Do-it-yourself piano/synthesizer stand.
An electronic piano was purchased for music lessons. Having no experience, we bought a cross stand for it (a similar stand is shown in the photo below).
The stand seems to be functional (adjustable height, folding), but flimsy – during the game (pressing the keys) oscillations occur. And simply – the piano is wobbling, it is not convenient, and not comfortable.
At the family council, the requirements were outlined: strong, stable, not bulky, mobile if possible, and even with a shelf for equipment.
They searched the Internet: branded stands disappeared right away – the price WOH !!! Those that are simpler are either flimsy, not stable (at least in appearance), or the price at the synthesizer level (substantial).
Based on the information received from the Internet, I tried to sketch my version of the stand from the available materials, without bells and whistles and problems, with a minimum of work. The following sketch turned out:
The depth of the stand was chosen by itself – in chain hardware stores, laminated chipboard of different colors of standard typical sizes is always available. In this case, the width of the canvas was 300 mm. In principle, ready-made furniture panels with suitable dimensions and glued edges in widths of 200, 300, 400 and 600 mm can be selected.
Precision in this design is not required – the main thing is that the dimensions of the elements are consistent – the same must be the same.
Materials and tools:
And so, we need the following materials:
– Chipboard – for the lid, back wall and side racks – white color (I used a panel measuring 2000x300x16 mm), edge on the long sides – 2 pcs .;
– white end tape with an adhesive base;
– furniture corner ( 8 pcs.);
– furniture screw with M6 nut (8 pcs.);
– wooden beam 30x40x1300 mm – 2 pcs.;
– wooden beam 30x40x500 mm – 2 pcs.;
– white paint (for wood and metal);
– self-tapping screws 4.2×75 mm for wood (8 pcs.) for legs;
– self-tapping screws 4.2×55 mm for wood (8-10 pcs.) for fastening stiffeners; < br>– laminated chipboard – white color – size 600x300x16 mm – for a folding shelf (optional);
– folding bracket (shelf holder) – 2 pcs. (optional);
– M4x20 mm bolt with nut – 4-6 pcs. – by the number of holes in the bracket mounting (optional);
– self-tapping screws 3.5×11 (or 16) mm for wood (4 pcs.) For attaching the bracket to the shelf (optional);
– furniture swivel wheel with a brake (4 pcs.) – optional.
The design was decided for reliability to be fastened to the corners, they are screwed to the chipboard with screws through and through.
– drill for wood 6-8 mm;
– key for nuts M6 and M4;
– construction knife ( shoemaker);
– medium-grain sandpaper;
– simple pencil;
– saw or jigsaw for wood;
– flat rasp;
– iron – preferably old;
The stand consists of the following elements:
– top cover (the length of the cover should be equal to the width of the tool – in my case it is 1300 mm. The width of the cover and other panels I chose for the tool – 300 mm) – 1 pc .;
– back wall ( equal in size to the lid) – 1 pc .;
– side racks (the height is determined based on the convenience of the musician's landing, in my case it is 620 mm) – 2 pcs .;
– legs (bars measuring 30x40x500 mm) – 2 pcs .;
– stiffening rib (bar 30x40x1300 mm – the length must be equal to the length of the lid) – 2 pcs .;
– shelf (optional) 300 х 600 mm – 1 PC. The size was chosen based on the size of the equipment that will be located on it.
The stand is crafted as follows:
– chipboard is cut (top cover, back panel, side posts, shelf (optional));
– end tape is glued to the ends where there is no edge;
– legs and stiffeners are sawn off and processed;
– legs, stiffeners, corners and heads of screws are painted;
– required holes are marked and drilled;
– everything is assembled.
So, go ahead!
Step one: cutting and processing of chipboard
If it was not possible to find the chipboard panels of the required size, then we take the chipboard of the available size and cut off all unnecessary ones.
Cutting must be ensured so that the edge does not crumble and there were no chips.
Next, it was necessary to glue the end tape on the ends (without the edge).
The process is not complicated, but painstaking and consists of the following operations:
– cut the tape by 5-10 mm longer than the end on which the tape should be glued;
– iron it out the tape along the end, having previously centered it;
– we cut off the overhanging parts of the tape with a boot (construction) knife;
– we grind the corners with sandpaper. You can use a small device – a bar holder. So it is more convenient to work and the quality of grinding is obtained.
The rest of the laminated chipboard elements are glued and processed in the same way.
As a result of this step, the following set of elements should be obtained:
– side wall – 2 pcs .;
– cover – 1 pc .;
– back wall – 1 pc.
The holes in the rear wall and lid are drilled symmetrically (left and right) to fit the available corners. The corners should be 20 mm away from the long sides.
The holes in the side walls are drilled by aligning the walls, i.e. in two elements at once. To prevent the walls from shifting during drilling, it is necessary to fasten them with clamps. In this case, only one wall is marked.
After drilling, all holes on both sides are countersinked so that the chipboard does not crumble or chip.
Step two: making legs
To increase the stability of the stand (tilt back and forth), legs are installed at the bottom of the side posts. For this, 2 pieces of 500 mm long are sawn off. With a rasp, the edges of the legs are rounded from above or the upper corner is cut. Cuts and rounds are processed with sandpaper.
