Hello, dear readers and homemade products!
When making various homemade products and metal structures, it is often required to bend a pipe, strip, bar into an arc or ring. For these purposes, a variety of bending devices and machines are used.
In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “Master Sh” will tell you how he made a small bending machine. The machine shaft will be driven by a screwdriver.
This fixture is relatively easy to manufacture, but it will require a small amount of welding work.
Materials needed for DIY.
– Old car shock absorber
– Steel strip, angle, hairpin
– Spring set
– Screws, washers, nuts
– Support bearings Ω
– Degreaser, spray paint, machine oil.
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So, for the bed, the master uses a thick-walled steel corner 50 × 50 mm. A workpiece with a length of 150 mm is cut from it.
Of course, the dimensions of the machine can be either increased or decreased.
Further, the middle is marked on one of the walls, and centers are punched on each of the halves.
Holes are drilled according to the marking, and an m12 thread is cut into them.
Axes for the pressure rollers will be m12 bolts.
Closer to the edge of the corner, a large hole is also drilled, and a triangular cut is made for the pressure shaft.
An old shock absorber will serve as a source of useful parts for the machine tool.
First of all, the master pulls out the bushing from it and removes the rubber from it.
This ring will serve as a housing for bearings.
Two thick steel strip plates are welded to the ring. To make the plates parallel to the axis, the author fixes them with a magnetic corner.
An additional stand for the axle is welded to the body.
A hole is drilled through both walls of the case for an axle with a diameter of 14 mm.
The axle will be a steel pin. The author deliberately made one of the holes of a slightly larger diameter in order to be able to adjust the position of the axis.
Having passed the pin through the holes, a nut is screwed onto its end (near the hole with a larger diameter).
Next, using a square, an angle of 90 degrees is set relative to the side wall. After that, the nut is welded to the rack.
Now a bushing is put on the axle, and the lever arm is welded to it.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-02/1614067202_sgi-095.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> Bolts are screwed into the holes in the wall, and nuts are screwed onto them from the inside of the case.
The nuts are also welded to the housing wall.
Now you can shorten the axle, and the rest of the steel stud is suitable for clamping.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-02/1614067156_sgi-125.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> The device is temporarily assembled, and such a cut is made on the second arm of the lever.
The stud is inserted into the prepared cutout and welded vertically to the base of the case.
Lever should move freely relative to the stud.
To press the bearings into place, the author uses a homemade press clamp. The production of such a device was described in detail in the recent article .
thrust bearings, and screw them directly onto the one-piece arm.
The rod from the shock absorber will serve as a shaft. The author pushes it to the maximum length and cuts it off with a grinder.
Both ends are aligned using a grinder with a belt grinding adapter .
At one end, the author forms a hexagon, for ease of fixing in the screwdriver chuck, or end key head. He used a bolt as a reference, centered its head, and outlined the contours. This is followed by precise work with a cutting disc.
After fixing the shaft in the chuck of the screwdriver, its surface is ground.
The author takes one more the same bearing as the ones already installed, and checks the tight fit on the shaft.
Press-in bearings are protected with masking tape, the surfaces of the lever are degreased and painted with spray paint. For the paint to hold better, it is recommended to apply it on a slightly warmed surface. For example, before painting, the workpiece can be warmed up on a heating radiator.
Before painting the body, the thread on the stud must be protected.
All parts are ready, you can assemble the device.
The author has prepared in advance on one of the ends of the stud a slot for a flat slot. So the axle can be screwed flush with the side wall of the case with a regular flat screwdriver.
Two assemblies of ZZ bearings are installed on the outer side of the caseslightly smaller diameter. Both assemblies are bolted to the body. Washers are placed between the housing and the bearings.
The bending radius of the part will be controlled by the position of the shaft relative to the rollers. The lever will be pressed with an elongated nut. An enlarged washer is placed under the nut. The shaft itself is easily enough inserted into the bearings, and can be removed from either side.
Almost everything is ready, you can screw the bending device to the edge of the workbench.
In order for the lever to automatically return to its original position when unscrewing the nut, the author puts a compression spring on the stud .
To check the device in operation, the author tries to bend a steel strip.
After each run of the workpiece, tighten the clamping nut slightly.
The strip bends very well, and such a ring turns out.
The next material will be aluminum tube.
Almost all such bending devices have a slight drawback. Both ends of the workpieces remain straight for a length equal to the distance from the shaft to the rollers. Therefore, the material should be taken with a margin of length. This effect is seen very well here.
The rough edges of the tube are folded together and cut.
Thanks to the author for a simple but useful bending device for the workshop!
Tools used by the author.
– Semi-automatic core, pliers
– Ratchet tap holder, tap
– Geifer grip, vice
– Welder's magnetic corners
– Svenson's square, tape measure, marker
– Screwdriver, drills for metal
– Grinder, cutting disc, flap cleaning
– Belt grinding adapter for grinder
– Welding machine, wire welding.
Good mood, good health, and interesting ideas to everyone!
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Author's video can be found here.
Hello, dear readers and homemade products!