Hello, dear readers and self-made people!
As you know, grinding is one of the important stages in the processing of parts, and in the workshop it is more convenient to perform it using machines or stationary machines.
There are several main types of grinding machines: orbital (sometimes called dish-shaped), belt (recently referred to as “grinder”), and horizontal drum machine. These three types of machines are used to work with planes.
A slightly different type of drum grinder is used to process various bends and grooves, in which the grinding cylinder is located vertically.
In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “Master Sh” will tell you, how can you make such a machine on the basis of a conventional grinder. In this case, the tool itself will not be damaged, and it can be used as intended.
This project is quite simple to manufacture, and easy to repeat in a small home workshop.
Materials necessary for homemade products.
– Sheet plywood, laminated by chipboard
– Elongated nut m14, hairpin, steel angle, wood screws, confirmations
– Plastic Sewer Pipe
– Sandpaper , wood glue.
Tools used by the author.
– Confirmable drills
– Drill bits for wood – – Bulgarian, hand milling cutter – – Hair dryer technical – – Drilling machine – Miter saw
– Set of crowns – Clamps
– Svenson's square, tape measure , marker
– Universal marking planer.
The first step for the machine tool needs to make a working cylinder. For this, the author chose thick sheet plywood. With the help of a crown, on a drilling machine, rounds of the required diameter are cut out of the plywood trim.
The resulting blanks are glued together with PVA glue, and strung on a rod of the same diameter as the centering drill of the crown.
All discs are squeezed together using two F-clamps.
While the glue hardens, the master starts making the machine body. For this, trims of laminated chipboard or plywood are suitable.
Side walls for the body are cut from chipboard strips 140 mm wide. Sawing is carried out on a miter saw, although special precision is not required here, and you can get by with a hacksaw.
Further, using a marking gage, the centers of future holes for fastenings are marked.
In these places, holes are drilled for confirmation. In order for the box to converge accurately during assembly, it is better to use a special confirmation drill, having previously fixed the body parts between themselves with tape or corner clamps.
The side walls are twisted together with confirmations.
Now the quarters are sampled under the lid and the bottom. For this, a hand router with a side stop is used.
In principle, this operation can be dispensed with by screwing overlapped parts.
Rectangular cover and bottom are also cut from chipboard, and their corners are slightly rounded, so that they are not interfered with by the radii in the corners left by the cutter.
An edge is glued to the upper ends of the box walls. The author warms it up with a technical hairdryer, and smoothes it with a bar. Surplus edges are cut off with a knife and the edges are lightly sanded.
Since an active dust removal system is planned, the box must be sealed. The joints of the removable cover with the walls are sealed with foam tape.
Two fasteners for the grinder are cut out of the steel corner. Holes are made in the corners for bolts and screws.
Then holes are drilled in the side walls of the case for a plastic sewer pipe and the tail of the grinder.
A small insert is installed inside the case and screwed on from the bottom.
Corners are screwed to this stand. It is necessary to first mark their location, taking into account the dimensions of the grinder's body, and the location of the holes for the handle on it.
The cylinder just stuck together. A steel pin is screwed into it along its entire length.
Rotating the cylinder with a screwdriver, the master performs grinding and leveling of surfaces.
The hairpin is unscrewed, the contours of the elongated nut m14 are marked on the cylinder. Trying to maintain alignment, a bore hole for the nut is drilled in the cylinder with a feather drill.
The nut is pressed in into place. The author uses a homemade press clamp, which was described in a recent article.
Now you need mark and drill a hole in the housing cover for the grinding drum. The diameter of this hole should be slightly larger than the drum so that dust escapes through the gap between them.
Grinder is bolted to the corners.
The long section of the pipe is cut out. This is necessary not only for effective dust removal, but also to ensure cooling of the grinder itself.
The pipe is inserted into the body so that it passes next to the cooling outlet holes.
A slot is made in the drum parallel to its axis. The edges of sandpaper are tucked into it and fixed. The sandpaper itself must be securely attached to the drum.
Everything is ready, you can close the lid and connect the dust removal system. Her role in the workshop can be perfectly fulfilled by such a specialized vacuum cleaner .
Of course, high rpm in this type of machine is unacceptable and unsafe. So if your Bulgarian does not have speed control, then you should install an additional regulator power.
this model of the machine does not move up and down, as is done in professional devices. This somewhat reduces its effectiveness, and the frequently used abrasive surface wears out faster.
I thank the author for the simple design of a drum grinder based on a grinder.
Good mood, good health, and interesting ideas to everyone!
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Author's video can be viewed here.
Hello, dear readers and self-made people!