Good day, everyone!
I will continue the creative project of the “Second Life” series of old things.
In this article I will tell you how I accidentally “attached” an old engine from a sewing machine.
Let's start with the fact that on the occasion of the implementation of my project ( “Table from a bed from a sewing machine” see my profile), I bought this very frame, and with it, in addition, I got a production sewing machine and an electric motor.
At first, I had no desire to use this good, especially for its intended purpose. I placed the “product” on “Avito”, in the section “I will give it for free,” but alas, and maybe for the better, no one needed the “sewing machine”. I tried to start the engine – it turned out to be working, and it keeps the speed well, the flywheel with a pulley – a friction clutch, were still in place.
I thought so:” Such a cow, you need it yourself “and removed the ad from publication. Emery engine, machine – 16 kg of scrap metal.
So, I already have a home-made “dinosaur”, it was assembled at the beginning of the “zero years”, well, how it was assembled – a nozzle for a circle was machined, put on a shaft and fixed through bolts for a keyway. Sharpening – sharpens, but the engine speed is too low, a very emery wheel crumbles. It is launched “from a pusher”, heavy as an “elephant” (the nameplate says 25.3 kg + a circle with a nozzle), and therefore stands “normally” in the workshop.
And the” new “engine is lighter (weighed = 10.3 kg) and resourceful, it will be a “mobile” emery. The power and revolutions are quite enough for the MCP in the farm, the emery wheel will work as a flywheel.
So, in a nutshell, I described my “prey”, but let's deal with the “patient.”
Materials and tools: < br> Materials:
1. Furniture bolts М8 + washers, grovers, cap nuts
2. Mounting screw M5 * 10 mm.
3. Capacitor, 10 μF, 450 V.
4. Emery wheel, with a fit of 32 mm.
5. Spool caps for chamber pumping.
6. Shaft attachment for emery wheel.
7. Installation wires.
8. Junction box.
9. Toggle switch 220 V.
10. Steel plate (I have unknown origin).
11. Enamel – primer for rust (black).
12. Electric motor.
1. Electric engraver with attachments.
2. Drill (boring machine).
4. Petal circle + cup with metal pile Ф 100.
5. Cutting and grinding wheels.
7. Hex key 2.5 mm.
10. Screwdriver + -.
13. Drill, Ф3, Ф10, Ф12mm.
STEP 1 Disassembly.
Unscrew the nut by 19 mm, and remove the flywheel with a key. I unscrew the clutch lever and remove the drive pulley.
STEP 2 Blanks.
Since the next operation required a “turner”, I took the engine to the workshops of my own “Radio – mechanical technical school”, in which I studied at one time, and the teachers – masters have remained there to this day. We picked up a nozzle on an emery wheel with a fit of 32 mm (they were sharpened then in the 90s for sale, and shafts with bearings were also in vogue, for jointing machines, they earned as best they could) and bored out a seat on the engine shaft in it. Threaded hole on the side, for the mounting screw already existed.
I got a “legacy”, a metal plate, milled from all sides (even – like a leg for milling), it is not known what kind of equipment. Duck, here it is, just came under the foundation of the future “sharpener”. The plate was marked, drilled, sanded, degreased and painted.
STEP 3 Bring beauty.
The engine was polished using a grinder with a nozzle, a cup with metal pile Ø 100 mm. I described the disadvantages of working with this nozzle in the section “Grinding” in the material (” Machine Bed Table “see my profile). It turned out gorgeous, I did not even expect such a result. It turned out that everything was made of “duralumin”. Before sanding, I was wondering what color to paint the engine, but now I will not paint – and so it turned out “Silver handsome”.
STEP 4 Nozzle for the emery wheel.
Through the threaded hole of the nozzle, I made a mark on the motor shaft, for grooving, under the taper of the set screw.
Using an electric engraver with replaceable nozzles, I grind a “tapered” groove in the shaft, according to the marking, 3 mm deep.
STEP 5 Assembly.
Opened the protective flange of the bearing, for the presence of grease – we will consider it well.
I figured out in advance how the engine would stand, and attached the bolts. From a piece of rubber from a car camera, I cut out a washer – a boot with a small gap, but with an outer diameter (to rotate), to protect the front bearing from abrasive dust (how much will help). The rubber goods will be pushed along the shaft closer to the body.
Using a mounting screw, I fixed the nozzle to the groove on the motor shaft.
I finally screw the base plate to the engine with bolts and nuts. I installed an additional mount and pressed the capacitor with it.
STEP 6 Electrical and electrical insulation.
The value of the capacitance of the capacitor is 10 uF, the “practitioners” suggested, because before that, the calculation of the capacitance of the 40 uF capacitor was done online calculator 1 .
Test run after 40 uF showed that the engine does not work adequately with shaking, but just works smoothly on two windings “from the pusher”, only the money was wasted, believing the site.
Calculator 2 With the same parameters, completely different results.
“Spat” on the calculators and turned to “specialists” – 10 uF and the engine starts up, works smoothly, that's how it is.
The case, under the junction box, took from a burnt-out LED floodlight.
At the base of the box I marked out, drilled holes Ф3 mm, broke off the partitions and, using an electric engraver with a nozzle, “brought” to the desired size, the landing hole on the engine block.
I opened my “Gold reserve”, it is necessary to find something dielectric to fix the base of the box (it could have been metal, but the supply buses and terminals are very close). There were found suitable brackets (I don't remember from what), from which the “ears” were sawed off and rounded to fit.
I pulled the base of the box to the engine block with the “ears”, using screws suitable in length, along the standard threaded holes. The upper “ear” had to be tilted because rested against the lid. I drilled a hole in the lid for a toggle switch.
The wires were separated according to the electric motor connection diagram.
On the base, like “legs”, glued furniture felt self-adhesive pads.
Caps from the valve for tire inflation are amazingly fitted on the free terminals of the capacitor, silicone caps are put on the working terminals.
By the way, in the background, in the photo, are spare parts from the radio, waiting for their turn. This is another project from the “Second Life of Old Things” series – there will be “Retro Radio”.
STEP 7 Pleasant sensations.
We plug it in, click the toggle switch, the motor hums, the emery wheel rotates in the right direction, counterclockwise (when viewed from the side of the circle), so that the fixing nut does not unscrew. We try to sharpen a drill – sharpen, a knife – sharpen, a piece of iron – sharpen, but more is not needed. Beauty!