Hello dear readers and homemade products!
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-03/1615326408_to-001.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> Many of you have experience in cutting beams, boards, and other wooden materials. It is practically impossible to cut off the end face by hand without special devices.
To solve these problems, modern workshops are equipped with a miter saw. However, not everyone can afford to purchase such a machine, and it is difficult to use it at home.
Of course, there is also a classic joinery called wort. Often they are made of wood or plastic – for this reason, its service life is not very long.
In this article, Viktor Nikitin, the author of the YouTube channel “RotorCore”, will tell you how he made his own kind of miter box that tightly controls the saw blade and the cutting plane. In contrast to the classical version, in this device the inclination of the web can be adjusted in two planes at once, and very complex trimming operations can be performed.
This project is quite simple to manufacture. Despite the welding used in this case, you can do without it.
Materials necessary for home-made.
– Steel angle 63 × 63 × 5 mm
– Elongated nut, washers, stud m8
– Circle cut-off, flap stripping
– Welding wire.
Tools used by the author.
– Drilling machine
– Welding machine, magnetic corners
– Multifunctional guide for drill
– Ratchet tap holder, tap, semi-automatic core
– Caliper, square, marker, vise, file .
A piece of steel angle 63 × 63 mm, rib thickness 5 mm, will serve as the base of the miter box.
Having completed the markup, the author fixes the corner in a vice and cuts off the workpiece 200 mm long.
Since this part will play the role of a guide and a stop, you need to remove the rounding in the corner. This is necessary so that both inner planes of the corner fit snugly to the 90-degree corners.
Here the same grinder , but with a sharpening disc.
Burrs and small irregularities are removed with a file.
From one wall of the corner, the master forms a platform, a small sill for an emphasis. Marking is done using a square and a caliper.
Dimensions are shown in the following photo.
Next, the center of the future hole for the axis of the turntable is outlined and punched.
The hole is drilled on a drilling machine. Here you need to observe perpendicularity, and instead of the machine, you can use a screwdriver or drill with a special guide .
The edge of the base, near which the hole is drilled, is rounded off.
First, the corners are cut off with a cutting disc, and then they are aligned with a petal.
An m8 thread is cut into the resulting hole.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "How to make a 3D miter box & mdash;" manual "analogue of a miter saw" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-03/1615321874_to-060.jpg"/> A trimmed bolt or m8 stud will serve as the axis.
The hairpin is screwed into the hole and fixed from the upper side with an elongated nut.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "How to make a 3D miter box & mdash;" manual "analogue of a miter saw" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-03/1615321880_to-063.jpg"/> From the side of the sole, hairpin adhered to the base by welding, and the seam is cleaned. The surface of the sole must be flat.
Now we need to make a guide for the hacksaw blade. From the same corner, or steel strip, the master cuts two rectangular plates measuring 63 × 100 mm.
Holes are drilled in the two corners of both plates. In the holes of the first of them, a thread m4 is cut, and in the second plate, a sweep is made for the heads of screws m4.
Washers are inserted between the plates, and both parts are tightened with screws. The thickness of the washers should be slightly larger than the thickness of the saw blade used.
In the resulting gap between the plates and the canvas of the hacksaw will walk.
Next, four identical rectangular blanks are cut out of a 140 × 25 mm strip.
An m8 thread is cut in two parts. In the remaining pair, the holes are reamed to a diameter of 8 mm.
The corners near the holes are rounded off.
Two hinges are assembled from the obtained parts. They are connected with m8 bolts.
The trim from the corner will go for the turntable. You will need a blank with dimensions of 75 × 63 mm. You need to drill an 8-mm hole in it for the axle, stepping back from the narrow side 32 mm.
You also need to round off the edge near the hole.
< a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-03/1615321881_to-138.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> Using a welding machine, the master connects the turntable and the guide through the hinges.
Of course, you can make the base and turntable out of plywood. Then, instead of hinges, you can use ordinary corners. The guide itself should remain the same.
All the details are ready, now the surfaces need to be cleaned and painted .
You can also burnish parts – this coating is scratch-resistant compared to paint. A simple steel burnishing technology was described in detail in a recent article .
So, the device is assembled and ready to work. This is what the outsole looks like with support.
The first degree of freedom is provided by a turntable.
every time you do not measure the desired angle of rotation, in this unit you can adapt such a protractor.
The second degree of freedom – tilt horizontal guideline.
The master carries out the first trial cut at right angles.
As you can see, an angle of 90 degrees was obtained in two planes at once.
Putting the cut ends together again gives an angle of 90.
The pivot of the platform returns to its original position, and now the guide itself is tilted.
Thanks to Victor for the idea of an accurate and durable miter box!
Perhaps an interesting idea to improve the design proposed by the author would be to install magnets instead of using a slotted rail. This idea was detailed in article about magnetic miter box .
But this miter box is offered by the Chinese industry.
Everyone good mood, good health, and interesting ideas!
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The author's video can be viewed here.
Hello dear readers and homemade products!