Greetings to all lovers of homemade products and those who just looked at the site in search of interesting ideas. If you have a jigsaw in your toolbox, then this article will definitely come in handy for you. Below in the article I will tell you how the author of the GreenSaw YouTube channel made a platform with a clamping rail for his power tool. With this simple refinement, you can cut parts not only at right angles, but also at various other angles. Some of you may say why reinvent the wheel, marked the workpiece as it should, clamped it with a clamp on a workbench or any other convenient surface and cut it yourself. Yes, but if we need to cut one workpiece, and if there are several of them, and even the angle is not standard, then it will be more convenient to use this device. In general, decide for yourself, and I proceed to describe the process. If you are interested in the idea, but you are too lazy to read the article, go downstairs, there is a video of the author, having watched it, you will understand everything.
* a piece of chipboard (most likely a part of the cabinet door),
* laminate strip,
* two small aluminum tubes,
* two hidden furniture nuts and bolts for them,
* a bar with a section of about 40×40 mm,
* bolts, washers and nuts,
* self-tapping screws,
* super glue.
Tools:* hand-held circular saw,
* grinding machine,
* drilling machine,
* marking tool.
In the beginning, the author made the details of the base. From a piece of chipboard, he cut off a countertop measuring 55x30x2 cm (length, width, thickness). Then he sawed off from the remaining piece two legs measuring 30×8.5×2 cm (length, width, thickness).
Step 2 .
Next, from a 10 mm thick laminate plank, the author cut a workpiece 55 cm long. From this workpiece, placing an emphasis on the width of the jigsaw sole on a circular saw, sawed off the base of the clamping guide bar, its width is 7 cm. From the rest a piece of laminate cut off two more strips 2 cm wide, these are the sides.
From the prepared (from laminate) parts, the author assembled a clamp-guide. I glued narrow ones to the wide strip along the long edges, then fixed them with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes for them. I installed a jigsaw in the resulting guide and checked its movement. The tool moves freely.
At this stage, he cut two blanks from an aluminum tube with a diameter of 10 mm (inner diameter 8 mm). I drilled holes under them in the guide. In the holes of the tubes, the author fixed it with super glue. Through these holes with tubes, the guide will be bolted to the base.
At the same distance as in the guide, from drilled holes from the ends of the base. The holes are located at a distance of 3 cm from the long edge. The author marked them through the tubes in the guides, and then drilled them on a drilling machine. Diameter of each 12 mm
From a bar of 40×40 mm I cut two cubes about 3-4 cm high.At the ends of each I made markings and drilled blind holes with a diameter of 7 mm and a depth of 2.5 cm in the center.Then I glued threaded rods into these holes (bolts with cut heads). < br>
What happened in the end, the author inserted into the bar, on the other side strung washers on the threaded part and applied a marker with a marker, as shown in the photo.
In the area of marks in each stud, he drilled a hole with a diameter of 3 mm.
Then I again installed the bolts with wooden caps in the bar and inserted the cotter pins into the holes from the back side.
At this stage, the author attached the legs to the base. To do this, he used self-tapping screws and kerchiefs, which he cut in from the scraps of the board. Having assembled the device completely, I again checked the jigsaw's movement along the guide. After that, at the starting point of the guide, I put a mark opposite the canvas. Then I drilled a hole with a diameter of 10 mm along it.
Then I put the jigsaw back on the guide. I turned it on and made a cut from the hole.
Then he made the markings on the base, fixed the bar, and perpendicular to it screwed a bar with a section of 20×20 mm 17 cm long with self-tapping screws. This is a fixed stop for workpieces. In the bar at the edge of the cut, I drilled several holes, through which the lines drawn on the cut blanks will be visible (this will be seen in the video during test manipulations).
And so, the device is ready, you can perform the first test trim … To do this, take a suitable workpiece, mark it with a thickness gauge and lay it on the base, bring the line under the bar, align it with the cut through the holes. Clamps the bar and cuts off excess.
Next, the author, using a protractor, applies lines to the base at the angles he needs. I also made another additional stop bar, which is fixed on the base of the carpentry self-clamping clamp. To prevent this plank from getting lost, the author has provided for it to be fastened on one of the base legs.
In the photo below, the author demonstrates how he uses the plank when cutting blanks.
In the photo below, the author demonstrates the accuracy of cutting blanks.
Next, we see how the author can easily cut metal blanks, a piece of tin and a strip. Just do not forget to change canvases for wood for canvases for metal.
That's all, below, as promised by the author's video.