Hello, dear readers and homemade products!
One of the main devices in the workshop is a workbench, on which the mystery of creating things takes place. The construction of the workbench must be very strong and reliable, in addition, it also accommodates a carpentry vice and other additional equipment that ensures ease of use.
In this article, John, the author of the YouTube channel “John Heisz – I Build It”, will tell you how to integrate retractable stops (Americans call them “dogs”) into the workbench tabletop.
This project is quite simple to manufacture, and easy to implement even in a small carpentry workshop.
Materials required for homemade products.
– A set of springs < br>– Hardwood board, sheet plywood, pins
– Joiner's glue, linseed oil, sandpaper.
Tools used by the author.
– Manual router, cutters with thrust bearing
– Lamellar router < br> – Screwdriver, Forstner drills
– Multifunctional guide for drill
– Belt sander
– Miter, band, and circular saws
– Spring clamps
– Planer, chisels
– Vernier caliper, digital angle meter
– Tape measure, ruler, pencil.
First, several rows of holes are carefully marked and drilled in the workbench tabletop, at some distance from its edge. For the accuracy and precision of drilling holes, in this case it is appropriate to use a guide. The master uses as it a strip of sheet MDF with an even edge.
The guide is fixed on the workbench with a pair of clamps.
Also, the author uses a vertical guide for a screwdriver , and drills holes 25 mm (in) in diameter and 50 mm deep in the countertop. To do this, use Forstner's drill .
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "We build lifting stops in the workbench" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-06/1622580678_dg-011.jpg"/> To get strictly a given depth of holes, a limiting block (plywood block) of the corresponding width is fixed on the side wall of the machine with a spring clamp .
The depth of the holes is controlled with a caliper .
For each stop you need a pair of holes: one for the retractable “dog”, the other for the “button” lifting .
The distance between them is 35 mm. All marks are plotted on the guide.
You should immediately determine the number of such paired holes. The master will have 9 pairs (18 holes) in the workbench.
Now the guide is shifted deep into the table top, and two more pairs of such holes are drilled.
A cutter with a thrust bearing is installed on the router, and a small chamfer is removed at the top of the holes.
At the next stage, V-shaped levers are made, on the ends of which the button and stop will rest.
Prototyping is done first. The author preliminarily makes several models of levers with different angles of rotation. The angle of the lever determines how high the pawl will rise above the surface of the tabletop when the button is pressed, and how smoothly your mechanism will operate.
Experiencedly, John has found that the optimal angle is 140 degrees between the arms of the lever.
After a successful configuration is found, the outline of the prototype is transferred to the plywood, and it will no longer be difficult to cut out a stack of such levers. The master does it on a band saw.
Finishing of parts is performed on a belt sander.
Now we are faced with a rather difficult task to cut a tunnel below, in the thickness of the material, connecting the bases of the two holes. A ready-made lever will subsequently be placed in this tunnel.
To accomplish this task, the master resorts to a fairly simple solution. As a guide for Forstner drills will serve as a bar in which a hole is drilled at an angle of the same diameter as the drill shank. We now have a guide to drill the inner tunnels.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "We build lifting stops in the workbench" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-06/1622580715_dg-067.jpg"/> Next, the remaining unselected material is scraped manually with a half-inch chisel .
Inside the lever is placed and two test cylinders are inserted. The mechanism works.
The dogs themselves »Will be made of beautiful wood of moldy maple. The initial alignment of the two reference surfaces is done using a hand plane .
The harvested block is dismissed on a circular saw into bars with a section of 25 × 25 mm.
large pins on a milling machine. To do this, use a 25 mm radius cutter with a bottom thrust bearing (a parallel stop is required here).
First, he grinds the end of the block, and checks the fit of the diameter to the hole. The part must enter practically without a gap, otherwise dust and sawdust will quickly clog the mechanism.
Having chosen the required diameter By changing the cutter overhang, the author first rounds off all four edges.
Then several passes are made with turning the dowel 45 degrees.
Hazel wood bars are processed in the same way. This preset is for buttons.
At the end of the process all ends of the round timber are cut off with a miter saw. We now have different colored parts for buttons and dogs.
The master inserts the dowel “Dogs” almost to the stop in depth, and cuts the details of the stops. Each hole should be marked individually.
Each such insert must be either flush with the surface of the table top. It is better to check it by drawing a ruler or a square over it.
Next, he takes up cutting out the buttons. These parts will be slightly shorter in height, since in the lower position of the stop, the second arm of the lever is raised. To accurately determine the length of the button, you need to drown the “dog” in the hole so that the lever comes into action. Its second edge will rise just as far as the button should be cut.
The mechanism is ready and working, but when the button is pressed sharply, the stop flies out of the hole. This can be easily fixed.
The master places the workpieces on a stand with a V-slot and places it under the drilling machine. So, in each piece of round timber, a blind radial hole of 10 mm with a diameter for a spring is drilled.
In the compressed state, the spring will be held by a short piece of 10 mm dowel. Such small bushings, when the spring is straightened inside the hole, will behave like spacers and provide the necessary grip.
After cutting the cylinders, chamfer is removed at their ends.
Having picked up suitable compression springs, the author inserts them into the holes of the stops, and presses them with a plug. Holding the cap flush with the edge of the stop, the latter is set in place.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "We build lifting stops in the workbench" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-06/1622580682_dg-178.jpg"/> Even with a sharp pressed, now the emphasis does not jump out. The rest of the stops are mounted in the same way.
In the case of buttons the author uses a different technology (since the necessary springs are no longer in stock). This time, these will be pieces of foam rubber that will create a springy effect.
It remains to rub the upper parts of the stops and the surface of the workbench around the holes with fine-grained sandpaper, and then soak in linseed oil.
The scope of application of such a device is quite wide. Retractable stops are very convenient when milling grooves in details with a lamellar router .
The author deliberately made three rows of retractable stops to fit the width of the workpiece.
The same stops can be made on the other side of the workbench for wide panels.
You can also combine the work of such stops with the movable jaw of the joinery vice. This will allow you to clamp large parts.
Thanks to John for the simple design of the built-in sliding stops for the workbench.
Good mood, good health, and interesting ideas to everyone!
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Author's video can be viewed here.
Hello, dear readers and homemade products!