Arrogant repairmen are a great evil.
Girl Svetochka brought the device to show with the question “will we take it for repair?” … The client decided to fix the lens defect on his own and resolutely began to screw it back in.
Hocus pocus failed. I have not yet had to fix such a defect. It's easier of course to completely change the lens.
I am opening our warehouse on the pc, there is no such spare part. Of course there is a lot, I can't keep a bunch of spare parts on my balance sheet, money doesn't work, you know. I order only at a minimum and the most popular ones, which will go away in a month or two.
So what is there in the canon-Moscow.
Yes, the price is twice as high as on alishka + shipping. Delivery 3-5 days.
I search for “repair parts for Canon PowerShot S80” and what is there see .
Zoom lens for Canon for digital camera PowerShot S80 spare part silver + CCD
Also with a matrix, this is good, so everything is set up.
On Ali it is cheaper than 20 days.
Client not I agree to the options we proposed.
For a long time.
Well, if it is urgent …. I call the price fork, from and to, the time frame is two days. Restoration of the lens.
After running and consulting, the price and terms have been agreed.
Out of habit I will look at the characteristics of the device on the Internet.
Pretty nice design of a rectangular “brick”.
I have everything looks much worse.
Sensor: 1/1.8 ″ CCD, 8.3 million pixels
Recording formats: Photo JPEG (Exif 2.2) 3264 × 2448, 2592 × 1944, 2048 × 1536, 1600 × 1200, 640 × 480, AVI video 1024 × 768 15 fps, 640 × 480 30/15 fps, 320 × 240 30/15 fps, 160 × 120 15 fps.
Lens: 5.8-20.7 mm ( eq. 28-100 mm), f/2.8-f/5.3, eight elements in seven groups (two aspherical elements, one UА-element).
Focus: TTL, 9-point intelligent AiAF, 1-point AF (random selection), manual, AF-assist beam, AF bracketing auto, 4cm MDF.
Exposure metering: evaluative, center-weighted, spot (by focus area ).
Exposure modes: P/Tv/Av/M, compensation ± 2 EV, auto bracket.
Sensitivity eq. ISO: 50, 100, 200, 400.
Shutter speeds: 15-1/2000 sec.
Viewfinder/display: optical/LCD 2.5 ″ TFT 115000 pixels
Flash: Auto, On/Off, Slow sync, Red-eye reduction, Flash compensation, Exposure start/stop sync, 55cm – 4.2/2.0m (W/T) (ISO Auto »).
Programs: portrait, landscape, night scene, foliage, snow, beach, fireworks, underwater photography, indoor photography, children and animals, night photo, digital macro
Image settings: My Colors function, live color, neutral, de-sharpening, sepia, black-and-white, contrast, sharpness, saturation.
Frame modes: single frame, continuous 1.8 fps, self-timer (2/10 s, customizable), “intervalometer” up to 100 shots in steps of 1-60 min.
Interface: USB 2.0, PictBridge, A/V.
Removable memory: SD/MMC.
Power supply: Li-Ion NB-2LH/NB-2L, approximately 200 shots.
Size/weight: 104 , 0 × 57.0 × 38.8 mm/225 g.
Promotional Description for Buyers.
The camera is equipped with a 3.6x zoom lens (28-100 mm in terms of narrow film format, f/2.8 – f/5.3).
The manufacturer says it uses UA-elements (Ultra High Refractive Index Aspherical) to make the wide-angle lens compact. The camera has become more elegant and compact.
All controls are located on the rear and right side (photographer's side) panels.
Rear panel. At the top left is a “Print/Share” button to control the transfer of data, it is also a configurable “access” button for shooting settings. Next to it is the “timer/sound commentary” button. Buttons for selecting the focus area/delete, exposure compensation, display modes, calling the menu and calling up the shooting settings menu “Func Set” are located “around” the settings dial.
The settings dial itself has two “degrees of freedom” – pressing and rotating. By pressing, you can “call up” a submenu for selecting ISO, flash modes, macro, transition to manual focus (autofocus when switching to manual focus is retained).
This design solution makes control very convenient and comfortable shooting.
The optical viewfinder is not above the lens, some parallax is possible when shooting at close range.
Moving the operating mode dial to the side panel also increases the comfort of control, and most importantly, the efficiency of changing modes. Previously, to adjust, you had to turn the camera with the top panel towards you, now there is no such need due to the indication of modes on the display – a “virtual disk”
I even found user manual .
Tweezers, straight and curved, screwdriver. Air pump (enema), discharger and breaker.
And so- the same brush attracts dust particles.
Client did not bring battery.
For this case, there is an absolutely wonderful jar.
Ate you need to see the voltage consumed by the camera I made several adapters to connect the device to the power supply.
