DIY

Filled aquarium 2

Hello everyone! I will continue the topic aquarium hobby . In this post I will do the decoration on the bottom (a frame to hide the backing of the aquarium and a small decoration). Of course I am working on serious details such as a filter, but that will be later. I'm not a professional in this business, but why not try and collect a small body of water at home. After reading and watching the Internet, there is just chaos in my head. As I understand it, you need to know a lot about floristry and the real pollution of living water bodies. The aquarium is small, but you need to correctly calculate the ecological balance there, and it is even more difficult to get it. Of course you can use chemistry, but I don't want to! In the future, I plan to clean only the front side of the aquarium. Therefore, everything will continue, but for now it is.
Aquarium with filling 2 From the previous post, it was clear that I installed the aquarium on sheet (14 mm) polystyrene foam. This is the first size, I add the glass thickness and it turns out to be 19 mm in height for the outer decoration of the bottom of the aquarium. The dimensions of the aquarium itself are known, so initially I draw two simple strips, which I will later cut out in duplicate each.
Aquarium with filling 2 Aquarium with filling 2 I get just such an assembly in SolidWorks (many providers block this forum, but there are many ways to ignore blocking)
Aquarium with filling 2 The simple edging of the bottom of the aquarium certainly does not suit me. Need a slotted thread or just engraving. Since the height of the planks is small, I choose the latter. To do this, I start searching at the almighty web . I choose this option. It will be easier to scale it to fit my part size. But the downloaded file has a .dwg file extension, and I need .dxf. Therefore, I quickly search for converter and get what I want. Now you can work with it (file).
 Aquarium with filling 2 Then I choose the picture I need (bottom left, in the corner) and start working with it. The most interesting thing is that I have been writing here much longer than working on my idea. Damn damn it, I don't like this Aquarium with filling 2 Therefore, I will not describe the simplest actions, everything is clear from the pictures Aquarium with filling 2
Aquarium with filling 2 Aquarium with filling 2 Aquarium with filling 2 Next I edit/just delete those I don't need elements. It remains like this. I will work with this.
Aquarium with filling 2  Aquarium with filling 2 I superimpose the resulting vector on the details, scale. I set the location and delete unnecessary parts. In the future, this sketch will be engraved.
Aquarium with filling 2 Aquarium with filling 2  Aquarium with filling 2 Initially, I planned to simply engrave. But I thought that it would be the volumetric thread that would look more effective. So I do it like this. Of course, you can also add fillets to give a greater effect, but the detail is small and it is not worth the extra work. Therefore, when I write a control program for cutting on a CNC milling machine, it will be easier (standard operation for machining pockets).
Part variant for use in width:
Aquarium with filling 2  Aquarium with filling 2 Variant of a detail for use in depth:
 Aquarium with filling 2 Aquarium with filling 2 Aquarium with filling 2 This is how it looks on the assembly. It looks pretty in my opinion, and after production it will be even more beautiful.
Aquarium with filling 2 I think, and partially know, that this option will look best Aquarium with filling 2 . Moreover, after covering the product, the picture will appear significantly. The deeper (the space with the solution) will be darker. You will see all this later.
I am starting to write a control program. Nothing, but there is one problem. The working area on my CNC is 500×300 mm, and one of the parts is larger. This can be easily solved, you just need to make this part composite. Why just blow it in half with the junction. After assembly, it will be almost unnoticeable about the component part.
Aquarium with filling 2 I will cut with such cutters. I use a V-shape for engraving with a broken tip. For cutting on the contour of the end 1.5mm (corn).
Aquarium with filling 2 In order not to cut each part separately, I do assembly. Thus, all parts will be cut in one material fixing. By the way, I use 4mm birch plywood as a material.
Aquarium filled with 2 I will work in my favorite program, only now in SolidCam 2020 SP4. The first step is to set the details to “0”. From this zero, the entire calculation of coordinates for the movement of the cutter will be made. The entire assembly of the necessary parts looks like a single part for the program.
Aquarium with filling 2 I create the first treatment. In the technology tree, I select the pocket processing and indicate the necessary chains. The machine will operate in the same sequence. This is often important, for example, when, to save material, parts in an assembly are inserted into one another (I mean small parts in the free space of a larger one).
