Hello, dear readers and DIY!
One of the classic and extremely important carpentry tools is the chisel. Many people want to mechanize this tool, and speed up the workflow.
In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “KUI Iron” will tell you how you can make a nozzle for a grinder that turns it into an electric chisel.
This project is not very difficult to manufacture, and it will require a small amount of welding work.
Materials needed for DIY.
– Sheet steel 5 mm thick
– Extended nuts m12, bolts
– Steel 12 mm rod, pipe
– Engine speed regulator 220v 2000 W – – Compression springs, steel 65Mn – Bearings
– Eccentric bearings – – Needle bearings – – Chisels
– Abrasive “coral” scraper disc
– Protective gloves, spray paint.
Tools used by the author.
– Grinder with speed regulator
– Screwdriver, drilling machine
– Metal crowns
– Tap holder, tap, semi-automatic core < br> – Drills for metal
– Welding machine
– Welder's magnetic corners, welding mask – – Geifer gripper, F-clamps – Machine vice, pliers, oiler
– Square, tape measure, marker.
So, from small things you will need three extended nuts m12, bolts, and an old bearing (or rather, a clip from it).
The material for the base of the nozzle will be a plate with dimensions of 160 × 52 mm. Its master cuts out of steel sheet 5 mm thick.
Installing the metal crown on the drilling machine, the master drills a hole in the plate of the same diameter as the seat for the protective cover on the grinder. When drilling, be sure to add machine oil so as not to burn the incisors of the crown.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Electric grinder & mdash; do-it-yourself grinder attachment" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-06/1623703564_spr-028.jpg"/> < a href = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-06/1623703659_spr-033.jpg" rel = "prettyPhoto"> A steel bar with a diameter of 12 mm will serve as a rod, and a pair of elongated m12 nuts will play a role guide. These details need to be prepared.
The first master processes the nuts. Be sure to fix them in a machine vice, the thread is cut off in the nuts by drilling.
Having clamped the bar in the chuck of the screwdriver, the master processes its surface on a belt grinder.
The production of a similar machine was described in detail in a recent article .
As a result, both nuts should be freely (but without backlash) put on the stem.
These elements will be positioned on the wireframe along the centerline. The excess parts of the plate can be removed later.
After drilling and cutting, the master processes the edges and rounds the corners with a grinder. < br> The surfaces of the plate are cleaned with a grinder from a “coral” abrasive disc.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Electric grinder & mdash; attachment for the grinder with your own hands" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-06/1623703608_spr-077.jpg"/> Now you need to make a clamp that will attach the nozzle to the grinder. Considering the diameter of the seat for the protective casing, the master selects a pipe of a slightly larger diameter and cuts off a ring from it.
The ring is cut lengthwise (a C-shaped part is obtained), and the surfaces of the workpiece are ground.
For the second part of the clamp, an elongated nut is suitable, in one of the faces of which you need to make a semicircular recess with the same curvature as the ring.
Half of the thread is drilled into the elongated nut and welded to the clamp on both sides. After welding, the nut is cut into two halves.
Now you need to insert the stem and weld both guides to the base.
So, the main parts of the frame are almost ready.
The sides of the plate can be cut to make the structure lighter and smaller.
A clamp is welded on the underside of the base.
The eccentric will be made in two parts. To prevent its working part from wearing out, the master decided to use an outer bearing race. Balls and other details are not required.
Now a hole is drilled in the steel plate of the same thickness as the height of the cage, and an M14 thread is cut in it (as on the grinder's spindle).
Gradually removing unnecessary elements, the master needs to get a nut with an offset from the center of the circle about 2- 3 mm.
The outer diameter of the nut is adjusted so that it fits inside the cage. These parts are tacked together by welding along the perimeter.
A hole must be drilled in the tail of the stem and an M6 thread cut into it. Here the master resorts to a simple technique – he clamps the drill in a vice, and the bar itself rotates with a screwdriver.
A short bolt is screwed into the resulting hole, designed to prevent the swingarm from flying out along with the chisel from the guides. Simply put, its head will be a stopper.
It will also be possible to make several replaceable nozzles, and change them without disassembling the structure.
A short plate is welded approximately in the middle of the stem – it will serve as a stop for the spring, and prevent the stem from rotating in the guides.
A chisel shank must be welded to the second end of the stem.
After that, you can clean, degrease, and paint all the parts.
So, everything is ready, you can assemble the nozzle. The clamping bolt is installed first into the clamp.
A compression spring is put on the stem, it must be selected during testing.
The swingarm is inserted into the guides, and a locking bolt is screwed in.
It remains to put on and fix the nozzle on the grinder.
The last on the spindle is the eccentric nut.
It is important to note that the master uses a grinder with a speed controller . You can also use a conventional grinder by connecting it through an external engine speed controller .
Too high revs are useless here – the pendulum will simply not have time to return to its original position.
To reduce the load on the engine and gearbox of the grinder, several improvements can be made to the design.
First of all, it is worth modifying the eccentric nut, for example, by grinding off the upper surface at a slight angle, or by removing some metal on its wide side. Thus, you can balance the nut, and minimize axial vibrations.
The pendulum (rod) can be made not from a steel bar, but an aluminum thick-walled tube, reducing its weight.
Lugs should be made in the stem shank, and fixed in them < u> needle bearing , which will abut against the eccentric nut. This minimizes friction between parts, and, as a result, unwanted wear and heat.
Alternatively, leave the stem shank unchanged, and replace the eccentric eccentric bearing , but this is already quite expensive.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Electric grinder & mdash; attachment for the grinder with your own hands" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-06/1623703676_spr-250.jpg"/> Thank you author for a simple but useful tool for the workshop!
Have a good mood, good health, and interesting ideas!
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The author's video can be watched here.
Hello, dear readers and DIY!