More details about the rules and tactics of the game can be found, for example, in Wikipedia.
In this article, Bob, the author of the YouTube channel “I Like To Make Stuff”, will tell you how he made a table for air hockey.
This project is relative easy to manufacture – you can repeat it in a small carpentry workshop, or order parts at a furniture factory.
Materials necessary for homemade.
– Bits and washers for air hockey
– Centrifugal fan “snail”, 12V 2.4A
– Engine speed regulator
– Power supply 12V
– Board, sheet plywood, wood screws
– Plastic water pipe, corner, plugs
– Silicone sealant, two-component second glue, wood glue
– Spray paint, primer, sandpaper, masking tape.
Tools used by the author.
– Screwdriver < br> – Wood drills with countersink, Forstner drills
– Engraving machine (dremel)
– Support platform (locator) for dremel
– Electric neiler
– Circular saw, miter saw
– Digital Height and Depth Meter
– Bandsaw, band saw blades, orbital sander
– Angle clamp, F-clamps, spring clips, chisels
– Swenson's square, tape measure, compasses, marker.
Full-format tables have a very large playing field, and the option for children – 222 × 168 cm.
Reduced models have dimensions of 182 × 89 cm or 145 × 89 cm.
The material for the air chamber will be two sheets of 3 mm plywood. One of the sheets is covered on one side with a layer of melamine – this will be the work surface. Also, an aluminum composite panel is suitable as an excellent material for the tabletop.
So, two identical rectangular blanks are cut out of plywood sheets.
In addition, you will need a pair of boards 25 × 150 mm for the full length of the table, plus two short sides with a gate. Parts for the sides are measured with a small margin (+40 mm to the dimensions of plywood rectangles), and cut with a miter saw.
Then, on a circular saw, the saw blade overhang is set to 5 mm so that you can cut the grooves for plywood sheets in each of the prepared parts. To accurately set the saw blade stick out, it is better to use a digital height and depth gauge or a caliper.
However, the slots in the long sides are not made from edge to edge, but a little solid space is left on each side.
In short details grooves are cut along the entire length of the sides.
Short fitting of the tabletop to the side walls.
The rip fence moves slightly by 20 mm, and a second groove is cut in all sides, parallel to the first. Also, the grooves need to be made so wide that plywood sheets can easily fit into them.
On the bottom of both short panels, the outlines of doors 300 mm wide and 20 mm high are marked
The delineated section on both boards is cut on the band saw.
The most laborious part is drilling a lot of holes (for air outlet) in the countertop. Their diameter should be very small – 0.25-1 mm. The grid is laid out in 25 mm increments.
To speed up the process, the master performs it on a CNC milling machine. The same operation can be done manually using a dremel with a support platform, although it will take much more time.
Alternatively, order laser perforation of this panel in any advertising agency. There you can also make it from matte plexiglass, which will make it possible to organize LED lighting from the inside of the table.
Now it's the turn of making game bits. On a cut of plywood 20 mm thick, two circles with a diameter of 100 mm are drawn with a compass. A center is marked on each circle.
The bases of the bits are cut on a band saw with a small allowance, and then finalized to a perfectly round shape on a grinding machine.
These PVC pipe plugs will serve as handles. To give them a smooth shape, the master grinds down the raised letters on the outside.
Using a Forstner drill, small indentations are drilled in the center of each of the two discs to install the handles.
The plugs sit on cyanoacrylate glue.
After the glue hardens, the master applies a layer of aerosol primer to the parts.
Next you need make distance spacers. The author cuts them from pine logs with a section of 20 × 20 mm.
A hardener is applied to the lower part of the future playing field, and the second component of the second glue is applied to the spacers themselves. The bars are attached in random order to the back of the sheet. The only condition is to place them in such a way that they do not cover the holes, and that there is an empty zone in the center.
The bottom panel is applied to the first one, and the center is marked on it.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-01/1611172601_aer-176.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> A hole is drilled in its center for air supply. A plastic corner will be installed in this place.
Then the bottom panel is glued to the spacers. The structure is pressed down from above by the load.
Now dried up game bits are covered with bright blue aerosol enamel.
At the edges of long boards you need to make a sample for installation plywood shield. The emphasis is set to the width of the area to be cut.
The overhang of the saw blade is set to the thickness of the plywood, and a sample is made on the carriage, in several approaches.
First, the author made it by moving the carriage with the board parallel to the disk.
This leaves a lot of defects that need to be removed with a chisel.
It is better to gradually move the carriage forward and move the board perpendicular to the disc from one end of the sample to the other. This will make the surface smooth and will not require processing.
Then two sides with gates are cut off, to the same height.
Now the time has come to connect all four sides of the box, all sides with the playing surface itself. The slots are filled with glue. The parts are aligned, lightly tapped with a mallet so that the panels fit into the grooves.
Since the panels were initially not perfectly flat, several sections were found that did not want to fit into the grooves.
At the corners, the elements are additionally pulled together with corner clamps.
The connections are additionally reinforced with self-tapping screws, for which pilot holes are made with a drill with a countersink bit.
In one the bottom panel is not caught with glue. I had to additionally secure it with a bar.
To ensure greater tightness, the joints can be passed with silicone sealant or liquid nails.
Then segments for the upper part of the gate are cut from 3-mm plywood. Their length should slightly overlap those areas in which cuts were previously made on the main frame.
The panels are glued and fixed with a nailer.
Next, the inside of the gate is measured, and panels of thick plywood are cut out, which should cover these areas.
All elements are assembled again with glue and nails. There should be a notch in the lower part of the compartment through which you can get hammered washers.
Air will be supplied from the vacuum cleaner through a hose and a two-inch pipe.
A 90 degrees. The corner is placed directly above the hole in the bottom panel, and the center of the hole is marked on the side of it.
The hole in the wall is made using a crown or Forstner drill.
The edges of the hole are cleaned with a file, the pipe is pushed into the hole, and a sleeve is put on its end.
The hose adapter must be tightly fitted to the coupling.
After preliminary assembly, all sections of the duct are disassembled, the joints are coated with a plastic solvent, and the parts are connected.
The joint of the corner and the table is coated with a sealant so that air cannot pass through the cracks.
It's time to paint body. The author covers the entire playing field with paper, fixes it with masking tape, but so that the tape does not fall on the sides.
Painting the table black The master performs aerosol paint outdoors.
Further, the washers themselves are made with a diameter of about 80 mm. First, the master makes samples from three different materials – sheet acrylic and two types of plywood.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-01/1611172668_aer-468.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> It remains to attach the vacuum cleaner , and check the washers for volatility. The acrylic washer fits perfectly. Original washers are made from Lexan.
The bases of homemade plywood bits get damaged after a while. If you wish, you can purchase ready-made bits and washers.
You should also glue the inner sides of the table with plexiglass or a thin sheet of aluminum to reduce their damage and improve the rebound of the washer.
It is better to install a beveled panel inside the gate, it will allow the washer to fall into the container, and not bounce on the field.
The most unpleasant moment is the noise emitted by the vacuum cleaner, and the electricity consumption is high.
This problem can be solved by placing it in the bottom parts of the table are several powerful centrifugal fans-snails. Each such fan is powered by 12V at 2.4A. They will need to be connected to an appropriate 12V power supply.
The desired air flow can be controlled by decreasing or increasing the speed of the fans. To do this, you will need to connect a PWM motor speed controller in series.
I thank the author for the master class on making a table for air hockey.
Good mood, good health, and interesting ideas to everyone!
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Author's video can be found here.
Hello dear readers and DIY !