Greetings to all lovers of homemade products and those who just looked at the site in search of interesting and useful ideas in the household. Surely many joinery craftsmen, and even beginners, often have to join parts at right angles, especially when making furniture using dowels. Agree, it is not an easy task to correctly mark and drill the holes so that the connection is neat and even. In this situation, a template can help out, of which, I am sure, there are many in specialized stores. But why waste money, this is not the method of an inveterate DIYer. You can make such a thing with your own hands, and it is not at all difficult. You will learn how to do this in the article below. By the way, I once already told you how to make a jig for drilling holes at an angle, look in the profile, maybe this idea will come in handy for you. I will not list the materials that the author used, from the article, and so everything will be clear. Below is a list of tools.
* carpentry clamps,
* small circular saw,
* marking tool (pencil, ruler, vernier caliper),
* grinding machine.
Before proceeding with the description of the process, I will present you with a photo of the finished template, so to speak, in action. Here the author demonstrates how with it, and without much effort, a neat angle joint is obtained. At the end of the article there will be a few more test photos and videos of the manufacturing process from the author, so if you do not have time to read, skip and watch.
Having rummaged through my waste, the author picked up a plaque of a suitable size, if I am not mistaken, this is a nut. The middle part of the template will be made from it. From the workpiece, I cut off two identical square workpieces. He smeared their flat surfaces with wood glue, connected them and fixed them with clamps.
After the glue was dry, the author trimmed one edge of the workpiece on a circular saw. Then I reinstalled the stop and cut it off so that I got a rectangle of the desired width. I cut off pieces from it on the short sides, they do not need to be thrown away, for which they will see further. Then he takes two sleeves (tubes) on the package, the size is 8×30, apparently – 30 mm is the length, and 8 is the diameter. Hence, we can assume that the width of the template is 30 mm.
Further on the photo you can see that the author is laying the tubes through the prepared parts on a rectangle made of another wood, most likely this plywood. I cut off two such rectangles. There is no cutting process in the photo, but everything is clear here. The second rectangle was laid on top. After that, he disassembled everything, put a mark (line) on the lower light rectangle. On it I glued the central piece of the middle “layer”. To keep everything smooth and neat, the author used a square.
On both sides of the glued cube, the author laid the tubes and then glued the remaining parts of the middle “layer”. I installed the second rectangle on top (I did not glue it) and fixed all the details in the clamps, until the glue dries completely.
Here we see how the author removes the top part and fixes the tubes in their places. For this, he used a two-component epoxy adhesive. He smeared the seats with them and “sat down” the tubes on them. Then, with the same glue, he smeared the entire upper surface (wooden parts and tubes) and installed the second rectangle. The detail was fixed in clamps.
When everything froze, the author sanded the part along the front and back edges. The side edges also had irregularities (seen in the photo), he smoothed them on a circular saw. In principle, the template is almost ready. One detail is missing. About it in the next step.
It is necessary to set a reference point on the prepared part (I do not know if it can be called that), so that you can set the template according to the marks on the workpiece, in which you will need to drill holes. In general, at the end you will understand what it is about. On the edge of the template, using a vernier caliper, the author determined the middle of the long edge and put a mark. From there, using a ruler, I transferred the mark to a flat surface and draw a line.
The landmark (you can also call it a visor) was made of plexiglass. From the sheet, he cut off a workpiece of the required size, its width is equal to the length of the template, and its length is about 2.5-3 times its width. On the blank, the author made a markup and drew a line in the middle of that side, which is equal to the length of the template. To make this line clearly visible, I applied a couple of drops of paint to the surface and smeared them along the line. He carefully removed the remaining paint.
The author pasted over the template itself with masking tape on all edges and painted it from a spray can. In the photo, the difference between before and after is invisible, in the video, with good quality, it will be noticeable.
Having detached the second protective film, the author attached the visor to the template, aligning the lines on the details. Then they drilled along the edges of the hole and connected the parts with screws.
Now the template is finally ready and it's time to put it to the test. The author combines the details that need to be connected along the beveled sides and puts a mark in the middle of the joint using a ruler. Then he applies the template to one workpiece so that the line on the visor coincides with the mark. Fixes it with a clamp and drills holes of the required depth. Performs the same operation with the second workpiece. Then he installs the dowels and connects the parts. As you can see, the labels converged, everything turned out smoothly and neatly.
That's all for me, the promised video below.
P. S. Perhaps this is understandable, but I still want to add. You can make several such templates, in different sizes, with different distances between the tubes, if you very often use corner joints of different sizes. Moreover, the design is simple and you don't need much material for its manufacture.