DIY

Triac heating control unit

Triac heating control unit Hello, dear visitors of the site “Visiting Samodelkin”. This article presents a variant of a water heating regulator block on a triac.
There was a task (order) – to make a heating regulator for a moonshine still. Capacity – aluminum can-flask for 40 liters. Previously, milk was poured there. (Fig. Flask)
Heating regulator block on the triac Heater – heating element (~ 3kw).
And there were already handkerchiefs RTV1-1 (current regulator) for 400W with a TC106-10 triac. (Fig. 1 Fig. 2).
 Triac heating regulator block Triac heating regulator block This is a phase-pulse regulator power on the triac. The TC106-10 triac was soldered out, and instead of it, the TC122-25-5 triac was soldered by wires. A trimming resistor is also soldered, and a variable resistor is soldered on the wires. The triac is installed on a cooling radiator from two duralumin plates.
Materials and tools for the manufacture of the Block:
– scarf РТВ1-1
– triac ТС122-25-5
– contact clamps ЗН16-4 УХЛ4 (4pcs) on the bar (Fig. 3)
– transformer USH 10×20
– indicator M68501 (550 ohm)
– variable resistor SP3-30 220kom
– packet switch 16A (4 positions)
– diode 1N5817
– resistors MLT-0.25 W, capacitors
– wire type PUGV stranded 7×0.5mm
– PVA wire 2×1.5 mm2 (3m)
– mounting wire 0.2 mm2
– cambric
– fiberglass (1 , 5mm) one-sided, 21x38mm
– screws
– sandwich plate 5mm thick
– drill with drills
– file for metal, hacksaw, pliers, screwdrivers
– soldering iron (90W), POS61 solder, flux, tweezers
– ruler, scribe
Triac heating regulator block The schematic diagram of the block is shown in Fig. 4.
Triac heating control unit Power the lines in the diagram are shown in blue. The installation of power lines was carried out with a wire from an old electric stove with an oven. Stranded (7×0.5mm) wire of the PUGV type with a cross section of S = 1.37 mm2. (Fig. 7)
Heating regulator block on triac Installation view shown in Figure 8
Heating regulator block on a triac Figure 5 shows a diagram of the current indicator shawl.
Triac heating control unit The current transformer is wound on the USH 10×20 core. The secondary winding is wound with the first layer of 600 turns with a 0.1mm PEV-2 wire. On top of it, through the insulation layer, 1 turn of the power wire is passed.
On a handkerchief made of one-sided PCB (21×38 mm), nickle tracks are cut according to the diagram (Fig. 5). Radio elements are soldered to them.
Fig.6 shows the front panel of the case. It is cut from a plastic-wood-plastic sandwich plate 5 mm thick.
Triac heating regulator block The bottom wall on which the parts of the regulator are mounted is also cut from the same material. Holes for cooling and holes for cables are drilled in the bottom wall under the radiator fins.
 triac The rest of the walls are made of plastic. Fastened with screws.
The heating element is connected to the unit with a two-core wire PVS 2×1.5 (2m)
The unit is connected to a 230V network (outlet) with a PVA 2×1.5 wire (1m) and a Euro plug (16A) at the end.
The packet switch has 4 positions. The first 2 – disabled state, 3 – turning on the heating element through the regulator. The current value is set by a variable resistor. Sighted (controlled) by the current indicator. 4th position – full inclusion of heating elements (directly to the network)
Power to the socket to which the unit is connected is supplied from a 16A circuit breaker (characteristic C). Therefore, I did not do much defense. And he warned the Customer that there should be a circuit breaker. Moreover, his dacha is wooden ..
The adjustment was checked on a 200W incandescent light bulb. At low current, the spiral does not tremble or blink (Fig. 10).
Triac heating regulator block When fully opened, the triac burns with full glow (Fig. 11)
Triac heating regulator block For testing the regulator for power close to the set one, I used a 1.9 kW LENTEL kettle as a load. with filled water = 1 liter ..
 The block of the heating regulator on the triac The water boiled, and the radiator of the triac became warm.
 triac

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