Hello dear readers!
In this article I want to show you the process of creating a decorative windmill and I will try to give you a detailed step-by-step description of how it happened. The project itself is quite simple in its complexity. Creation time in my case – 13-15 hours of work in three days.
For work I needed, from the tools:
-circular saw with the ability to tilt the disc,
-screwdriver with various drills,
– marking tool,
– burner for wood,
– varnishes and stain.
So, let's start …
I decided to make the mill body and the lower part of it from planks. On the front and back parts of the body, a board with a size of 250 * 20mm went, while the side ones were made of a board from a Euro pallet. The base was also made from a 25th plank. Having drawn a marking on the board 250 * 20, with a slight bias in both directions, I sawed out two such blanks. They turn out in the shape of a trapezoid. For a smoother cutting line, I made a jigsaw guide, namely a strip with an even side. Using self-tapping screws, I fixed it at a distance of 3.1 cm from the cutting line. 3.1 is the distance from the center of the jigsaw blade to the edge of its sole. When working with a jigsaw, he rested the edge of the sole against the guide, which did not allow the tool to wiggle. As a result, he drank evenly. This is the front and back of the mill.
The sides are straight, in the form of a rectangle. After the components of the mill body were made, I moved on to making the base. It is in the form of a quadrangle and wider than the lower part of the mill body. For what you need to find out later. The ends of the blanks were sawn off at an angle of 45 degrees.
After the manufacture of all the main parts, we proceed to assembly. The parts were fastened together with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes for them. I attach a 4 mm plywood board to the upper part of the base. In the future, the upper part of the mill will be installed on it.
The mill was conceived not only as a decorative element for decorating the site, but also as a small lamp, a night light, which should illuminate a small area. So instead of making fake windows, they will be real. Using a paper drawing, I transfer the shape of the window to the workpiece. So that you can cut out the windows themselves, I drill holes for the jigsaw file. All this was done on an already assembled part, without disassembling it.
The windows are arched. It seems to me that this is more interesting. Immediately I cut out frames for windows from plywood. I need 3 of them – according to the number of windows. I fasten together 3 pieces of plywood, using a paper stencil I transfer the outlines of the frames to it. I drill holes for the saw and at the same time cut out all the parts completely. Instead of glass, I used thin, but very durable plastic, which used to be in the floor information frame. So that the inner space of the mill could not be seen through them, using a grinder and fine-grained sandpaper, I “hardened” (made matte) the surface of the plastic.
The next step is making the roof. Its base, a triangular component, is made of plywood, but already 12 mm. To begin with, I made 2 triangles. Having connected 2 pieces of plywood, I drew a figure of the required size and cut it out. To do this, I again used the guide. The lower and upper parts are made of rectangular pieces of 4 mm plywood. The part is fully assembled with self-tapping screws. To screw them in, I drilled separate holes so as not to split 9 mm. plywood around the edges, because all fasteners were screwed onto the ends, then almost certainly it would begin to split. Initially, the upper part of the workpiece, i.e. the slopes were completely flat. But during the preliminary assembly, I did not like it very much. It was too empty. Therefore, I decided to attach a visor from one more side. I did not have the necessary size plywood remnants, and I did not cut large pieces into pieces. Therefore, a 9 mm OSB board was used for the side parts of the visor. thick. fixed it inside the part. That part of the slope had to be slightly altered by cutting out a piece to fit the size of this visor. The detail began to have the shape of the letter P. Just a plywood roof is not very beautiful. Sawed small slats across the width of the roof and secured it with a ladder, starting from the bottom edge, to exclude moisture from entering the plywood. Although it is covered with a colorless varnish, but in 1 layer, so extra protection will not hurt. I drilled holes along the edges of the planks and fastened them to the plywood with 1.5 cm self-tapping screws.
