Greetings to all lovers of homemade products and those who just looked at the site in search of interesting ideas. Today I will tell you how one craftsman from the Middle Kingdom made a simple, but rather useful device in the workshop – an angle clamp. The reason was that the author identified flaws in the store counterpart. I in no way want to say that all store options are bad and have drawbacks, but in the one that he demonstrates, they are still there. About them at the beginning of the article. In addition, if there is an opportunity to make some useful device with your own hands, why not, you can still save a lot. Below, after a list of tools and materials, I will describe the shortcomings and demonstrate them in the photo, as well as they can be seen better in the author's video, which I will attach at the end of the article.
* a long bolt with a washer and two nuts for it,
* a plastic wing plate for the bolt (I think you can find it in hardware stores) ,
* glue for wood,
* two-component epoxy adhesive,
* self-tapping screws.
* carpentry clamps,
* hand-held circular saw,
* screwdriver or drill with a set of drills and bits ,
* drilling machine with a forstner drill (optional),
* band saw (you can use a jigsaw),
* thickness gauge and a pencil for marking,
Before proceeding with the manufacture, the author demonstrates to us the store version of the clamp and its main drawback. The thing is that the pins, with the help of which the clamps of the device move, protrude slightly above the plane on which the parts to be glued are installed.
Because of this, the parts are skewed relative to each other. As a result, the connection at the ends is not even, as is the angle between the parts.
Of course, you can torment yourself and expose the parts relative to each other, but this time, moreover, is good if the parts are small, and if these are two slats of decent length, and the width is not small (for example, this is a board 1-1 long, 5 m). It is not so easy to set them up, but if you still need to maintain a perfectly even angle. This is the flaw this device has.
First of all, the author makes the base. A hand-held circular saw installed on the site (apparently, it was made by hand) cuts a square workpiece from multilayer plywood, the size, judging by the thickness gauge, is 120×120 mm (although I may be wrong). Further on it, with the help of a planer, determines the center. Then, on a drilling machine, he drills a through hole with a forstner drill with a diameter of 20 mm (again from the markup).
After drilling, the author applies a new marking based on the holes. The process of marking in the photo below.
Then, along the lines on the band saw, he cuts a groove and cuts off the excess. As a result, this is the basis.
At this stage, the author fixed on the base the stops, which he cut in from the same plywood as the base. He greases one edge of the bar with glue and applies it to the base from the side from the groove to the corner. Then he turns the part over, drills two holes and fixes the block with self-tapping screws.
Using the block-stop fixed on the base as a base, with the help of a square, he fixes the second stop in the same way. The main part of the clamp is ready.
Now you need to make a screw that will move the clamping part of the clamp. From the same plywood, the author cut out a rectangle and drilled a hole in it on the machine as follows. First, with a large drill – a blind hole, then with an ordinary, strictly in the center, a smaller hole. The larger hole corresponds to the diameter of the nut, the smaller the diameter of the bolt.
Next, the author prepared a mixture epoxy glue and smeared it with the larger hole in the bar and the edge of the nut, the latter placed in the hole.
While the glue hardens, the author has prepared a screw. He installed a bolt in the wing lining (to be honest, I don’t know the exact name). Then he screwed the previously prepared rectangle onto it, strung a washer, greased the tip of the bolt with epoxy glue and screwed on it a second nut flush with the end.
Now you need to make the clamp itself. Again, from the same plywood, the author cut out a square blank 100×100 mm in size (judging by the ruler of the planer, although I could be wrong). I put the markings on it as shown in the photo below. It is somewhat reminiscent of the marking of the base. On a tape machine, I cut off the excess along the lines. Here's a detail.
Using a clamp, I fixed it upside down on a drilling machine and drilled a blind hole for a small washer and a nut fixed on the tip of the screw, and also made a small indentation for the washer (the indentation is equal to the thickness of the washer).
At this stage, the author connected the screw with the clamp. Everything is simple here. He smeared the recess with epoxy glue, then installed a washer and a screw in the hole. Leave the part in this position until the glue is completely dry.
The author fixed the finished clamp with the screw on the base. To do this, he smeared one edge of the rectangle on the screw with glue, then pressed it to the base, tightening the screw to make everything perfectly straight. Then he turned the product over and fixed the rectangle with self-tapping screws in the same way as the stops. The clamp is ready.
At this stage, the author conducted tests. At first, he simply installed the glue pieces and checked the angle. The photo shows that it is perfectly flat. Then he smeared the end of one of the blanks with glue and put it back in the clamp. While the glue was drying, I did the same on a store clamp. Then I checked the result. As it was required to prove, the angle of the parts glued in the store clamp is not ideal, but in the author's everything is perfectly even.
That's all, thank you all for your attention, below, as promised, I attach a video.