DIY

Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer

Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer < img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer" src = "https://content.instructables.com/ORIG/FDT/FO86/KNELXI7E/FDTFO86KNELXI7E.gif"/> A 3D printer is a machine for printing three-dimensional (3D) objects. The main material for the machine is a thread made of various plastics.
At the moment, one of the most popular models is the Prusa 3D printer. These printers are sold assembled, or as a kit for self-assembly. The master decided to purchase all the parts separately and assemble a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer. For the price, such a machine cost the master 3 times cheaper than buying a ready-made set.
Tools and materials:
-A detailed list of all necessary parts can be found here;
Files for printing parts on a 3D printer can be downloaded here.
The latest version of the 3D printer software (Marlin 2.0) is available here.
Drivers and applications can be download (Prusa3d) here.
The craftsman used a CNC milling machine to make the Standard Prusa I3 frame. Frame material – 18 mm thick synthetic wood.
Standard Nema 17 engines with a holding torque of 4.2 kg-cm are used as motors.
Used as base electronics Arduino + Ramps 1.4 + A4988 kit.
Most of the used 3D printed parts are in line with the latest original Prusa i3 MK2S design.
Assembling a 3D replica Printer Prusa i3 Mk2S Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S Step one: assembling the Y axis
The first step the wizard starts assembling the Y axis .
Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S The following parts are required for its assembly:
Studs M10 (380 mm) < br> Studs M8
Washers and nuts M10
Washers and nuts M8
Smooth rods (350 mm)
* Y-shaped corners
Y-shaped belt holder
Y-shaped motor
Y-distance
Y-idle-holder
(parts marked with a letter, printed on a 3D printer)
Linear bearings LM8UU
First you need to install washers and screw nuts on the M10 studs. The distance between the angle of the Y axis and the washer must be 100 mm.
Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Prepare the rods M8.
Take two 8mm studs and insert them into the y-motor part. The part should be approximately in the middle. Then secure the part with M8 nuts. Repeat the same for the y-idle part. Then screw two more M8 nuts on both ends for all 8mm threaded rods.
 Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Assembling a 3D replica -printer Prusa i3 Mk2S  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Then connect the front (tension roller with rods) and rear (Y-axis motor with rods) parts as shown in the photo. Ensure correct placement and orientation of these parts. Note that the Y-piece of the motor should be closer to the double nut side. Secure the corner blocks with washers and M8 nuts. A wooden frame can be used to align the parts. Try to make the frame as rectangular as possible.
Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S Attach the Y-belt holder to the Y-axis carriage using the M3 screws. Align the linear bearings (LM8UU) on the carriage and secure them with cable ties. Make sure the bearings are installed on the correct side as shown in the photo.
Secure the motor and end stop with M3x10 screws. Then insert smooth rods with a diameter of 8 mm into the carriage and install it on the frame. Do this by applying pressure to all four corners. Move the carriage and make sure it moves freely. Then secure the rods with a tie.
Now turn the whole assembly over. Insert the strap into the strap holder. Loosen the motor mount and turn it as shown in the photo. Attach the pulley to the engine, install the belt, adjust the tension.
Make sure once again that the machine frame is rectangular.
 Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S Step two: assembly of the X-axis
This step uses the following parts: < br> x-end-motor
x-end-tensioner
x-carriage
LM8UU
M3x10, M3x18, screws
M3 square nut
Smooth rods (370 mm)
Install linear bearings (LM8UU) in x-end motor parts and x-end tensioner. It is necessary to insert the bearing so that the inner balls of one are rotated 45 degrees in relation to the other. This ensures maximum contact with a smooth barbell.
Prepare the x-end tensioner part. Note that it has two grooves, one above and one below the part. Insert the square M3 nuts into these slots and tighten the M3x10 screws. These screws will push the smooth rods, thereby maintaining tension on the belt. After adding the belt, you need to tighten these screws to make fine adjustments to the belt tension.
Take two smooth rods with a diameter of 370 mm, insert two linear bearings in one rod and one linear bearing in the other rod. Then insert these rods into the printed parts and use zip ties to attach the X carriage with these three linear bearings (see photo).
Then attach the end stop to the x-end motor part with two M3x10 screws. This end stop will abut against the body of the extruder body, which will be attached later. Attach the pulley to the motor and secure to the x-end-motor with M3x18 screws.
