Nikon DX AF lens came for repair -S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical.
With a common defect for impatient and harsh photojournalists. Who do not bother themselves with the gentle handling of high-end technology. Hard handling of the zoom drive very quickly looses the pin mounts, they break out of the sockets and jam the barrels in any position. I was a little lucky and the zoom cleared at the very beginning.
What can I do, I will treat the poor fellow.
Let me introduce you to Nikon's optics in the face of this excellent lens, so to speak.
This lens is universal for Nikon DX cameras. With the highest zoom ratio in this line of Nikon Nikkor lenses.
It was released in 2005, together with the new Nikon D200 camera, sometimes it was sold in a kit version for it.
Nikon 18-200/3.5-5.6 G has a very large focal length option, which is its versatility.
Allows the photographer to tackle an extended range of everyday tasks without changing multiple lenses.
Supports a wide range of 18mm aperture from f/3.5 to f/22., as well as 200mm from f/5.6 to f/36. ( BUT … small subtlety, does not have a ring for setting the aperture, the value is set through the carcass menu).
The minimum focal length is half a meter. (0.5 is shorter).
Optics are represented by excellent lens units 16 elements in 12 groups, 3 aspherical elements.
Produced by two mills, “Made in Thailand” and “Made in Japan”, from November 2005 to July 2009.
The weight of this “trunk” is 565 g, with a carcass almost a kilogram! repair.
I begin to disassemble from the bayonet.
By the way, all serious lenses have metal ones.
An unexpected obstacle made me take a step back. There are dirt and traces of corrosion on the mount screws. There is a real opportunity to rip off the splines of the bolts, this is still half the trouble. You can break a long bolt in the area where the thread passes into the bolt leg.
Therefore, I drip on the bolts of the famous WD-40.
WD-40 grease has the technical name Water Displacement. That is, the displacement of water.
The superfluid liquid easily penetrates the smallest gaps. It acts on rust in a chemical way, due to which the corrosion grains lose their bonds. This effect makes it easy to unscrew the stuck bolt.
And so I put a little of this miracle on four bolts, I put the lens vertically, because this “super-liquid” can leak into an unnecessary place.
Besides this patient, I have no patients today, you can relax.
Tea – time with a bun.
We ate a little with grease, I had a bun, it was rust and dirt. There is no dispute about tastes.
I unscrew the best screwdriver …. there is no mount for the bayonet. Anti-glare cylinder.
Three bolts and removed.
no, not a bayonet mount, a contact block mount that is easy on the side.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Repair of lens Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-05 /1619872892_p1010017.jpg "/> We got to the four bolts of this piece of iron. I twist it carefully, everything went well, without any problems. Maybe I was reinsured using lubricant, but it is better to “overdo it”.
Four bolts, three long, one short, as our comrade Morse said. I carefully move the contact block to the middle and remove the bayonet.
Such a long stick on the bottom, mechanical drive aperture control. Since the drive itself is installed in the body of the camera and with a stick covers the aperture to the desired value.
Inside are several thin metal plates for focus correction. I extract carefully, it is very easy to bend them.
Take off the first ring just behind the bayonet, and be careful again! Under it is a loop from the buttons on the ring to the main board.
A contact latch opens under the rings, I open and remove the control contacts.
And several loops to the board. Everything needs to be disconnected. I unscrew the board fastening bolts, now it can be removed.
I lift the control board, there is another loop connector under it. And wiring to the contacts on the side. They do not need to be soldered, they are attached with one bolt.
A ring with teeth and ….
I see the famous UltraSonic Motor; with a reducer.
Who cares about the reference.
Works quickly, clearly, quietly.
There are several options for the lens motor.
Manufacturers of photographic equipment have different names and abbreviations different for this masterpiece, but the principle of operation is the same.
Canon – USM, UltraSonic Motor;
Minolta, Sony – SSM, SuperSonic Motor;
Nikon – SWM, Silent Wave Motor;
Olympus – SWD, Supersonic Wave Drive;
Panasonic – XSM, Extra Silent Motor;
Pentax – SDM, Supersonic Drive Motor;
Sigma – HSM, Hyper Sonic Motor;
Tamron – USD, Ultrasonic Silent Drive, PZD, Piezo Drive.
Samsung —SSA, Super Sonic Actuator;
I remove the motor and disconnect the control loop.
Some more details.
I take off the second cylinder or as it is written in the service manual” barrel “- barrel, barrel.
Then a block of a very small and thin comb of contacts, which informs about the position of the zoom. I handle it with the utmost care when removing it. It is very easy to bend. You can drop it inside the lens structure, then it’s generally a mess.
So what I have left. The remainder of the block is jammed in the zero position of the zoom.
Looking around from all sides, I notice the dropped pin.
He jammed the entire structure.
Few things got stuck, so the photographer tried to turn everything around. Got to death. After half an hour of trying to move or remove the piece, I try to remove another barrel.
I unscrew the fasteners, try to carefully separate the structure.
Another hour of careful manipulations, everything disconnected and the pin fell out!
You can disassemble the rest and inspect the damage.
Yeah … the bad marks on the cylinder block are serious.
The circles have turned into an oval. This is what delicate ladies' fingers can do with very durable aluminum!
Here is a twisted pin.
We'll have to disassemble” all the way to the bottom “and try to straighten the ovals of the cylinders into a normal geometric figure.
Block” apertures “- diaphragms in Russian, control board, very well glued loops. I warm up the trains with a hair dryer, the glue softens, I carefully paste it.
Damn, it's been five hours of fiddling.
I straighten the ovals of aluminum cylinders with handles sometimes I use a rubber hammer, constantly measuring roundness with a digital caliper.
Another couple of hours of fiddling and barrels stop touching the arcs for each other when moving. I fix the thread of the pins with the appropriate tap. I clean the seizures, wipe all the cylinders with a cloth with alcohol from sawdust. Then I paint over the places of the corrected seizures with a special matte paint.
Putting it up in the reverse order. Pins soot on the thread lock.
Poor fellow is ready. I run it through the tests. COMPLETE however.
Well done – take the candy.
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