Greetings to all lovers of homemade products and those who just looked at the site in search of interesting ideas. Everyone who has it knows that an electric drill is a very useful tool in the household, and those who do not have one are not averse to getting one. This tool can be upgraded into a small drilling machine. Thanks to this modernization, the tool acquires even more possibilities. All you need to do is make a rack. It can be made in different versions and from different materials, it all depends on the capabilities and wishes of craftsmen and DIY enthusiasts. For example, the author of this homemade product decided to use wood to implement the idea – the material is affordable and easy to process. It is about this type of rack that will be discussed in the article below. At the end of the article, a video from the author will be posted, after watching it, the manufacturing process will become even clearer. I will make a reservation right away that there will be no sizes in the article (but some of them can be seen in the video on the tape measure, which he uses when cutting parts), after all, the main thing is the idea itself, and the tools are of all different sizes, so everything is selected individually. Below I will list the main materials and the tool that he used, I apologize in advance if I missed something.
* plywood sheet,
* furniture metal rails for drawers,
* wood glue,
* self-tapping screws,
* small door hinge,
* two latches.
* hand-held circular saw,
* marking tool (square, pencil),
* double-sided tape.
At the beginning, the author, using a hand-held circular saw and a special device for it (apparently made with his own hand), dismantled a sheet of plywood into blanks of the required dimensions. Then he took two of the narrowest slats and glued them along the plane. I screwed furniture guides to the resulting part with self-tapping screws. To stick them straight, I used double-sided tape. First I glued the strip onto one flat wooden surface and glued the guide, then I did the same on the other side. I made marks along the holes in the guides. I drilled holes through them and screwed in screws. One piece of the rack is ready.
At this stage, the author has made something similar to the box for the first part. He took slats that are wider. On one of them I glued a strip of adhesive tape strictly in the middle along a strip and installed a previously prepared part on it with a wooden surface. Then he securely screwed the screws into the bar. So he marked and made the holes. After the screws, I unscrewed, disconnected the bar from the part and removed the tape. He smeared the wooden surface with glue, put the bar back, aligning the holes, and screwed in the screws. The connection was strengthened by adding a few more screws.
Next, the author glued strips of tape to both guides. Then he glued the two remaining strips to them. Their width is about a couple of millimeters wider than the width of the guides. He took off the rails along with parts of the guides and screwed in the screws from the inside. Then I installed the planks in place. Since the planks were too tight, the author removed them again and processed the edges on a sheet of fine sandpaper. I processed the edges of the guides with a needle file. I installed these parts on a flat surface on the end and checked the evenness of the ends with a square. There was a slight bias in one of the details. I solved the problem simply, glued a piece of sheet.
The base of the rack is ready. Now it needs to be fixed on the base – a rectangular plywood blank of the required size. The author glued one of the removed strips to the base strictly perpendicularly. I checked the evenness of the corners on all sides with a square. I installed the second bar on the rack, also greased its end with glue and then strung it onto the already installed bar. I also checked all corners with a square. As you can see in the photo, everything is perfectly smooth. I closed the open part of the rack (the side where the rails are visible) with another bar. He greased the edges of the parts on the stand with glue, laid the bar on top and fixed it with self-tapping screws.
Step 4 .
At this stage, he made a shelf for installing a drill, or rather, its lower part. A rectangle was cut out of plywood. On one of its planes, I made the markings, and glued strips of adhesive tape to the other. Turning the part down with adhesive tape, the author laid it on the table, now the part is motionless. Next, I drilled a hole along the marking. I installed a jigsaw with a guide in it and cut into the parts a hole with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the chuck of the installed drill. Then he cut off the excess with a circular saw. The result is a square workpiece, the side of which is equal to the width of the rack.
The author fixed this detail to glue and self-tapping screws (through triangular blocks, they are visible in the photo and video) on the rack at the required level, as a guide he used a bar of the required width. Its long edges must be even so that the part is located strictly parallel to the base. I turned the almost finished rack upside down and securely attached it to the rack with self-tapping screws. He removed the strips and strengthened the fastening of the part under the drill with self-tapping screws.
Step 5 .
To the outside of the rack, strictly in the middle, I glued a plastic strip. What it is for, I will explain later. The author decided to equip the structure with an emphasis with a ruler. He made it in the form of a box of four narrow plywood strips. In one of them I fixed a furniture nut. Then he glued the strips, as shown in the photo. I pasted a kerchief with a ruler inside the box (a piece of tape exactly 10 cm long). The emphasis was strung on the stand, from which I had previously removed its inner part with a stand for the drill. In the desired position, the stop is fixed with a wing screw (under the furniture nut), and so that its end does not spoil the wooden surface, and a plastic strip is glued. After installing the stop, I replaced the inside of the stand.
Step 6 .
Gradually, we came to the final stage of the process – the manufacture of the upper drill retainer. For it, the author cut out parts of the required shape and size from plywood – one cover and two side stops. I attached the cover to the rack at the desired level using a furniture hinge. The distance between it and the bottom part should be equal to the length of the drill body. Under the lid, I attached the side supports close to the glue and self-tapping screws. To fix the lid in the closed position, I screwed parts of the latches to it and to the stops.
Then the author installed a drill between the cover and the lower stop, fixed it and placed the inside of the stand in its place. I installed a drill in the chuck and checked for a skew – you can see from the photo that it is not there. In principle, everything is ready.
But there is a small point. If you paid attention, there is a small space between the lid and the handle of the tool due to the shape of the handle, this is not a big deal, but he still decided to eliminate this shortcoming (apparently, to remove vibration). For this, he used, if I'm not mistaken, cold welding. The author cut off a small piece, kneaded it properly, pressed it to the lid (having previously screwed a couple of self-tapping screws in this place) and closed it, an insert of the desired shape turned out.
Now everything is ready and you can start testing, which the author did. Below are a few photos of the tests, but this moment is better seen on the video.