 Aquarium with filling 2 I am choosing cutters for processing. At one time, he created the base of the used tool with the laid down dimensions and cutting parameters. I also set other parameters (levels, technology).
Aquarium with filling 2 The second processing will be already cutting out the parts themselves. I choose contouring, well, just like with the first processing, the tool, levels, allowances, technology. At the end of all processes, I generate the control program itself.
Aquarium with filling 2 And of course I check visually that all the necessary trajectories are present .
Aquarium with filling 2 Then I transfer the finished program to the machine. I fix the workpiece on the desktop, set the machine “0”, and start processing.
Aquarium with filling 2 Aquarium with filling 2 Here is the first processing process. Sets the masonry pattern. The cutting depth was set too big, and figs with him, the result will show everything. If I have anything to redo a couple of hours, I don't work myself Aquarium with filling 2
 Aquarium with filling 2 The first part of the program has been completed. By G-code command ( M06 ) the cutting tool will be changed. Also, the code contains a temporary stop code ( M01 ) of program execution. During this period, I replace the cutter. Since there is no tool store in the machine (and it is not necessary at home), I use homemade products again. With its help, I programmatically set “0” in Z (height). The convenience of additional attachment on MACH3 is that it is possible after the command M01 use the keys to control all axes of the machine. I have 4 of them, on this product I use three. In this case, it just has a touch of the cutter on the sensor, knowing the exact thickness of the sensor, the same zero is set and the cutter rises for further work (everything is pre-registered in the additional module for MACH3). In short, everything happens automatically, you just have to press a button on the control panel. The photo below shows part of the process of manually changing the cutter without knocking down the machine coordinates. Then you should remove the sensor and just press the button to continue the program (START). By the way, I also made the MACH3 shell myself, for my own needs and for my needs. If anyone is interested, I can share my experience.
Aquarium with filling 2 And here is the second process (trimming along the contour). There are also pitfalls here. Any milling cutter is attracted in the opposite direction (to revolutions), and vice versa is repelled in the course of work. Especially noticeable on small diameter cutters (I have 1.5mm). Therefore, the data is all added up, corrections are made (like a crosswind arrow) and then a program is generated. Otherwise it is very easy to fly with dimensions. It is also important to know that when cutting out a part (in this case from plywood), you need to take into account the degree of deformation (the internal stress mechanism works). The cut part can bend and prevent further idle movement of the cutter. At this stage, you often come across, especially beginners (I'm no exception). Accordingly, when you shape the processing. immediately set the correct lifting height of the cutter. The photographs below show the effect of internal stress.
Aquarium with filling 2 Aquarium with filling 2 6 details were quickly cut out. I'll leave it that way until the weekend. Work interferes with creativity, it's bad Aquarium with filling 2
 Aquarium with filling 2 I take them out, I grind them with sandpaper. Plywood was purchased earlier, the cheapest, not furniture, so you have to finish it yourself.
Aquarium stuffed 2 bars with replaceable emery cloth on a fabric basis. Of course, there are also orbital and band power tools, but in this case it is more efficient.
Aquarium with filling 2 Then I assemble and glue the prefabricated parts. I use PVA glue, several clamps (also homemade) and laminate trims for relative alignment and attraction when gluing.
Aquarium with filling 2 In fact, the time spent on this decoration: 10 minutes to find the desired relief, about 30 minutes to process the image (translated for SOLID into the body and surfaces and preparation for work). I did not cut it for long, with a milling cutter with a 0.3mm tip it took quite a long time, about 4 hours. The final cut was done while I was smoking. Here is the robot's efficiency).
First try-on Aquarium with filling 2
Aquarium with filling 2 The photo below shows the coating process of the parts. It will dry (after about an hour), I will grind the tops again a little. It turns out a little lightening of the “stones”.
Aquarium with filling 2 Well, here's the final result:
Aquarium with filling 2 Brought from work 3mm plexiglass trimming. The next step is to make a filter. I already really want to drive to a pet store and buy a couple of live plants and fish. But you can't do without a filter. Patience is important in everything Aquarium with filling 2
 Aquarium with filling 2

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