Hello, dear readers and self-made people!
Not every workshop has a full-fledged milling machine, and many craftsmen assemble its counterparts on the basis of hand-held milling machines.
In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “JSK-koubou” will tell you how you can to make one of the simplest models of milling tables, as well as a number of accessories for it, expanding the functionality.
Such a milling table can be easily and quickly repeated even in a home workshop. No changes will be made to the design of the router, it will retain its functionality and can be used as usual.
Materials required for homemade products.
– Sheet MDF 9 mm thick, wooden timber
– Wing head screws < br> – Flush furniture nuts
– Wood screws, screws, sandpaper, wood glue, two-component epoxy glue.
Tools used by the author.
– Wood cutters
– Manual router
– Screwdriver, drilling machine
– Bit set for wood and metal
– Self-centering drills
– Wood drills with countersink
– Screwdriver with a set of bits
– Square, ruler, pencil.
First of all, the master cut out a table top from sheet MDF 9 mm thick with dimensions of 450 × 300 mm. The center is marked on the panel.
The standard sole is removed from the router – just unscrew the four fastening screws.
Using a compass and a ruler, you need to measure the inner diameter of the working window for the cutter, and mark the circle in the center of the prepared panel.
The sole of the router is laid out on the panel, and the outline of the marked circle is aligned with the outline of the window.
Using a screwdriver with a self-centering drill , the foreman drills copies of the fixing holes in the panel. Here you need to try to maintain a right angle to the surface.
A board and a pair of bars are placed under the panel. This is necessary so as not to damage the surface of the workbench when drilling. This whole structure is pressed against the workbench with clamps.
A hole with a diameter about 30 mm. For this, the author uses a crown .
The self-centering drill has made fine holes. They need to be widened and chamfered. You can also use countersink combo drill here.
The panel is now secured to the router with four countersunk screws. Regular screws will not work – they are too short.
The board that was previously used as a substrate will now serve as an anchor for the table top. It is laid out flush with the edge of the workbench, and is pressed with a pair of clamps. (The author slightly modernized them by tightening the elastic bands. This technique allows you to fasten the clamp with just one hand.)
The table with the router is superimposed on top, and the body of the router rests against the side of the workbench.
Now the table is attached to the board with several self-tapping screws around the perimeter. It is important that the hats are flush with the surface of the countertop, and the length of the screws is such that they do not go through the board.
To begin with, a cone cutter with a thrust bearing is installed on the router, and the router is fixed in place.
The main part of the milling table is ready, and you can chamfer a small part.
To comply with safety precautions, the master uses the so-called 3D pusher, holding the workpiece with it.
Making an analogue of such a pusher was described in detail in one of the articles .
The first additional device for such a table is a movable stop.
The author glues it from pairs of MDF rectangles and trimming of even processed timber.
The master controls the overhang of the cutter using a homemade altimeter, the manufacture of which is described in the recent article . Of course, there is also a factory digital height and depth meter .
Having set the overhang of a 6-mm cutter to 6 mm, the master mills a slot in the plywood panel.
A 6 mm steel pin is glued into the groove on the 2-part epoxy adhesive. The part rotates to the side to expose the pin angle to 90 degrees.
As a result, a second device is obtained, designed to form combs from spikes with a certain pitch (in this case – 6 mm).
Another steel cylinder of the same type is clamped between the cutter and the pin, and the panel is pressed against the movable stop with clamps . The temporary pin is removed.
Now the edge of the workpiece is pressed against the pin, and the first groove is milled.
The part is shifted to the side, and is put on the pin by the groove. Then the second groove is milled, and so on.
When the first part is ready, it unfolds 180 degrees, and its edge is used as the initial emphasis for the next, reciprocal detail.
Then the process is repeated, as with the first part.
As you may have guessed, in this way you can prepare parts for making boxes and boxes.
For the last device – an adjustable rotary stop, a hole is drilled in one of the corners of the base, and a furniture mortise nut is screwed into it.
A processed wooden beam will also serve as a stop. A hole is made in it for the axle.
The stop itself is attached to the table using wing-head screw .
As you can see, changing the angle of the stop changes the distance from the cutter to the edge of the stop.
Having set the stop so that it goes along the diagonal of the hole, the author puts two marks on it. After that, the emphasis is removed.
Using the first movable stop, and gluing two restrictive blocks on double-sided tape to the base, the master needs to make a selection in the new part.
Guided by the received marks, a selection of material is made at this point of the stop. Such a cavity is needed in order to be able to work with different cutters, and at different depths.
Another fixture is ready. The second edge of this stop is fixed with a clamp.
A safety pusher or similar device is also used here.
Of course, the power of such hand-held milling cutters is not great, and all operations are performed at a low feed rate of the workpieces. However, this does not change the safety rules!
I thank the author for the simple design of the milling table.
Good mood, good health, and interesting ideas to everyone!
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Author's video can be viewed here.
Hello, dear readers and self-made people!