Greetings to all lovers of homemade products and those who just looked at the site in search of interesting ideas. Surely many are familiar with this situation, you swear, for example, at the request of your wife, a shelf for the kitchen or a cutting board. And now the product is ready, but it would also be nice to mill the edge for complete beauty, but there is no router at hand. Well, do not buy such a not cheap device, if you use it extremely rarely, but it would also be useful on the farm. But almost every owner in the garage or workshop has a more popular tool – a grinder. And what many craftsmen do not remake this instrument. Catch another idea – a router based on a grinder. At the same time, the grinder will not suffer at all and, if necessary, it can be used for its intended purpose. The design is simple and does not require a lot of time and effort. Yes, materials are required at least, and you can find all of them in your workshop or garage. At the bottom, under the article, a video from the author will be fixed, after watching it, the process will become even more understandable. And so let's start.
* plexiglass (for the base of the router),
* metal bar with a diameter of 15-20 mm,
* metal pipe,
* metal strip,
* self-clamping (you can use a regular) drill chuck,
* self-tapping screws and small screws.
* drilling machine ,
* vernier caliper,
* lathe (but not required),
* drills and taps,
* cutting machine (you can use a grinder).
Perhaps I could have missed something from the list of tools or materials, in any case, everything will pop up in the description process)))
The author begins the process by installing the cartridge on the grinder screw. As you can see, the cartridge is not suitable for the thread. The author clamps it in the chuck of the lathe and drills the hole to a tedious diameter (the diameter can be controlled by the barbell in the video). Then he takes the tap and cuts the desired thread. Then I measured the diameter of the screw on the grinder near the body and used it to open the hole in the cartridge a little, so it is tightly screwed onto the screw.
Now the author proceeds to the manufacture of the nozzle itself as a whole. The first step was to make two racks. To do this, he needed a piece of bar. Having decided on the length of the racks, he turned the bar to the desired diameter on a lathe. In principle, if there is no machine tool, you can order ready-made racks in any workshop. Then I cut off two racks from the machined bar. According to the diameter of the racks, the author carved two bushings from the pipe. Additionally, I picked up a couple of springs for the diameter of the posts.
The next thing the author did was the sole. For this he used plexiglass. He cut the sheet he had in half. Then he cut one of the halves into two more identical parts. It was them that he used. Magu suggests that he used two parts because the plexiglass is thin. I glued the details along the edges with super glue. Then he made marks in the corners and drilled holes in them, screwed in screws.
At this stage, he marked the workpiece for the soleplate for the holes for installing the stands and for the milling bit. On a drilling machine, the author first drilled small holes. Then he increased the extreme to the diameter of the racks. Then he leveled the ends of the racks on a lathe and drilled a hole in one of each rack and cut a thread in it.
Next, the author installed in the holes on the foot of the rack and connected them with a metal strip crossbar. The last one was fixed with bolts. I checked the angle between the uprights and the sole with a square.
At this stage, the author made the ears so that the grinder can be attached to the bushings on the racks. From a metal strip (about 20 mm wide), he cut off two blanks of the same length and drilled holes in them on one side. They must match the holes on the grinder (for the handle attachment). I bent these parts in a vice, on which I had previously installed homemade sponges. Then the resulting parts were fixed with screws on the grinder. The tool placed between the struts and put marks on the bushings and ears. I removed the details and shortened them according to the marks.
At this stage, the author welded the ears to the bushings on the uprights. To do this, he set the grinder using a stand strictly at the desired level relative to the bushings. Then he removed the sole and drilled a hole for the bit in the center with a drill with a crown bit.
For additional strength, the author decided to install a stiffener between the bushings, it will also serve as additional protection. I cut a workpiece of a suitable length from a metal strip. Attached it to the grinder as shown in the photo. I put marks and on them I made a hem in a vice (like the ears). Then I welded the resulting bracket to the bushings.
Now it is necessary to provide additional fastening of the struts to the sole. To do this, in the edges of the sole opposite the holes for the posts, the author drilled holes and cut a thread in them, screwed in bolts with caps inside for a hexagon.
At this point, the author has replaced the top bar on the uprights. Before that, it was flat. But for better and more convenient work, I decided to make it in the shape of a grinder. So I cut off another strip, folded it up, cut it to size and fixed it on the stands.
Gradually we came to the finishing stage. The author has painted the bracket and the top bar. I installed the handle. I collected everything and tested it. The results are visible in the photo. Everything is also demonstrated in the video.