Greetings to all lovers of homemade products and those who just looked at the site in search of something interesting. If you like to travel out of town in a big company and you have a personal car, then this idea is definitely for you. Below I will present a variant of a car trailer, which will fit almost everything you need for outdoor recreation. The goal of the author was to make a small, lightweight trailer that could be safely pulled behind a car or minivan on a freeway. Since it did not have a definite plan, except for the general dimensions and functionality of the trailer, the author worked on a lot during the construction process.
General characteristics: the length of the trailer on the frame is 275 cm. The cargo box is 127 cm wide, 153 cm long and 61 cm high. The finished trailer weighs approximately 264 kg. The roof opens with gas struts to help raise and hold it open. The two hinges at the front can be easily detached, so the trailer can be used as a small open top cargo trailer.
Now a little of the author's background, how it all began. He bought an old tent trailer a few years ago. And I wanted to repair it. The trailer had a rotten roof and a host of other issues that it had to fix. But in the end, the trailer stood for a year and was never used, after which it was sold. Then there were a few more purchases and sales of trailers, but from them I kept some materials for myself. This was the reason to try to make your own design.
Manufacturing began with the frame. For her, he used metal pipes with a cross section of 75×50 mm. The photo below shows the whole process in sequence. The frame was welded first. I cut out the details for it along the square plywood base of the future box. Pay attention to the joints of the corners, at the ends of the two parallel pipes I cut the walls so that the tongues remain in the size of the ends of the other two parallel pipes. I also welded metal kerchiefs in the corners for additional rigidity. Corner brackets with holes for further fastening of the bottom of the box were also welded.
The mechanism for attaching the trailer to a purchased towbar, the author fixed its clutch with a clamp on the protruding nozzle of the trailer and drilled holes in the last for fastening bolts.
All the necessary suspension parts were also purchased – axle, hubs, springs, bearings, brackets, etc. After that, they were safely installed on the frame.
Since the lower drawer has a rear flap, the rear sides of the lower drawer have no lateral support. Therefore, the author welded on the external supports, which also serve as a place for installing the rear lights.
The author also welded on the mounting plates, they are necessary for attaching the support arms, which make the trailer stable when loading/unloading. In total, the author needed three such levers, giving one of them he fixed at the back, and one in front of the frame.
Then the frame was primed and painted.
Now we turn to the manufacture of the lower trailer box. The bottom drawer was made of Baltic birch plywood and finished inside and outside with several layers of urethane spar (protective varnish). The bottom is 18 mm thick (15 layers) and the sides are 15 mm (13 layers). For the skin, the author used metal from an old trailer. He covered the outer sides of the box with it, the metal was secured with pneumatic stainless steel clamps. The aluminum trims were taken from the original trailer and modified as necessary to fit the new one. The rear lights were also installed and wired from them.
At this stage, the frame was welded for the lid of the box, as well as brackets for its hinged attachment to the lower box were welded. At the corners of the frame, the author welded the racks from the corner for further fastening the sides of the cover.
Same as the bottom frame , the lid frame was primed and painted.
Directly making the lid box. It's built from the same plywood and siding from the old trailer. Trims have been added to seal the edges with a new vinyl insert material.
From the inside, the top of the lid was insulated by the author with pieces of foam, and the seams between them filled with foam, then covered with a sheet.
A few final touches. The spare wheel required a custom fit so that it was positioned in front of the box with enough clearance to open the trailer roof comfortably. The spare wheel and carrier also serve as ballast because this particular placement gives the trailer the correct weight. The author welded the fastening from scraps of steel plates and shaped pipes.
The fenders were painted and attached to the box with new brackets. Additionally, latches were installed (two pieces), but first it was necessary to slightly change their shape (bent in place, for a correct fit), after they were painted and then screwed onto the trailer.
Perhaps the following information will be useful to someone. Essentially, the author tried to build the trailer in such a way that it could be modified or adapted for use as a sleeping camper. Therefore, the design of the tailgate and hinges has been specially developed so that the side in the open position is flush with the bottom of the box in order to increase its useful area. In the future, he plans to make some kind of device for additional support for the trailer, which will also serve as steps for climbing inside.
The author also plans to sew a tent structure that could be installed in an open trailer (attached to the roof, sides and rear tailgate) with a tailgate, windows, etc. But here everything needs to be thought out to make it waterproof and easy to set up. But this is a completely different story.
I have everything. I hope you enjoyed the idea and description. Thank you all for your attention and see you next time visiting Samodelkin !!! Good luck to all!!