Hello, dear readers and homemade products !
Camping is not always limited to “going out on a barbecue” – some of you prefer long and detailed trips for several days with the installation of tents. Of course, the weather is not always warm, and you have to use additional devices for heating tents.
Such a stove is quite simple to make without using a welding machine, and materials for it can be purchased in a hypermarket .
Materials required for DIY.
– Stainless steel trays
– Army camping pot
– Stainless steel exhaust hood
– Exhaust hatch with latch
– Stainless steel chimney D60xL320mm
– Furniture hinges made of stainless steel
– Set of bolts, washers, nuts m2 m3 m4 m5
– Eye nuts, steel studs, wing nuts
– High temperature sealant for metal, fire retardant cord, sandpaper.
Tools , used by the author.
– Screwdriver, cobalt drills for metal – – Crowns with carbide tipped – Grinder, cutting disc, flap cleaning
– Set of needle files, file
– Semi-automatic core, open nut wrenches, screwdriver with bit set
– Svenson's square, metal ruler, marker.
Manufacturing process.
So, the main material for the oven body will be stainless steel food trays and lids for them. First of all, the author marks and drills holes with a diameter of 8 mm in the corners of the small tray along with the lid.
The drilled tray is applied to the large tray, and the centers of the holes are transferred to its rim, and the operation is repeated.
Both trays and the cover between them will be connected to each other using eye nuts, m8 bolts, and wing nuts.
A stainless steel chimney with a diameter of 60 is applied to the bottom edge of the small chute and 320 mm long.
Aligning the pipe relative to the edges of the tray, and placing marks, you need to find the center of the future hole.
A bit with carbide taps with a diameter of 60 mm is installed on the drill, and a hole is made in the bottom of the tray for the chimney pipe.
Another detail of the chimney system will be a stainless steel exhaust hood with a diameter of 50 mm. This part is inserted with a cap inside the hole, and the chimney pipe is put on its shank. A 5 mm gap between the socket and the flue pipe will allow the connection to be sealed with a fire-resistant cord.
The decorative hole of the cap widens a little, the excess metal is cut off with a grinder.
Four holes with a diameter of 4 mm are drilled into the skirt of the hood for fastening with m4 bolts.
This part, like some others, is fixed with m4 socket wrench bolts and nuts.
Another small tray is cut into two equal parts, the cut points are deburred.
The resulting parts are connected as follows. This will be a door for the firebox.
On one of the parts, the master cut off the rolled edges so that they would be more tightly joined together.
The door will be attached to the stove body using a stainless steel furniture hinge. On the edge of the door, make a cutout for the hinge.
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Both parts of the door are folded together, and the hinge is pressed against it, holes for the bolts are marked and drilled.
Now the hinge is screwed to the door.
Attaching the door to the side wall of the case, the author outlines its contours. It retreats from the marked lines by 10 mm, and receives the contours of the furnace hole.
Drilled in the corners along the hole, and excess material cut out with a grinder.
The edges of the resulting window are cleaned from burrs with a file.
The adjustable blower will be attached directly to the door, and this hatch with a latch will be part of it.
For the pipe, a hole is marked and drilled in the door with a 30-mm crown.
Also, two holes are made in the door for the m4 bolts, and the air intake is fixed.
The lock will be made of an eye nut and a strip. 8mm holes are made in the door and flag.
A cap nut is screwed onto the end of the stud, a flag is put on, and tightened with a nut … The hairpin is passed through a hole in the door, measured and cut to length.
After cutting the stud, you need to chamfer it, restoring the thread.
Here's a lock turns out, it remains to counter the eye- nut from the outside.
On the back wall of the case, the master installs an overhead panel from the pallet. The wide sides are cut off.
6 coaxial holes are drilled in the body and the pallet.
Long m4 bolts are fixed in the holes, fixed with nuts , and also the limiting nuts on the height of the sides are screwed on. Then the panel is fixed to the case.
Surplus bolts are cut from the inside.
On the front wall of the case, you can make a viewing window of fireproof glass.
For this, a rectangular window and holes for bolts are cut out.
The glass is fixed in a special frame.
there are four legs made of bolts to it. The main structure of the furnace is ready.
Bolt holes are made in the corners of the door, and the fire-resistant cord is attached along perimeter.
The ends of the cord are tied with wire. As a result, the gap between the door and the body was eliminated.
An additional shield is attached to the top of the partition. It will reduce the distance to the lid, thereby allowing more heat to be transferred from the escaping hot air to the lid.
It remains to make a stand for the stove. Four 250 mm long m8 studs will serve as uprights.
In a pallet of a suitable size (it will serve as the basis ) counter holes are made for the racks.
Racks are screwed to the pallet with nuts from both sides.
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The connection to the pipe is sealed with a fire-resistant cord. The last loop of the cord is pressed against the petals.
A section is cut from the pipe with a length slightly greater than the height of the bell.
A high temperature silicone sealant is applied to the fire cord and a tube is put on.
Between the two posts, the author fixed such a jumper. It is located just below the bottom, and allows you to fix the grill. This is how a removable shelf turns out.
Everything is ready, you can do a test run of the furnace, and boil water in an army camp pot.
The overhead panel serves as a kind of convector.
High temperature may cause gaps between the top cover and the case. The wizard solved this problem by simply drilling a few holes around the perimeter and bolting the parts together.
In the dark, you can clearly see that some parts of the oven are heating up red hot.
I thank the author for the simple and light design of the tent stove.
Good mood, good health, and interesting ideas to everyone!
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The author's video can be found here.
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