In search of Norway’s simple, sensational salmon

One by one, the lobster pots come up empty as our boat bobs through the fjord near Åheim. Fishermen in waterproof gear work in tandem to pull aboard a rope caked with seaweed, restocking each cotton cage with fresh bait before tossing it back into the water. I must be bad luck; the previous week they pulled in a haul worth thousands of dollars.

I’d come to this corner of Norway’s northwest coast to learn the country’s simple approach to seafood — that often the best thing to do is do the least — but I started worrying on this day that with so few fish, that least part was turning out to be literal.


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