One by one, the lobster pots come up empty as our boat bobs through the fjord near Åheim. Fishermen in waterproof gear work in tandem to pull aboard a rope caked with seaweed, restocking each cotton cage with fresh bait before tossing it back into the water. I must be bad luck; the previous week they pulled in a haul worth thousands of dollars.
I’d come to this corner of Norway’s northwest coast to learn the country’s simple approach to seafood — that often the best thing to do is do the least — but I started worrying on this day that with so few fish, that least part was turning out to be literal.
