Hello, dear readers and homemade products!
Some of you already have experience with insulation like extruded polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and their analogs. When laying elements from such materials, you need to use either a factory “lock” in the form of a quarter, or, when adjusting the dimensions, form it yourself.
Such a joining almost completely eliminates the possibility of the formation of “cold bridges”, cracks, and promotes dense packing of insulation .
In this article Andrey, the author of the YouTube channel of the same name “Shayter Andrey”, will tell you how you can make a universal cutter to work with such heaters.
The first version of the cutter is easily made from scraps of plywood, and the second can be printed on a 3D printer .
Materials needed for homemade products.
– Sheet plywood
– Filament for 3D printing
– Neodymium magnets
– Linseed oil or varnish, sandpaper, countersunk head screws.
Tools used by the author.
– Wood drills with countersink
– Hand circular saw
– 3D printer < br> – Vernier caliper, building level
– Tape measure, square, pencil
– Universal knife, blades.
Several years ago, Andrei already made a similar cutter, the design of which became very popular, and many craftsmen repeated it. It was tested on Evgeny Matveev's channel, and Viktor Nikitin also made his own version (there was a detailed article about this model on the site).
This time Andrey decided to show an improved model of the cutter, the features of its manufacture and use not only 30 mm, but also for 50 mm insulation.
The first task is to prepare the end face of the part before cutting the quarter. The peculiarity is that the plane of the edge and the surface of the panel should be orthogonal to each other, and the edge itself should be perfectly flat.
When cutting out elements from 30-mm insulation, this problem does not show up as brightly as on thicker, 50mm sheets.
If this operation is done “under the ruler” with an ordinary utility knife, then the plane of the edge will move “in a wave” or “propeller”, and it is also unlikely that a 90-degree angle will be obtained.
Of course, Andrey will tell you about the techniques to solve this problem and also about cutting out regular quarters.
All corners formed by edges must be equal to 90 degrees.
One of the most common and common sizes of insulation thickness is 30 and 50 mm. The problem when creating a universal cutter is that the “locks” or quarters themselves are different for these plates.
For 50 mm, the edge height is 25 mm, and the step width is 15 mm. For 30-mm slabs, the castle planes have the same width – 15 mm.
The torch body requires two 150x50mm plywood blocks. The third part, which plays the role of a side stop, will be slightly wider, 150 × 60 mm.
The thickness of the first bar should be is equal to 25 mm, and the second is 15 mm. The bars themselves are glued from sheet plywood, thus gaining the required thickness.
The thickness of the stop can be arbitrary , but not less than 5 mm. In this case, all the bars are glued from 8 mm plywood, and slightly sanded to the desired thickness.
Two blades will serve as cutters – one piece, and the second is slightly shortened by a couple of segments.
The thickest block of the body is laid to one side, and there are two blades on it. The shortened blade is located almost 45 degrees to the sole, and its overhang is 16-17 mm.
A whole, long blade, is laid out end-to-end to the previous one (at the same angle), and its overhang is 26-27 mm.
The fragments of the blade, broken off from the shortened cutter, must be positioned along the edges of the bar. This will create a kind of remote tabs.
The second, 15-mm half of the case is neatly installed on top.
Of course, in the details of the case, you need to prepare pilot holes for the mounting screws in advance by drilling them with a wood drill with countersink .
It remains to pull off the halves of the case with two countersunk self-tapping screws. Both blades will be securely clamped.
emphasis. Its edge should protrude 10 mm beyond the sole.
Before assembly, it is important to check the orthogonality of the planes of the body parts, and grind them. Then both blades will stand strictly perpendicular to the sole, and will be in the same plane.
Andrey messed up a little while assembling, and put together a version “for left-handers”. In it, the blades are turned in the other direction.
Everything is corrected very simply – you need to loosen the clamping screws and turn the blades.
They are replaced in the same way. In order not to unscrew the stop for replacing the blades, you can screw in the tightening screws of the body from the other side. You can also replace self-tapping screws with flare nuts and wing-head screws .
Immediately you need to make a simple protection for the blades from damage during storage, and also so as not to get hurt by them. To do this, it is enough to drive the cutter into a 30-mm piece of insulation, and cut off its excess flush with the sides of the body.
The tool is almost ready, its surfaces need to be impregnated with linseed oil, or a couple of layers of acrylic varnish should be applied. Then the wood will be protected from moisture.
An advanced version of this cutter was developed by the master and for 3D printing, it already has body elements, a clamp, a cover, and also provides storage space for replaceable blades.
All elements of the 3D model can be downloaded from the following link, courtesy of Andrey. < br> If you do not have your own 3D printer , you can find printer owners in your city who are ready to print models on the following website .
The cover serves in two positions – during carrying and storage, it covers the blades, and in the working position is installed on top of the body in the form of an ergonomic handle.
To prepare the edge of the insulation, you need to put a level or a rule with a wide base on the sheet.
Pressing the blade plane to the bottom of the level, the first three passes are made with gradual deepening.
The final cut is made already at full blade extension and without using a guide. The blade will find its way into the previously formed slot.
And this is how the printed version of the cutter looks like. There are currently two blades installed and the cutter is set to work with 50mm insulation.
Two neodymium magnets are glued inside the lid to hold the spare blades.
The first pass is done as follows. The distance from the edge to the slot is 15 mm. Two blades work here at once, of which the first is a wedging blade. This makes the cutter very easy to move.
The protrusion of the main blade is 25 mm, and from the end you need to deepen by the same 15 mm. And here, too, everything is thought out – just put the cutter on one side and use the second stop plane.
You can delete in the same way , or cut off the factory lock by cutting it to the other side.
As you can see, everything is done very conveniently in the design, and it can be easily reconfigured to work with a 30 mm sheet. The second long blade is simply removed.
Thank Andrey for the original idea and implementation of designs of two cutter options for insulation!
Good mood, strong health, and interesting ideas!
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You will find details of working with these cutters in the author's video.
Hello, dear readers and homemade products!