Greetings to all lovers of homemade products and those who just looked at the site in search of interesting ideas that you can take note of. Once I already told you how to make a bearing puller, but it was not really a puller, but rather a device for extracting bearings. In continuation of the topic, I want to present you with a version of a stripper, there are probably quite a few of these on the U Homemade website, and yet they are all different, and each master chooses for himself. For the manufacture of this tool, the author used his own drum brake pads. The design is not difficult to manufacture, that's why I think someone will like it. In general, if you are interested in the idea, you are welcome, read it, watch (the video, as usual at the end), share our opinions in the comments and use it (if you liked it, of course).
< br> * two brake pads,
* a pair of bolts with nuts M10 or M12,
* a pair of threaded rods, one larger than M12-14, the other slightly smaller (M6 is fine),
* paint for metal in cans,
* elongated nut for a large stud.
* screwdriver or drill,
* welding machine,
* gas torch,
First of all, the author prepares the pads. Namely, it removes the coating (overlays). At first he tries to do it with a hammer and a tube with a beveled end, but it doesn't work out very well. Then the author tries to do the same, but holding the block in a vice, here things went much faster. Having removed the pads, the author refines the surface of each shoe with a grinder.
Next, the author brings the pads together and places marks with a marker. Where there will be a capture, he draws the lines along which you need to cut off the excess. From the top he marks points for holes through which the pads will be connected in the future.
< img class = "aligncenter" alt = "Brake pad remover" src = "https://usamodelkina.ru/uploads/posts/2021-08/1629231862_9.jpg"/>
Next, the author takes an elongated nut and a hairpin, and you also need two more ordinary nuts for bolts that are screwed into the pads. The author welds one of the usual nuts to the elongated edge. Then the elongated nut is screwed onto the stud and the second regular nut is welded to it opposite the first. All seams are processed on a grinder.
At this stage, the author assembles the prepared parts as shown in the photo (on the nut on the hairpin fixes the pads with bolts). Then he unscrews the stud a little and welds a bolt to its end. It uses a regular old bolt, it is not necessary to select something here, because it is just a handle for convenient rotation of the stud when working with a puller.
Next, the author unscrews the hairpin and sharpens its free end. To make it durable and last longer. The author makes a hardening. First he heats it up with a gas burner until it turns red, then plunges it into oil.
At this stage, the author puts everything together again. The puller is almost ready. The author decides to further correct the grips (the lower part of the pads). Marks lines with a marker and cuts off excess as shown in the photo.
At the final stage, the author complements the almost finished tool with one important detail – a transverse pin for adjusting the clamping of the jaws. To do this, on the outside of the grips (now they can be called that), at one level, the author places marks with a marker and drills holes for a smaller hairpin along them. A pin is threaded into the holes, cut to the desired length and baited on both sides of the nut. Now the tool is ready.
At the final stage, the author paints all the elements of the puller, after which he demonstrates its performance. Overall, not bad. True, it is difficult to say for which bearings and what loads this option is designed for, it is difficult to say, but it will cope with small ones for sure.
That's it, below the video of the process.