Hello, dear readers and homemade products!
As you know, when processing parts on a milling machine, a huge amount of dust and sawdust is generated. Without an active dust removal system (or better a central vacuum cleaner), the carpentry workshop quickly becomes like a desert with dunes. But instead of sand – wood dust.
In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “dustin penner” will tell you how to make an additional stop for a milling machine with adjustable gates for efficient operation of the dust extraction system.
This project is very easy to manufacture, and can be easily completed even in a small carpentry workshop.
Materials needed for DIY.
– T-shaped aluminum track < br>– Rip stop (T-track)
– Furniture cut-in nuts, wing-head screws
– Sheet plywood, wood glue, countersunk head wood screws.
Tools used by the author.
– Manual router
– Wood milling cutters
– Wood drills with countersink
– Forstner drills
– Circular saw, saw blades
– F-clamps, chisels
– Precision carpentry ruler
– Industrial vacuum cleaner.
So, sheet plywood with a thickness of 18 mm will serve as the main material for the stop. The master cuts out a set of parts from it on a circular saw. Unfortunately, the exact dimensions of each of them are not given, and this is not required – for each machine, the dimensions must be selected individually.
The main reference point is the height and length of either an existing parallel stop, or you can even start from the length of the milling table (such the same length and should be emphasized).
The design of the stop will be a box with an open top.
In order for the sides and partitions to be reliably glued to the base, the master decided to make a shallow cut in the joints.
By setting the parallel stop at a distance of the plywood thickness from the saw blade, parallel to the long sides of the upper part of the base, cuts are made about 2 mm deep.
The same cuts are made along the narrow sides. Here the author uses an adjustable angle carriage .
When marking grooves for partitions, the author uses an interesting precision carpentry ruler . The marking accuracy with this tool is 0.25 mm.
At first, only two slots are formed.
Using the partitions as a template, the author marks the second edges of the grooves, and forms them in several passes.
Excess material around the perimeter of the base is removed as follows.
Irregularities remaining from the work of the saw blade are leveled with a chisel.
The front of the stop is the same length as the base. In it, you need to make two long slots in the right and left parts. First of all, holes are drilled at the beginning and end of the grooves. They are useful for entering the cutter.
The cutter is inserted into the hole, the parallel stop moves close to the part, and the slots are milled.
Now in the central part of the panel you need to make two slots, which are the edges of the exhaust “window”.
The remaining element is cut off on a milling machine.
The master designed the front panel slightly higher than the height of the existing parallel stop (the same height additional emphasis will be on the back).
To compensate for the height difference between the sides, the author had to cut out trapezoidal partitions (with a bevel at the top).
So, the elements of the box are prepared, and the front panel is glued to the base first.
Then the partitions are installed.
Having glued the back panel in place, the master tightens the structure with clamps in several directions so that all the elements stick together well.
Remains the last two identical parts – movable gates. Their total length coincides with the length of the entire stop. The height of the panels is slightly higher than the height of the facade, it will be clear later.
Blind holes are drilled from the rear side of these attachment elements for mortise furniture nuts. The position of these holes coincides with the slots in the front of the stop.
The upper part of the holes is countersunk so that the nuts fit tightly into place.
It remains to tighten the furniture mortise nuts into place.
The last element of the design is the flange for the vacuum cleaner hose. The front and back edges of this part must be made at a slight slope so that it fits smoothly into place.
In the center of this blank, using a Forstner drill , a hole is made along the diameter of the hose.
Now you can paste this detail into place.
A cutter with a thrust bearing is installed on the router, and the excess part of the base is removed. The dust extraction chamber is ready.
The cover panels are pressed against the façade with a pair of wing-head screws screwed in from the inside of the box. So they will in no way interfere with work, or cling.
Each of the panels can be shifted to the side by a few centimeters, adjusting the gap of the window to the working diameter of the cutter used.
As you can see, the height of the panels is made a little higher so that you can set flush with them < u> T-shaped aluminum rail .
Before screwing in the mounting screws, you need to make pilot holes.
So, the device is ready, and the easiest way to attach it to the parallel stop is with pairs of clamps.
Now you need to adjust the gap between the shutters, and fix their position with screws.
Everything is ready, you can turn on the industrial vacuum cleaner , or another removal system.
As a result, the gap can be adjusted for each cutter individually.
The last element, for which the T-track was installed, will be this hinged side stopper .
I thank the author for the simple design of the stop for a milling machine with a dust removal system.
Good mood, good health, and interesting ideas to everyone!
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Author's video can be viewed ь here.
Hello, dear readers and homemade products!