Let's simplify the situation, let's mark the timber harvesting, drying and knotting. We even exclude milling work to give a beautiful, three-dimensional profile. Not everyone has the carpentry skills and the right tool. Yes, and this job is dusty.
You just need to visit a hardware store and select the profile you like in the form of a floor plinth or a baguette in the appropriate department. The width is selected in proportion to the size of the photo or canvas.
Next, the purchased goods are sawn into blanks with a small tolerance
and before filing the corners, a quarter is selected under the stretcher. Since I abandoned the milling machine, there are several options left.
First, you need to take a small plane and monotonously, for a long time, and tediously cut a quarter. In this case, the depth of this very quarter on the workpieces to be processed will be conditionally the same.
Second, you need to take a hand-held circular saw, turning it with the cutting part up, as I did. Or, if available, use a stationary rip and cross sawing machine.
Using the clamps, I set the cut-off stop of a quarter from a high bar and adjusted the height of the saw blade, taking into account the thickness of the plinth. The saw should not go outside the profile.
So in two steps it turned out to choose a quarter, which has the same geometry and depth.
Having finished this operation, I removed the limiter from the receiving platform as unnecessary and proceeded to set the angle of 45 degrees on the sawing platform … Along the line drawn in advance, I scrolled the stop with screws.
The site is very simple. On a piece of chipboard to the bottom, a guide rail is screwed onto the screws, thanks to which the platform moves along the saw blade. The rail should protrude beyond the platform for easy insertion of the workpiece under the saw. The stops are screwed to the upper part that set the cutting angles of ninety and forty-five degrees.
First, I sawed down one corner on all the blanks, then I measured the length of the canvas perimeter, transferred it to the details and sawed down the corners using the marks.
Checked the correctness sawed down sizes, laid out the sticks along the contour of the canvas, made sure that everything is in order and you can start gluing.
You can glue in different ways, for small frames the option with the use of clamps is suitable. Bars are screwed onto the base, setting a right angle. The sawn-off workpieces are lubricated with glue and covered with clamps.
For larger sizes, a tie can be applied using triangular spacers. The parts are greased with glue, a frame is laid out, two triangles are placed on each side and twisted around the perimeter twice with twine. To create a snug fit of the sawn-off parts, mix the triangles to the corners. Or, as another option, with the help of a partner, if the size allows, they put on a bicycle camera, which shrinks the corners of the frame
These methods good for rectangular and thick sections of parts. In my case, the workpiece is very flat, there was no need to make a device for gluing one frame, this is not in-line production, the time is not limited, and therefore, using the clamps, I glued each corner separately with PVA glue.
Having finished with the last corner, armed with sandpaper, I walked over the assembled product, paying special attention to the gluing points. No matter how cool the machine that released the skirting board I bought is, you need to prepare its products before painting.
Decided to tint “BEYTSEM”, if anyone does not know, it is a nitro-based pigment that has many colors. I applied the tone with ordinary foam rubber. After drying, the applied layer, I applied a matte nitro varnish. It is good because it does not reflect light when illuminated, thereby masking minor flaws and dries quickly.
This is how the project was completed and the canvas I painted took its place on the wall in my house.