Greetings to all lovers of homemade products and those who just looked at the site in search of interesting ideas. Today I bring to your attention the option of making a small wood lathe. I am sure this design will come in handy in the workshop and garage. On it, you can easily carve a handle for a tool, a rolling pin or a crush, but you never know what will come in handy on the farm. In addition, to implement the idea, the author of sowing the creation, used a minimal set of materials (everything can be purchased without any problems at the scrap metal collection point) and tools. In general, if you are interested in this idea, you are welcome. And so let's get started. To make the manufacturing process more understandable, I will fix a video from the author below.
I will not give the exact dimensions, since everything is relative and you can choose everything for yourself.
* channel (on a vskidku, 10-12 cm wide), < br> * metal strip,
* sheet metal,
* threaded rod,
* metal pipe,
* bolts with nuts and washers.
< br> * Bulgarian,
* welding machine,
* drilling machine,
* lathe (you can do with emery, so the author uses a lathe to sharpen the cone (stud) for the tailstock),
* marking tool.
At the beginning, you need to make the main part of the machine – the bed. To do this, we cut off the workpiece of the required length from the channel, it all depends on the length of the parts that you are going to produce on the future machine. We mark on the workpiece and drill holes according to the marks. First with an ordinary drill, then with a crown bit, as the author does. Next, we connect the holes with straight lines and cut a groove along them along the entire length of our part. We process the edges of the cut with a grinder with a petal circle. The base frame is ready.
The next detail that the author made is the tailstock. From the same channel, we cut a workpiece of a suitable length. This is the base of the headstock. Further, from the metal strip (section about 20×5 mm), we cut off two parts with a length equal to the length of the workpiece from the channel. We weld these strips to the shelves of the channel in the same way as the author does. On the resulting part, we carry out the markup and drill a hole. We fix what we have on the bed with the help of a bolt, nut and washer. We cut the bolt with a grinder, we don't need anything extra.
We continue assembling the headstock. From the strip (here already a cross-section of approximately 50×10 mm) we cut off a workpiece approximately 50×50 mm in size. We try it on on the basis. We weld in the middle. Debugging the framework aside. We take our threaded rod. We screw three nuts on it so that their faces are in the same plane. We clamp the hairpin in a vice and, without twisting the nuts, weld them together. After that, we twist what we got and process the seams with a grinder.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Wood lathe from drill and scrap metal" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-05/1622050052_23.jpg"/>
Now we try on our elongated nut to the rib on the base plate and weld it. We cut the hairpin (more precisely, a long bolt) to the desired length, take the part with the cap. We grind the butt under the cone. We select a suitable part, as the author does, and weld it to the head, we get a handle. We screw the nut onto the resulting part. We screw the result into the base. The tailstock is ready.
From the same channel we cut off another part of a suitable size (I think from the photo and video, it will not be difficult to calculate its length) and try it on to our frame as shown in the photo. Then we weld on this part. Further, from the strip, we cut off the workpiece with a length equal to the width of the channel and try it on in place. We also weld it.
We continue assembling, you guessed it, the headstock. From the pipe we cut off a blank-ring with a width equal to the width of the previously cut strip. We process the edges on the machine, finish them with a file. Then we take a small elongated nut. Clamp in teak, reamer and weld to our ring. Next, we cut the nut with a ring in the middle. Then we weld what we have to the plate. A drill will be attached to this node.
Now we are starting to manufacture (if I can call it that, I don’t really get into woodworking machines) of the caliper. Cut off a piece of strip of the required length. We put markings on it and drill two holes. We connect them with lines (as is the case with the bed). Cut out the excess with a grinder and process the cut. We cut a workpiece of a suitable length from the strip; it should be equal to the distance from the top point of the bed to the level of the centers between the headstock. Using a magnetic square, weld it perpendicular to the previously prepared part.
Next, cut off a piece of a corner (shelf of about 50 mm) of a suitable length. On one shelf, cut the corners at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. This is a support platform for the incisors. We also try it on to the rack strictly in the middle and weld it on the inside of the shelf. We fix the finished unit on the bed, as well as the tailstock, using a bolt, a wide washer and a nut. We also cut off the excess part of the bolt so that it does not interfere. You can, of course, choose shorter bolts so as not to spoil the long ones, apparently the author did not have those. The machine is almost ready.
At the final stage, it is necessary to provide for a convenient and quick fastening, with the help of which it will be possible to fasten the machine to any convenient site, be it a workbench, a small table or any other flat surface. To do this, cut off two workpieces of the required length from a corner with a suitable shelf, about 10 cm more than the width of the bed. I cut one shelf of each workpiece at the corners at an angle of 45 degrees. On the second shelf, we carry out the markup as shown in the photo. Two holes were drilled along it. Then we try on the resulting parts along the edges of the bed with cut-off shelves and weld them. Next, we try on a drill in the landing nest, take a piece of the bar and install a trident in its previously marked end. We paint the machine in the color we like. We fix the trident in the chuck of the drill, from the second side we squeeze the workpiece with the cone of the tailstock. Everything is as it should, we clamp it, set the caliper and proceed to testing. The result is such a conical blank.
That's all. I attach a video below.
Thank you all for your attention, if you like the idea, take note. Good luck to everyone and see you again, visiting Samodelkin !!!!