DIY

Horn burner

Furnace burner Hello everybody!!! Quite recently, I was making myself a mini gas burner for hardening metal and a friend saw and also wanted one for himself, but only with a furnace in the bargain. I agreed for a box of beer for a long time and decided to assemble an injection burner for him, he asked that everything be mobile, since he does not have a forge and he forges in the garage. After assembling the last burner, I still have experience and a drawing with dimensions. This burner is already much larger and more powerful than the last one, I'm even afraid to test it a little. Well, okay, this is still very far. I started assembling the burner spontaneously at work, just free time appeared, and there are more opportunities here than at home. I looked for information on the network again, watched a video approximately, decided on the size and shape from the welders, went and borrowed a propane cylinder with a hose and a reducer for testing. And so I'm getting to work, enough chatting.
Need some material

  1. A piece of pipe 40 mm 20cm
  2. A piece pipes 25mm 10cm
  3. Jet 0.8 mm
  4. Bolt M10
  5. Washer 40mm
  6. Plate 2 cm wide, 20 cm

Required Tools

  1. Drill
  2. Bulgarian
  3. Welding machine
  4. Vise
  5. Hammer
  6. Drills

Getting Started
For the main part of the burner, I took a piece of pipe 40 mm and 2 mm thick. To form the tapering part, I cut the longitudinal stripes with a thick disc, leaving 4 cm from the edge to form the nozzle. After the cuts, I gently tap with a hammer until the edges meet. For further convenience, when working, I tighten everything with a wire and once again make cuts 3 cm from the edge and tighten it again with a wire until the 25 mm pipe fits tightly. After all adjustments, I weld all the seams where I cut and weld a 25 mm pipe and cut off leaving a 10 cm piece. After welding all the seams, I start to form the nozzle, I retreat from the beginning of the slots a centimeter, and cut everything with a thick disc with a hammer so that at the output the inner diameter is 28 mm and I also weld everything with electric welding, well, the whole body of the burner is ready to grind all the seams grinder. I heard a lot of mats from myself, like what I am a “good welder” “in general, welding is not mine with grief in half. Furnace burner Furnace burner Furnace burner  Furnace burner Furnace burner  Furnace burner Furnace burner  Furnace burner Furnace burner  Furnace burner For the formation, I do not know what is the correct name for the expansion where the air enters. To expand, I took a piece of pipe 40 mm 5 cm long and sawed it along 4 cm from the edge, adjusted it to a 25 mm pipe, and welded it, cut it off leaving 4 cm, and welded all the slots. He polished all the seams and started the especially important work with gas recovery. To hold the bolt with the nozzles, I bent an eyelet from the strip of the desired shape, drilled a hole for the bolt and welded it to the burner body. For the injection system, I took an M10 bolt, drilled a through hole of 3 mm, and where there would be a nozzle 4 mm deep equal to the length of the nozzle and hammered it into there by soldering to the bolt. I cut off the head of the bolt to adjust the air supply, use a washer so that the washer runs along the thread, I weld the nut. That's all, I also welded a nut on the ear so that the position of the jet could be adjusted. I put everything in its place the hose is attached to the rest of the bolt m10
 Furnace burner Furnace burner Furnace burner Furnace burner Furnace burner Furnace burner Furnace burner Furnace burner Furnace burner That's all the burner is ready to start testing. During testing, the burner burns stably at a minimum of open air and gas, but as soon as gas or air is added, the flame breaks out, and the burner goes out. In such cases, it is advised to make a sight at the end of the nozzle or put on a tube equal to the outer diameter of the burner, but these two options did not help me in any way. Then I found information on the net that it was necessary to weld a piece of pipe 5mm long equal to the diameter of the nozzle end, but this did not help either. I searched for a long time and found a very interesting video about what to do so that the flame does not break off in the video, the master made six holes stepping back from the edge of the nozzle 4 mm with a diameter of 4 mm with a drill, put a piece of pipe on the nozzle so that the drilled holes did not close this method he called an annular stabilizer flame. I repeated everything and was surprised that such a trifle works. The burner began to work stably, both at low and at high pressures of air and gas, in general, for joy, he burned the entire gas cylinder to make sure that a friend could work with the burner without problems. Most importantly, I first drilled a 2 mm hole and the gas just started burning in the burner itself, after which I drilled a 4 mm hole and everything worked as it should. Well, that's all my friends for today, I have everything I could, I told you now I will go to make a forge as always from what I will definitely share with you.
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