Install the belt. Make a small loop and insert the belt into the carriage x. Thread the belt through the pulley and motor and pull it back to the other end of the carriage. Before inserting the other end into the carriage, loosen the screws on the motor and turn it slightly.
Then fasten the belt to the carriage and turn the engine into place. Check the belt tension, it should not be too tight or too loose. Then cut off the excess belt and reinstall the engine.
Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S Step three: assembling the Z axis
Parts used in this step: < br> z-axis bottom
z-axis top
z-nut holder
M3x30 screws
M3 nuts
M5 threaded rods
Smooth rods (320 mm)
Attach the bottom of the Z-axis to the frame, note that this part has left and right sides. Use M3x30 screws together with nuts to secure these parts to the frame. Then attach the stepper motor to the motor support with M3x10 screws.
Attach flexible couplings and M5 threaded rods to motors. Inside the coupling, half the distance should be occupied by the motor shaft and the other half by a threaded rod. This will provide better stability and less axial wobble, which in turn will give a better seal.
Finally, insert two smooth rods (320mm) into the circular grooves of the motor mount.
Now you need to prepare the Z-nut holders. Place two M5 nuts between the Z-axis nut holder. Then screw them to the idler pulley at the x end and to the motor. The orientation of the nut holder does not matter.
Next, you need to align the Z-axis and X-axis and carefully move the X-axis on the rods. Make sure the threaded rods line up with the M5 nuts. Then rotate the threaded rods so that the X axis goes inward. Now attach the top of the Z axis to the frame. As with the bottom of the z-axis, there are two versions – left and right.
Next, grab the Y-axis assembly in one hand, and with the other hand, while holding the frame, slowly slide the Y-axis down into the frame. Then tighten the nuts.
Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S Step four: assembling the extruder
There are two main types of extruder designs:
Direct Drive Extruder
Bowden Extruder
In a direct drive extruder, the motor is mounted on a carriage, while for a Bowden extruder it is mounted separately and the filament is fed using a Bowden tube. Both options have their pros and cons. Although the direct drive makes the carriage slightly heavier, it provides better print quality and reliability. The wizard uses a direct drive design.
There are two main 3D printed parts in the extruder: the extruder body and the extruder cap. It is necessary to prepare these parts by installing the M3 nuts in the corresponding grooves.
Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S Next, you need to install the hot end. The hotend is the head in which the thread is melted. The master uses the E3D v6 hot-end.
Cut a small piece of Teflon tubing and insert it into the hot end. Then carefully install the hot end with the tube into the extruder body. At this point, you can secure the extruder cover with M3x18 and M3x30.
Next, place the plastic shaft in bearing 625 and place the bearing on the opposite side of the extruder. Fix the motor to the extruder with an M3x30 screw. Tighten the motor screws carefully and do not overtighten as the plastic may crack. In the same way, secure the extuder idler roller using the M3x30 screw. Attach the MK8 actuator to the motor and align.
Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Install the extruder tensioner using two M3x40 screws along with washer and spring. Make sure you do not overtighten these springs as this can make it difficult to install the thread.
Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Attach the fan and temperature sensor.
Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Align the extruder with the X carriage and also feed the cables through the carriage. Install the extruder correctly and secure it with three screws as shown in the photo.
Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S Step five: electronics
In this project the master uses Arduino Mega 2560 and RAMPS 1.4. Newer boards with better features are available, but this is the cheapest option.
A variety of stepper motor driver options are also available.
A4988 – although the cheapest, does the job.
DRV8255 – slightly better than A4988 as it delivers more current.
TMC2100 is the most expensive. but the motors run with less noise.
Attach the Arduino Mega to the frame with cable ties and install the RAMPS on it. Install the stepper motor drivers on the RAMPS board.
Improper installation of the stepper driver can damage it and other electronics. Please check the manual of your stepper driver.
Then install the power supply on the frame, for this the wizard simply drilled two holes in the frame and attached the power supply with self-tapping screws.
 Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S Now you need to install the heated bed to the Y-carriage. Use M3x25 screws and M3 nuts to secure the bed. M4 nuts can be used as spacers.
 Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Some heated beds come with pre-installed wires, but if there are no wires, then the cross section must be 14 AWG and above.
Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S Heated beds can draw between 10 and 15 A. Unfortunately, the mosfet that comes with the RAMPS 1.4 board is not powerful enough to handle that current. Hence, if you plan on using the heated bed frequently, the technician recommends using an external board. You can make your own board using the IRF3708 Mosfet.
Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer After everything is installed, you can start wiring. The diagram is attached.
Putting together replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Step six: programming
At this stage, you need to program the 3D printer.
In this project, the wizard uses the Marlin firmware.
Putting together a 3D replica Printer Prusa i3 Mk2S Marlin is an open source firmware primarily designed for 3D printers using the Arduino platform. This is a very popular and very common firmware. It supports 8-bit and even 32-bit controller boards. using it, the printer will perform various actions, such as moving the motor, adjusting the temperature, etc.
 Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Since Marlin runs on the Arduino platform, you need to install the Arduino IDE.
Then open the “Marlin.ino” file with the Arduino IDE and select the “Configuration.h” file. Next, you need to change the settings in the file to match the printer. Check out Offical Marlin for more details.
Here are some settings you can change.
STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR – displayed in the Marlin start post to identify the author
BAUDRATE – printer serial communication speed.
MOTHERBOARD – set to “BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB”, change if you are using a different board
TEMP_SENSOR_0 – sets the type of temperature sensor for the main hot end.
TEMP_SENSOR_BED – sets the type of temperature sensor for the heated bed .
Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Step Seven: Calibrating Your 3D Printer
Installation
Open Proterface. Proterface is the host 3D printing software and comes with PrusaSlicer. Then select the desired “COM” port and baud rate. Click on the connect button.
Calibrate the end stop
Send the command “M119”
Then press the end stops X and Y one after the other and see if they work properly
Calibrating Axis Direction
Move all axes using the arrow buttons and note if they move in the correct direction. If not, set INVERT_X_DIR, INVERT_Y_DIR and INVERT_Z_DIR respectively.
Start the printer by sending a 'G28 X Y' command
Adjusting the height of the inductive sensor
Lower the Z axis until the nozzle does not lightly touch the bed. The distance between the nozzle and the bed should be such that a sheet of paper slides between them.
Then adjust the inductive sensor so that it is triggered in this position.
Calibrate the “Steps/mm” for the axes
Move the axis a certain distance
Measure how much it actually moved axis
then calculate new value steps/mm
New steps/mm = (Desired distance/Measured distance) * Old steps/mm
Update value in settings DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT
Do this for all axes and for extruder.
Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Step eight: printing
There are many software tools available for slicing such as PrusaSlicer, Cura, Simplify3D. The wizard uses PrusaSlicer.
Open PrusaSlicer.
If this is your first job, a configuration window should appear.
Set filament settings in Filament Settings.
Check printer settings.
Import 3D model for printing (usually they are in stl files)
Click “Slice Now” and “Export Gcode”.
Open Pronterface and load the Gcode file.
Click “Print”.
Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Step Nine: Updates
The master made this 3D printer several years ago and even in two copies (in the photographs, details of different colors). Over the years, it has made 3 major updates.
1) 3D Printer Housing
The housing protects the 3D printer from dust and traps harmful vapors. You can read the instructions for making it here.
2) Wi-Fi 3D printing using ESP3D
When working in another room, being able to control the printer using Wi-Fi helps a lot. You can also download the Octoprint app and use your phone as a remote control to control your printer. To do this, the master used an ESP8266 board and connected it to Serial 1 of the Arduino Mega.
3) Nema 17 motor control with feedback
He also added a motor with feedback. It's not really necessary, but it allows you to print faster.
Assembling a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 3D printer Mk2S  Putting together a replica of the Prusa i3 Mk2S 3D printer Everything is ready, and the whole process of making such a printer can be seen in the video below.

Source:

usamodelkina.ru

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