For those who could not complete the quest “ Homemade electronic piano/synthesizer stand ” homemade simpler!
PC system unit usually stands in a special niche of a computer desk.
And if the table is ordinary ? Without a compartment for the system unit? For example, this:
There is no special compartment – we put it on the floor.
But this is inconvenient: dust collects under the system unit and it is not easy to move it (especially considering the connected wires).
Exit: put the system unit on a mobile stand.
Such a stand is not easy to make, but very easy!
Materials and tools:
So, we need the following materials:
– Chipboard – any color, but preferably the same color table or adjacent furniture;
– swivel furniture wheels – 4 things. I used the ones in the photo below:
– furniture screws 3.5×16 mm – 16 pcs .;
– end tape with an adhesive base in the color of chipboard;
– self-tapping screws 4×30 (you can also 40-45) mm for wood (5 pcs.);
– tape measure;
– screwdriver with a bit/screwdriver for self-tapping screws;
– drill for wood 4 mm; < br>– drill for wood 2 mm;
– sandpaper of medium grain size;
– shoe or construction knife for cutting off the edge of the end tape;
– simple pencil;
– saw or jigsaw for wood, and even better – circular saw;
– iron – preferably old – for gluing the end tape.
Description of manufacture
The stand is a chipboard base with stops on the back and on the right (or on the left – depending on which side of the system unit is located).
The workpieces of the stand elements are cut to size, marking, drilling and assembly.
For mobility, the base is installed on furniture wheels.
So, go ahead!
Step one: cutting and processing the base and restraints
The first step is to take a measure from the system unit. Measuring the width
and the depth of the system unit (the front wall of the block can be ignored – especially when the front panel is opening).
I got the following dimensions (the sketch shows the location of the long limiter on the right – for the left location the picture will be symmetrical):
– we take the chipboard, apply the markup: draw a rectangle with the dimensions of the sides equal to the removed dimensions of the base of the system unit (in my case – 460 x 200 mm);
– we cut off the excess – we get the base of the stand;
– with the help of an iron we glue the end tape (where there is no edge);
– with a construction (boot) knife we cut off and sand the edges of the tape at the ends with sandpaper.
Hidden ends do not need to be pasted over – just sand the corners so that the chipboard does not chip along the edge.
The base of the stand is ready.
The limiters are marked as follows:
– the length of the side limiter is equal to the long side of the base of the stand, the width (height) of the limiter is 40 mm (in my case, the size of the side limiter is 460 x 40 mm);
– the length of the rear limiter is equal to the short side of the base of the stand + 16 mm (the thickness of the chipboard of the side limiter), and the width (height) is also 40 mm (in my case, the size was 216 x 40 mm).
Sawing off the limiters. Similarly to the base, we glue the end tape on the ends without edges, process them.
As a result, we get 3 elements: < br> – base;
– rear stopper;
– side stopper.
Step two: marking and drilling holes
The stoppers are tried on to the base so that the upper part of the stoppers protrudes above the base, and the bottom – was flush with the bottom of the base. The photo shows a bottom view of the base.
3 holes (one in the center and one on the right/left with an indent from the edges of 40-50 mm) for fastening to the end of the base. The centers of the holes recede from the bottom of the limiter by 8 mm (half the thickness of the chipboard – so that the mating holes in the end of the base are exactly in the middle of the end).
The centers of the holes in the short limiter are also removed from the bottom by 8 mm, and the indent on the right/left is 30-40 mm each.
Next, you need to drill the marked holes with a 4 mm drill. After drilling, the holes are countersunk so that the chipboard does not crumble or chip off, and the screws do not protrude.
The holes for the self-tapping screws at the ends of the base are marked and drilled as follows: limiters are applied and through their holes the markings are made at the ends. If everything is done correctly, then the mark should be strictly in the middle of the end (in the photo – at the same distance from the upper and lower edges).
Then, with a 2 mm drill to a depth of 10 mm, holes are drilled in the end of the base.
Attention! If you tighten the screws without pre-drilling the ends, the chipboard can crack.
Step three: assembly coasters
Self-tapping screws 4×30 mm are used to fix the limiters: first, a long limiter is screwed to the base, then a short one.
The stand is assembled – it remains to make it mobile.
Step four: marking and fastening swivel feet
To mark the fastening of furniture swivel legs, it is necessary to place the legs themselves on the lower side of the base at an equal distance (10-15 mm) from the edges (taking into account the thickness of the stoppers) and mark the holes with a pencil according to their location on the fasteners of the legs.
Holes are made with a drill with a diameter of 2 mm to a depth of no more than 10 mm.
Then the legs are screwed to the base with screws 3.5×16 mm in accordance with the markings.
The stand is ready – you can put the system unit on it and move it, if necessary, in any direction (within reasonable limits, of course).
The dimensions of the stand may be slightly larger or smaller than the base of the system unit – it's okay, the main thing is that the dimensions of the stand elements are consistent with each other.
The height of the stops can also be more than 40 mm, the main thing is that the stops did not cover the ventilation holes and provided access to the connectors of the system unit from the back.
You can also fix the restraints in other ways, for example, with furniture screws, it will be more correct, but in this case there will simply be a little more work.
Self-tapping caps can be either tint in the color of chipboard, or cover with plastic furniture plugs.
You can also pick up any legs, the main thing is that they are rotatable and ensure the stability of the stand with the system unit.
Good luck in repeating this homemade product!
Please in the comments de pour photos of the coasters made or your own options and suggestions.