Recently I assembled a horizontal Grinder, as they say, on knee about this device, I told us on the site … I used it more than once, but not often, but in vain I decided to use it more often. During use, I found insignificant disadvantages, and made conclusions, I did it for tests and decided to raise its status from temporary to permanent.
As always, I went into a pool of knowledge to scoop or see how others scooped, learned a little and went to the workshop. Instead of a bed, I used a beam and a drive roller, also made of wood with a diameter of 110 mm, cut from plywood. The engine from the washing machine of Chinese friends. In general, I sat, smoked, thought and did not come up with anything, decided not to remake everything old, but to assemble a new one, but according to the principle of the old.
The diameter of the drive roller was selected empirically, it was done by 200 mm and by 150, but at this diameter the tape was quickly erased. 100 mm is the most optimal and it will not be difficult to find the material. The network has a lot of options for making a drive pulley from various materials, even poured from plastic or cut out of wood. I think the most ideal option is an aluminum drive pulley with a rubber coating, it will be pleasant to work on such a roller because there will be no beating of the belt. Sometimes there are no tapes in stores, I buy ready-made ones, but sometimes I have to take sheet paper and glue it myself for me it's hard. A good friend showed how to do it easier. Cuts of the desired length, the tape is made at the ends of an oblique cut and at the edge where it will be from below, just 5 mm of the tape lie on the edge of the iron and after a little time it is simply scraped off with a knife without effort, and the glue is applied and placed under the clamp after the glue dries, the tape is ready for use. With this method of gluing, I have never broken the tape at the joint, and the beats are minimal.
Well, that's enough chatting, I'm getting to work. In the workshop, I found two pieces of a 50 x 50 mm corner, a couple of pieces of a profile pipe, an old tension roller from a foreign car and went to a flea market to look for an engine. I found a suitable engine, I don’t know from what, but it is 300 W and turns 1100 rpm, I think it’ll come off bought it for 700 rubles and went to tinker.
Need a tool
- Engine from 1000 rpm
- Profile 30 by 30
- Corner 50 by 50
- Profile 20 by 40 15 cm
- Tension roller
- Tape 300 mm
For the drive roller, I found a casing of a suitable diameter from some kind of engine with a diameter of 100 mm. Using a grinder, I cut off all unnecessary on the Green Dere, sanded and welded a coupling with the inner diameter of the engine shaft in the center.
For the frame, I took two sections of a 30 x 30mm profile pipe 12 cm each and the main profile 25 cm.I welded two pieces to the main profile, stepping back a little from the edge between the 8 cm segments, welded them slightly at an angle and so that the bed would melt steadily welded a piece of wire to the edges. To mount the engine, I took two pieces of a 50 by 50 mm corner, drilled 4 holes and screwed it onto the engine, then put it in its place on the bed and welded it with electric welding. On the casing, the engine cut a little at the edges and below so that nothing would interfere with the adjustment. In the corner in the left edge, I made a cut so that the engine drove up and down to adjust the thickness of the grinding, so it will be more reliable. The engine is supported by two bolts, the right bolt only attracts the engine, and the left bolt is narrower and makes the adjustment. In the network, it is usually just that the main frame is fixed in a through-hole with a bolt, and the other edge is set to the desired height and tightened. I don’t like it so much, I don’t know why I did it as checked.
For the place where the slide will go to the profile, I weld a piece of profile 30 by 30 mm 12 cm, and then from the side I weld the profile 30 by 50 lying on it will walk the slide. The length is divided equally so that it is the same on both sides. In order to make it convenient on the sides, I screw two pieces of a suitable piece of iron 20 mm high. Then I unscrewed the left one, it was not needed, left only the right one. That's all there is a little left to put the drive pulley in place so that its edge does not go over the edge of the limiter. The roller is 3 cm wide, since I don't make the knives wider, and I also save the tape, since the tape is initially 10 cm wide from one you can make three. Although initially I wanted to make a video with a width of 5 cm, but during work I saw that the tape wears out by half and I throw away the tape half erased.
To attach the tension roller, I took two plates of 8 mm thick, 7 cm long and 5 cm wide, so that you can change the angle of inclination, I weld the canopy to the edges, I don’t know where it is from, but it came up as it should. For the roller itself in the center of the plate, I welded a 10 mm bolt through a washer, tightened everything. On the reverse side, at the edge of the plate, I drilled an 8 mm hole and welded a nut. I bent a key from a wire and cut a thread with it, I can adjust the angle so that the tape does not run away. To fix this all on the reverse side, I weld a profile of 30 by 30 mm and the entire tension roller mechanism is ready, I try on everything in its place, I stretch everything as it should. I put the tape on, start it and everything works as it should, one minus is that the sparks fly where it is not necessary, but I will refine this little things later because the engine turns clockwise if I rotate counterclockwise and the sparks will not fly, but if work is sharper or the edge of the workpiece can get to the joint where the tape was glued and then the injuries will be exactly well, somehow, I worked a little, looked what else to do the little things I finished. After work, I made sure that everything suits me to disassemble everything, I grind and paint.
Well, that's all disassembled, cleaned, painted and reassembled. Such a grinder will last more than one kilometer of belts; on it, you can grind the plane and display lenticular slopes. You can attach a table and grind like on the main Green Dere. Also, a fat plus is tape saving and work with different diameters. At the cost, I only had the purchase of the engine, and so everything else was at hand. Of course, it was possible to build better, but I don't need a lot, the main thing is that it could be easy and fast to work on and that's it. At the end of the article, I left a video of all the work, do not judge strictly, but rather help with advice to an ordinary hard worker, and not teach the mind about painting and welding while sitting on the couch. Anyone can offend a creative person. Thank you friends for your precious attention. Well, for you sofa experts, you are catching another job. See you next time at Samodelkina's