The visor was also covered in the same way. It also has a window that will glow. At the end of the work, the edges of the roof will be taken away with decorative plastic corners and will not be visible at all. Now I am making the main part – the axle for the blades. For this I used a 6 mm hairpin. In the front part I made a hole for it. Since the stud is completely threaded, in order to avoid erasing the wooden part, an 8 mm metal sleeve was inserted into the hole. Outside, I reinforced the wall under the axis with a wooden lining, through which this sleeve passed. This is one of the few parts in this project that used glue. Glued and reinforced with self-tapping screws. Through the bushing, I passed the hairpin into the roof. To exclude the movement of the axis of rotation back and forth, I welded on stop washers. My welding work turns out badly enough, but in order for the washers to hold tight and not to burn the tree, my skills were enough. It looks not pretty, but durable, and this is the most important thing! At the rear, the axle is also in the clutch. The hole for it is not through, but the washer does not allow the pin to hit the wooden part.
I cut out a technical hole in the ceiling. The same is at the base of the mill.
As mentioned above, the mill was conceived as a small lamp, therefore, technical holes are provided in it through which wires and LED strips will be laid. They will also be used to replace and maintain all components of the wiring. For more convenient access to the insides, the roof is hinged. For this, two small hinges are installed in the side part. On the opposite side, a clamping angle is installed, which presses the roof to the mill body and does not allow it to open. Install plywood on the uncovered part of the roof and put a ladder. That's it, the roof is almost ready.
It was the turn of the blades. For them, I needed a bar with a thickness of 30 *, 1.5 mm. Having decided on the dimensions, I cut off two pieces of the same length. I look for centers in them and make grooves so that one bar fits into another. I smear the grooves in each bar with glue and after waiting 15 minutes for the glue to dry a little, according to the instructions, I firmly press the parts together. In my case, it is not the duration of pressing that is important, but the initial force that is applied to the parts for several tens of seconds. After 24 hours, the glued parts cannot be torn off without breaking them. The crosspiece is ready. I cut the blade strips. On the crosspiece, I mark the places of their attachment and the distance from each other. For convenience, I mark the center on the cross pieces and strips. I apply glue and fasten with self-tapping screws. Then I give the blades the desired geometry. I make a hole in the middle of the cross for the axle. I proceed to the final finishing. I burn the entire structure with a burner. then I apply a colorless varnish. That's it, the blades are completely ready!
Moving on to the base of the mill. I covered it first with an oak-colored stain, and then with a colorless varnish. I closed all the corners with a decorative plastic corner of a lighter shade, also under a tree. So he sets off the dark base and gives it expressiveness and completeness. I fasten them with boot nails. I mark the places where the holes will be. I make support posts from small blocks, on which the railing-railing will be attached. I adjust their lower part to the size of the holes in the base. Having smeared the bottom of the posts with glue, and pouring it into the holes, I insert them into the grooves. And so on three sides, and the back remains as it is. When the mount dries, I apply varnish to the posts. While it was impossible to work with the base, I made stairs and doors. For the ladder, scraps from some previous project went. He connected two thin sticks together. On them I marked places for through holes and drilled them. I made the crossbars. I put them in the holes in the bars with glue. I tighten it tightly with cash elastics until it dries completely. The doors for the base and attic were made of plywood. With the scorcher, I drew boards and hinges. I applied varnish. Then I installed the crossbars of the fence on the bars. I installed the door.
Previously, “glass” and frames were installed on the window openings. The frames were pre-painted. The glasses were glued and additionally, through the frames, nailed with shoe studs.
And, finally, the final stage – I close the remaining corners on the mill and the roof with corners. In the rear part, I install the ladder with the lower part into the holes, and the upper part I fasten with a self-tapping screw to the roof. The bottom just fits snugly in the grooves. I also installed a ladder on the roof itself. She was going according to exactly the same scenario as the previous one, matches went to the crossbars. The body of the product was fastened to the base with self-tapping screws from the inside.
I install the crosspiece with blades on the axle. First, I screwed on the stop nut so that it was not close to the coupling. Then a wide washer, a crosspiece, a washer again and I press it all with a nut. The rest of the hairpin did not cut off, but screwed a cap nut onto it.
Here's a decorative windmill that will decorate the mother-in-law's yard in spring. It was created as a gift just for her.
I thank everyone who read the article to the end. Hope you enjoyed it.
I wish you success and implementation of your projects! Until next time!
Hello dear readers!