Here, for example, a pair of “batteries”.
Or else made from old batteries. I do it as needed for different sizes.
The main thing is not to mix up the supplied voltage
Unfortunately there are no pictures of removing the body from this camera.
Let's consider on the example of a different body color.
I unscrew the bolts of the body panels in the area of the tripod mount.
Then right and left.
You have to separate the front and back panels with both hands and you can carefully tear off the black metal frame between the panels.
I shoot front panel. Metallic however.
The screw is in the area of the connectors and the back part is released
Can be removed and frame.
I am examining the device carefully for any damage. Everything is normal, except for the lens, of course.
Be careful, the flash board is located at the top. I discharge it, poke it with needles directly into the wires.
Wire soldering is painted with sealant.
Before that, I had an irritant from a relay with resistors. When stuck, there was a sound “drrrrrr” and the LED turned on. At one of the trainings, the Japanese “teacher” became very interested in the construction. We exchanged instruments with him, he had a relay with sound, he gave me a light bulb with needles.
I unscrew the mounting screws flash lamp unit.
I shoot everything together, it makes no sense to unsolder the power supply reasons. I had an engineer who loved to discharge capacitors with tweezers. We work, we strain “silence in the studio” and suddenly BOOM !!! everyone bounces. They say different words from the great and the mighty. All the tweezers were riddled with discharges. Especially banging from the discharge of the capacitor in the hinged flash, it is very powerful there. They could not wean the “funny guy”.
I continue to unscrew the four bolts in the area of the tripod mount. Here they are in metal, the thread is metric.
I shoot the control sector top right.
I separate the elements from the internal metal chassis, open the cable clamps.
Viewfinder with a couple internal lenses.
Lens extension motor.
The lens needs to be freed from an iron cage. I proceed carefully, it is all hung with trains.
I warm up the adhesive tape with hot air from the hair dryer and remove the blotches. It is imperative to heat it so that the glue softens, otherwise you can break the train.
Five bolts for fastening the back cover with a matrix.
Carefully remove the optocouplers controlling the operation of the lens extension motor. Luckily in this design they are not glued, otherwise they would have to be unsoldered from the loop.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Rolled lens repair for Canon PowerShot S80" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-07/1626324686_dscn3147.jpg"/> And also the focus sensor. By the way, it works only at a distance of up to 5 meters. Further says “infinity” ……..
This optocoupler had to be unsoldered from the loop, it was not possible to remove it mechanically. No need to take risks, you can break the train.
Block cover latch lens extension reducer.
I remove the gears and carefully examine the teeth under a microscope.
A couple of gears out.
Climb into my a wonderful box, there may be a replacement.
Everything is fine, a replacement was found.
Now the most interesting thing is to disassemble the rotated barrel of the lens and manage not to tear anything. I'm talking about the trains.
I'm starting to move the barrels by micron.
Plastic has of course some opportunity to deform and slip, but not indefinitely. You need to catch the moment when you no longer need to strain the structure. And hear “crunch” instead of “click”.
The first one was removed no damage.
The internal unit is stuck, I can not turn and pull it out. Something broke off and holds.
I finally pulled it out, but .. but .. but three pins broke off. These parts are not removable, they are molded together with the barrel. I have a problem.
I remove the next part, it is made of metal, the vertical guides bent from the efforts of the grief of the remonters. With this option, everything is simple, I straighten it with my hands, use a square to check the “verticality”.
It is necessary to disassemble further. I keep the situation with broken pins in mind. Assessing further damage is a more significant task. I'm already promoting other pins.
Sorted it out without problems following construction.
Intermediate separator int.
The lens block fell off, also without damage.
Some more pins and finally completely disassembled the lens. Lucky, no more damage.
Solving the problem of broken pins on the block.
Unfortunately there is no manufacturing process in the photo. I will try to describe in words. I take a workpiece from an LS59 bronze rod of a suitable diameter, clamp it to a minimum. With the help of a file I give the desired shape, cut to size.
Then I drill into the block with a micron less drill and glue it onto cyacrine. I warm it very carefully with a soldering iron and the glue fuses with the plastic. The loads in this place are minimal, it won't break.
I assemble the lens and start to drive it with the motor. It works, I'll work for another ten minutes, let it work in.
Putting it halfway down the camera can be checked without completely twisting it into a heap.
Autofocus does not work, blinnnn. Damaged drive or ribbon cable? Let's see.
Disassemble, remove the lens. Back cover. It's simple, the optocoupler of the autofocus drive parking has shifted. I missed it.
I set it in the desired position.
I collect the sufferer by half, I plug the adapter into the battery compartment, and I start to run through the tests. Everything works, I collect it completely. And one more test on tests.
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Arrogant repairmen are a great evil.