Hello, dear readers and self-made people!
In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “HomeMadeModern” will tell you about making a rather simple, and at the same time strong bed.
This project is quite simple to manufacture, does not require complex machine tools, and materials for it can easily be found in a hardware store.
Materials required for homemade products.
– Sheet plywood 20 mm
– Pine board 20 × 200 mm
– Felt pads for furniture legs
– Wood screws, wood glue Titebond II, sandpaper.
Tools used by the author.
– Digital goniometer
– Hand circular saw
– Screwdriver, wood drills with countersink – Orbital sander – Electric jigsaw
– Metal spring clamps, roller, brush
– Svenson's square, tape measure, as a rule, marker.
The author has kindly shared a drawing of parts for the product. This drawing can also be downloaded as a .pdf file from the following link.
The number of slats (E) will depend on the size of your bed and the distance between the slats. The recommended distance is 3 inches (76 mm).
Unsuitable for our realities, the imperial system (inches, etc.) I will translate into an understandable metric – millimeters. I leave the data in the table as it is.
The bed frame will be made of 20 mm plywood and 50 × 200 mm pine boards. A hand-held circular saw and a Svenson square are used to cut the beams to size.
The latter serves as a guide.
Before cutting the plywood sheet, place boards under it.
To make long cuts along a plywood sheet, a guide board is fixed on the latter using spring clips.
When cutting A3 parts with projections, a pair of cuts is made towards, not to the end of the plywood strip.
Then he connects two adjacent cuts with an oblique line and makes a final cut with an electric jigsaw.
For long support beams, the author is going to glue two layers of plywood (pairs of parts A1 and A3). Wanting to displace them relative to each other by about 15 mm, the master temporarily screws on the bottom sheet A1 with screws two pieces of plywood, just 15 mm wide.
Then glue is applied and both boards are folded and fixed at the ends with spring clips.
Additionally, both panels screwed with 30 mm self-tapping screws.
To apply glue only to the junction, the author first connects the parts to each other and draws a line.
The resulting 15-mm overlap will serve as a step on which the lamellas supporting the mattress will lie.
When assembling the side supports/collets, the craftsman takes into account the less aesthetic seamy and neater front side of the plywood panel, tries to unfold the material with the beautiful side outward.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-02/1614287583_plb-078.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> To make the bed strong, two cutting a board (A4 parts).
Through the board into plywood is driven by long 65-mm self-tapping screws.
However, for sections of plywood that are thinner, and which will serve as a bed for lamellas, you should use shorter, 50 mm self-tapping screws.
The same operations are performed with the second part.
Now you need to unscrew the screws and remove the restrictive plates. They have already fulfilled their function.
And now we have two reinforced longitudinal drawers with two built-in side tables.
These elements are connected with jumpers. They consist of a pair of plywood pieces B1 and B2, and boards B3.
The boards are cut to such length that they overlap the plywood joints, and thus can give the corners of the structure considerable rigidity.
First of all, parts B1 and B2 are glued together.
When the glue has set, the elements are removed and glued to the longitudinal sides. If you want to get a collapsible design, you can use self-tapping screws.
The crossbars are cut so that they overlap the side projections on which the lamellas will rest. The same 65 mm self-tapping screws are used to screw plywood and boards together.
After the glue has set, you can turn the frame to its normal position and cut the edge at the headboard at an angle.
This is necessary for so that later it was possible to screw such steel legs-supports to the bed. They will at the same time support the head of the bed at an angle of 30 degrees. Such a tilt of the headboard is good because it provides an optimal body position for reading or working at a laptop.
To trim excess The author again uses a guide board and sets the circular saw blade at an angle of 30 degrees and easily cuts through two layers of plywood.
To make the headboard, the master cuts another plywood sheet in the middle so that the width of each half is 600 mm. These are the details of S.
Then both halves are glued together.
After the glue has dried, a guide is attached parallel to the wide edge of the workpiece. This edge is trimmed at a 30 degree angle.
Then saw the disc is set again at right angles. This time, the side edges of the back are cut so that they are in line with the edges of the side tables.
The base of the bed platform is also cut off.
You can use wood putty to mask cracks and other material flaws.
The base is almost ready , and the author uses an orbital sander to finish the surfaces and edges of plywood. First, 100 grit abrasive paper is used, then the master brings the grinding to 300 grit. The edges and corners of the base are slightly rounded.
The legs for the bed have a fairly simple design, and they are made of steel strip. You can cook such legs yourself, or order.
Having tried on the legs to the base, pilot holes are drilled in the wood, and the legs are screwed in with self-tapping screws.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-02/1614287561_plb-262.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> You can leave the edges viewable, but if you still want to hide them, you can cut two long plywood planks, cut their edges at a 30-degree angle and screw on the plank on each side of the frame except for the back.
The planks are screwed to boards. All holes with screw caps are closed with wood filler.
Felt pads are glued to the legs so that the legs of the bed can easily slide along the surface of the floor without leaving any scratches.
The bed is turned over and the filled areas are sanded.
Now you can attach the backrest. Self-tapping screws are driven through the rack, and the lower side of the bed platform into the lower end of the back.
Before covering all surfaces with a topcoat, they should be wiped with a dry cloth to remove all thin dust deposited on them after abrasive treatment.
For finishing a lint-free cloth is used. In our case, mineral oil is used as a finish.
The product is applied in a thick layer, left for 10 minutes. Then another layer of paint is applied to those areas that turned out to be dry and also left for 10 minutes.
After which the excess impregnation is removed with a dry cloth.
At the final stage slats are inserted into the frame and the mattress is thrown.
The homemade product is a continuation of the author's furniture project. In a recent article, the master has already talked about making a desk.
This model can be made without tables, and the back can also be removed.
I thank the author for a master class on making a platform bed from available materials.
Good mood, good health, and interesting ideas to everyone !
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The author's video can be found here.
Hello, dear readers and self-made people!