Finished legs are painted in several layers. The painting procedure is usually described in the paint instructions. I painted 3 times so that the paint does not shine through.
After painting, chamfered holes are drilled in the legs evenly along the axial line from the bottom side for self-tapping screws. The distance of the extreme holes from the edge of the leg is 150 mm.
If the legs will not be attached to the swivel wheels, then to prevent slipping on the floor, you need to
glue felt heels (or similar material) along the edges of the legs from below.
Next, you need to go through the holes in the legs mark holes from the bottom end of the side walls and drill holes with a diameter of 2-3 mm and a depth of 30-40 mm.
The legs are screwed to the side posts from below with 4.2×75 mm self-tapping screws.
Step three: making and installing stiffeners
To enhance the deflection strength of the structure, it is necessary to prepare and install stiffeners on the cover and back wall. I used planed timber 30 x 40 mm.
The stiffener is the same size (length) as the top cover (back wall).
The planed timber of the required size is cut off (in my case – 1300 mm), the places of the cut and the edge are sanded. It is painted with white paint in several layers by analogy with the painting of the legs.
After painting, the 30 mm side stiffeners are screwed to the top cover and the rear wall of the stand with 4.2×55 mm self-tapping screws. Previously, in the lid and back wall, you need to mark and drill holes for self-tapping screws, evenly distributing them along the length of the bar. The beam should retreat from the near long edge of the chipboard by 20 mm. In the bar, you also need to make counter holes with a 3 mm drill to a depth of 25 mm, so that the self-tapping screws do not split the bar. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the chipboard side. The caps of the self-tapping screws can be painted over with white paint or covered with furniture plugs. I left it as it is.
Step four: painting furniture corners and screws
To avoid conspicuousness, furniture corners and screws should also be painted white (if desired). I painted the corners completely. For screws, I painted only the cap. Coloring is also carried out in 2-3 layers. The metal should be pre-degreased – in general, proceed in accordance with the instructions for the paint. I painted with a piece of foam rubber, because there were traces of the brush.
Step five: assembling the stand
The stand is assembled in the following order:
– the corners from the inside are fastened with screws to the rear wall and the cover;
– one of the side walls is attached to the rear wall (with a stiffener inward), screws and nuts are tightened.
– the second side wall is screwed to the back wall.
– the cover is installed on top (with a stiffener down and to the back wall).
Since the corners are open on one side, I first insert the screws, latch on the nuts, and then put the lid on top with the “horns” of the corners.
After assembling all 4 elements of laminated chipboard, all nuts are tightened with a wrench.
The shelf is almost ready!
options: folding shelf and castors.
Step Seven: Assembling and Installing a Folding Shelf (optional)
The folding shelf is specially made so that additional equipment can be installed in front of the piano: a sound card, laptop, web-camera, etc.
Chipboard for the shelf has a size of 600 x 300. The shelf is cut and processed similarly to the side posts.
The folding bracket is attached to the shelf with 3.5×11 mm screws (you can try 16 mm – the main thing is that the thickness of the bracket is sufficient and the self-tapping screw does not pass through the shelf).
For fastening with self-tapping screws, you first need to mark the places of the holes, with a screwdriver with a 2 mm drill, drill a hole to a depth of 10 mm. A self-tapping screw is screwed into this hole.
The marking of holes and the installation of the bracket depend on its design. Before marking out, try on the shelf and bracket against the back of the stand.
The holes for the bracket in the rear wall are marked by trying on the shelf and marking with a pencil the places for the holes. The shelf should be centered on the back wall. The height of the shelf attachment is selected at your discretion, but when folded (the shelf is lowered down) it should not rest against the floor.
The holes in the rear wall are drilled with a 6 mm drill.
Next, the bracket is fastened to the rear wall with screws and M4 nuts. If the nuts are small, you can add washers so that the nuts do not cut into the chipboard.
In the photo, to the right and left of the brackets, you can see the black caps of the self-tapping screws that hold the stiffener.
Step eight: installing swivel castors with brakes (optional)
To ensure the movement of the piano around the room (the stand and the piano are quite heavy and bulky for the musician), it was necessary to attach wheels to the stand. And so that when playing the piano does not “leave”, the wheels must have a brake.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Homemade stand for electronic piano/synthesizer" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-07/1627645684_foto_26.jpg"/> Wheel mounts are screwed on with self-tapping screws 3.5 x 20 mm symmetrically as close to the ends of the legs as possible (instead of felt heels).
When moving the stand, the brake lever on the wheels must be squeezed out, and after installation in the right place, the wheel levers must be pressed.
Now – that's it for sure!
That's it, the stand is assembled!
The cost of creating a homemade stand turned out to be significantly lower than buying a finished product. In addition, the wishes of the home musician were taken into account.
Additional elements can be installed inside the stand: for example, a holder (hook) for headphones, cords, pedals, etc.
If the electronic piano has holes for attaching to the stand , you can mark and drill holes on the top cover (such holes are visible in the photo above), select the screws of the required size (if they are not included in the piano kit) and screw the piano to the stand.
Attention! If the wheels are being installed, then at the initial stage it is necessary to take into account the height of the wheels when determining the height of the side struts.
For other sizes of the electronic piano or synthesizer, the width of the cover (and, accordingly, the back wall and stiffeners) changes.