Hello, dear readers and DIY!
When working with a circular saw, two conditions must be observed – safety and convenience. This is especially true when you need to make a cut at an angle, or cut a small part.
In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “Gonzalo Ré” will tell you how to make a carriage for corner cuts with workpiece clamps.
This is a very simple project, and it can be easily repeated in a small carpentry workshop.
Materials required for DIY.
– Cam clamps
– Bakelite wing nuts
– Furniture wing nuts
– Sheet plywood, board
– Bolts, wood screws with countersunk head
– Titebond wood glue, sandpaper.
Tools used by the author.
– Hand router, wood cutters
– Wood cutter dovetail
– Wood drills with countersink
– Circular saw
– Svenson square, malk
– Tape measure, combined square, pencil .
The first step is to cut a rectangular carriage base from 12mm plywood. In Spain, plywood is made not from birch, but eucalyptus.
Two strips are also cut out for a movable guide. Their length is the same as at the base.
This thickness is not enough for the guide, and the master glues two strips together. If you have 30mm plywood, you can use it.
So that the strips do not slide relative to each other, the author screws in self-tapping screws at the beginning and end of the strip.
This technique cannot be called convenient, and it is inapplicable if it is necessary to preserve the entire front surface of the product. In this case, it is much easier to put some coarse salt on the glue.
Now the parts are pressed against the edge of the workbench with clamps for better adhesion.
After the glue hardens, the master drives the strip on a circular saw, leveling the edges.
Then, using the carriage, the ends of the guide are aligned. Making a simple carriage for a circular saw was described in detail in a recent article .
From the narrow edge of the guide the author steps back 70 mm, and marks the line with combined square . From the ends of the resulting line, you need to retreat 30 mm and put marks. The same marking is done on the second edge of the base.
Through holes are drilled in these places with an 8-mm drill. These will be the ends of the slot.
Another homemade device from the master is an impromptu milling table based on a hand router . The production of its improved version is described in the following article .
Installing an 8-mm straight cutter for wood , and by adjusting the position of the parallel stop, the slot in the base is milled. One of the holes just serves as the entrance for the cutter.
The same operation is repeated on the second edge of the carriage base.
So, the slots under the body of the m8 round head bolt are ready, now you need to make an extension for the head.
Without changing the position of the parallel stop, the master installs a larger diameter cutter and sets its overhang at 4 mm. This is how the undersides of the base are milled. The result is two T-shaped grooves.
Before processing the guide, do not forget to unscrew the screws screwed in during gluing!
A wide groove 10 mm deep is cut along the center line of the guide.
Next, a dovetail cutter is installed. Its overhang remains 10 mm, but the parallel stop must be moved closer to the spindle axis.
This is how the master processes both edges of the groove, obtaining a trapezoidal section.
The resulting groove is intended for movable fastening of a pair of cam clamps , which will fix the workpiece on the carriage.
With the help of a bevel, the master measures the angle of inclination of the groove sides, and sets the exact same inclination of the saw blade on the circular saw. For dovetail cutters, this angle is most often 14 degrees.
Considering the width of the groove, the master cuts out a plate with a trapezoidal section from plywood.
The resulting part should easily fit into the groove of the guide. To reduce friction, surfaces should be treated with paraffin.
This blank is cut into two identical platforms of sliders.
Two counter holes are drilled in the guide for clamping screws. The distance between them is the same as between the grooves in the base.
Having inserted the cutter into the hole, the master mills the groove in both directions (30 mm from the hole ) along the centerline.
This will allow you to change the angle of the guide relative to the base.
On each of the two sliders it is fixed on a rectangular block, the width of which coincides with the guide.
This will provide additional rigidity of the movable joint, as well as increase the maximum clamping height.
During gluing, the parts are clamped in clamps .
After the glue hardens, the glue joint must be reinforced with countersunk screws. Pilot holes are drilled for them using wood drills with countersink .
Now cam clamps are attached to the blocks.
So, all the elements of the caret are ready. First, both movable blocks with clamps are pushed into the guide.
A strip is glued to the end of the guide. Its end should protrude somewhat beyond its working edge. This kind of “tooth” will serve as an additional stopper for the workpiece being processed.
It remains to insert the screws into place and screw on them wing nuts … The master made them from plywood discs and shoulder nuts .
This is how easy it will be to adjust the angle of the guide.
Thanks to such clamps, you can fix both large and very small parts on the carriage. < br> The height of the clamp can be adjusted with the clamping screw or with shims.
The first step is to move the parallel stop together with the carriage so that its edge practically touches the saw blade .
The workpiece is laid out on the carriage, the desired cutting angle is set, and the guide is fixed with clamping nuts.
The end of the part rests against the stopper, if necessary, blocks are placed under the jaws, and the clamps are blocked.
As you can see, the process can be completely controlled even by moving the carriage with one hand.
In order not to adjust the position of the rip fence every time, a matching guide bar for the groove in the sawing table can be glued to the bottom of the carriage.
There are also special sliders for T-tracks , which ensure smooth running and no backlash.
With this carriage, you can cut even at a very sharp angle.
I thank the author for the simple design of the carriage for corner cuts on a circular saw.
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Author's video can be viewed here.
Hello, dear readers and DIY!