Was it a sauce or was it a stew? It was mole verde, so we weren’t entirely sure. Whatever you call it, it was vibrant green and studded with poached pork and hunks of vegetables. And it was unbelievably good, velvety, salty, and herbal, with just a bit of spice.
Chef Olga Cabrera Oropeza had welcomed us to the terrace kitchen of Tierra del Sol, her stately residence-turned-restaurant, to teach us about something we’d always considered a sauce. But here was another of many examples we’d found in Oaxaca that mole — from the complex, earthy mole negro variety to this simpler bright green triumph — was more than a mere accompaniment.