Hello, dear readers and DIY!
Many of you often work with a hand circular saw, and know how difficult it is to make an accurate cut at an angle of 90 degrees to the edge of the workpiece. This is especially true of small parts made of sheet materials such as chipboard, MDF, as well as boards and beams.
Of course, if you need to make a couple of cuts, then you can use a guide in the form of a rule, or a building level. In this case, each time you will have to carry out the marking, and fix the guide on the workpiece.
If you have to cut a large number of parts, you need a different solution that saves a lot of time.
In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “Gökmen ALTUNTAŞ” will tell you how to make a guide for a circular saw that allows you to quickly trim workpieces at an angle of 90 degrees. In this case, only segments of the required length will need to be marked on the part, without the cutting line itself.
This project is very simple to make, and can be easily repeated even in a small home workshop.
Materials necessary for homemade products.
– Furniture rails (for boxes)
– A set of screws
– Wooden beams, sheet plywood
– Acrylic sheet, countersunk head wood screws, oversized washers
– Super-glue 502, linseed oil or varnish, double-sided tape, sandpaper.
Tools used by the author.
– Hand circular saw
– Saw blades
– Wood drills with countersink
– Threaded drill
– Screwdriver with bit set
– Checking square, tape measure, marker.
For a sample, the master marked the cutting line, and made a cut, focusing on it. As you can see, the accuracy in this case is low.
The master begins making this homemade product with a carriage.
4-mm plywood will serve as the material for the base of the carriage. A rectangular blank should be cut out of it, taking into account the dimensions of the base of the circular saw with a margin of 10 mm on each side. The base dimensions for this circular saw model are 300 x 151 mm.
Then a 10 mm strip is cut out of 10 mm plywood, and four sides are made from it. The ends of the strips are cut at an angle of 45 degrees so that they fit well.
Two more slightly wider slats will serve as sole retainers.
Using cyanoacrylate second glue , the master glues the sides along the perimeter of the base.
First, a long side is glued, and the sole of the circular saw is installed on the base.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Guide for trimming with hand-held circular saw" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-06/1623457843_mns-012.jpg"/> The other three sides are glued end-to-end to the sole. This is how the master achieves a snug fit in the future carriage.
Here you need to be careful not to glue the sole to the base.
Further, on the long side, closest to the saw blade, a lining bar is glued, and then a retainer bar. It turns out a kind of L-shaped lock for the sole.
To pull out or install the saw, just tilt the sole a little and move it to the side.
Using a screwdriver and a wood drill with countersink , the master drills pilot holes, and additionally fixes the lock bar with a pair of self-tapping screws. It is necessary to choose the length of the screws in advance so that they do not pierce the carriage through and through, but also go deep enough, pulling the parts.
From the second the side of the sole will be fixed on the carriage with a pair of self-tapping screws with oversized washers.
Here self-tapping screws are screwed into the middle of the side.
Now you need to make a working slot. The author places the plane of the saw blade behind the edge of the tabletop, raises the protection, and makes a cut.
The carriage is ready.
The next part of the homemade product is the carriage guide. It is based on a strip of 5 mm acrylic sheet of the same width as the carriage.
The so-called “telescopes” – furniture runners for drawers 278 × 27 mm will serve as guides.
Based on their length at maximum overhang, the required length of the acrylic strip is determined. Here its dimensions are 470 × 150 mm.
Now two strips of double-sided tape are glued to the acrylic base as follows.
Using a plywood block in the form of a stop, the master glues the guides along the edges of the base. This way he achieves parallelism of both guides.
Of course , such an attachment is not enough, and by sliding the sliders to the side, the master drills through holes in the acrylic. Here you need to remember to put a plate so as not to spoil the table top.
Then in holes are tapped with an m4 thread using a tap .
Next you need to fix the rails to the base using screws .
To attach the carriage to the guides, the wizard uses the same technique with double-sided tape.
When the carriage is applied, both guides must be pushed all the way (in the closed position).
And again, a small block serves as a side stop. This aligns the wide edges of the acrylic base and carriage.
Turning the carriage over, holes are prepared in it for screws with a threaded drill .
The furniture rails are screwed to the carriage with screws.
As you can see, the master made selections on one of the sides, otherwise mounted elements.
The saw is installed in the carriage and fixed.
Now you need to make a long cut in the acrylic base.
Using a square , the craftsman marks a perpendicular line on the base of the acrylic base.
From the beginning of the cut, you need to make a margin to a line of 30-40 mm.
The last structural element is the cross stop. Its role can be played by both a straight piece of timber and a glued block of several plywood strips. In this particular case, its dimensions are 240 × 55 × 36 mm.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Guide for trimming with hand-held circular saw" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-06/1623457910_mns-247.jpg"/> The block is oriented along the marked line, pressed against the sole with the help of F-clamps.
The structure is inverted , with a wood drill with countersink , pilot holes are prepared, and the block is screwed to the base with countersunk screws.
A pair of additional screws are driven into the block through the furniture guide.
As seen , the height of the stop should be such that a margin of about 30 mm remains at full overhang of the disc.
All wooden surfaces are sanded and soaked in linseed oil.
Finally, the fixture is ready.
the square is marked with a cutting line, a slot in the base is set along it, and you can cut it.
The result is an accurate cut at 90 degrees, which can be repeated by moving the structure to the next mark.
Thanks to the author for the simple design of the miter guide for the circular saw.
All the best mood, good health, and interesting ideas!
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The author's video can be viewed here.
Hello, dear readers and DIY!